| How to End a Chess Game Posted: 22 Apr 2021 05:00 PM PDT Reaching the endgame in chess can be really tense as you try to outsmart your opponent. Whether you're a beginner or an experienced player, it's important to know the ways you can finish a match if you're winning or losing. We'll cover a few different patterns you can use to beat the other player, and then go over some other possible endings you might encounter! Note: Some of these steps assume your opponent's moves based on known chess strategies. Your opponent might play differently, so you may have to adapt your strategy. [Edit]Checkmate - Threaten your opponent's king so it can't move to win. Putting a king in checkmate automatically ends the game, so make it your goal for the entire match. Position your pieces so they're attacking your opponent's king, which puts them in check. Once your opponent is in check, they have to either move their king, move another piece to protect their king, or capture the piece you're attacking with. If they aren't able to move into a safe place on the board, then you've put them in checkmate.[1]
- The positions and pieces you use to put your opponent in checkmate vary depending on the plays you made in your early and mid-game.
[Edit]Back Rank Mate - Attack the king in the back row with your rook if it's trapped behind pawns. If your opponent hasn't freed up any of the spaces in front of their king, try to move one of your rooks into your opponent's back row. If all of the spaces between your rook and their king are empty, you can automatically declare checkmate and win against them.[2]
- For example, if your opponent has their king on the space e8 and has pawns on d7, e7, and f7, you can move your rook to a8, b8, g8, or h8 to win.
- You can also win by moving one rook to their back row and your other rook to the row in front of it. That way, they won't be able to move their king without it getting attacked on the next turn.
[Edit]Arabian Mate - Pin the king in a corner with your rook and knight. The checkmate only works if your opponent moves their king into the corner and you have a knight 2 spaces away diagonally from them. Position your rook in one of the spaces right next to your opponent's king to put them in check. Your opponent will want to capture the rook to protect itself, but they won't be able to since you could capture them with your knight on the next turn.[3]
- For example, you trigger an Arabian Mate if your opponent has a king in h8, and you have a knight at f6 and a rook at either h7 or g8.
- This strategy works for either player and it doesn't matter which corner they move the king to.
[Edit]Smothered Mate - Use a knight to capture a king surrounded by its own pieces. Knights can jump over any pieces, so it's really easy to sneak up and attack the other player's king. This only works if the king can't move into an empty square next to it, so it has to be completely surrounded by its own pieces or stuck along the edge of the board. Move your knight into a space that's next to the surrounding pieces where it could jump to the king's space on the next turn. If they can't attack your knight with another piece, then you've won the game![4]
- For example, if your opponent has a king in h8, a rook in g8, and pawns in g7 and h7, you can move your night to f7 to avoid attack and put your opponent in checkmate.
- Be cautious when setting up a Smothered Mate so your opponent can't capture your knight. Otherwise, you may lose it and play the rest of the game disadvantaged.
[Edit]Two Pawn Mate - Defeat your opponent with 2 of your pawns and your king. This ending only works if your opponent's king is stuck in the back row. Position one of your pawns in front of your opponent's king. Put another pawn in a square diagonally behind the first one to keep your piece protected. Finally, move your king behind the first pawn so it can capture the 2 squares diagonally in front of it. Your opponent won't be able to move and you'll win![5]
- For example, if your opponent had their king on e8, you would position your first pawn on e7, the second pawn on d6, and your king on e6 to force a checkmate.
[Edit]Fool's Mate - Win quickly as black with only 2 moves. On the opening turn, if white advances a pawn to f4, move the pawn in front of your king to e6 so you can free up your queen and bishop. If you're playing against someone inexperienced, they may move a pawn to g4 on their next turn. If they do, move your queen diagonally to h4. Since you could capture their king on the next turn and they can't make any moves to protect it, you'll checkmate them and win.[6]
- Experienced chess players usually won't fall for a Fool's Mate since they'll tend to move the pawn at e2 so the king can escape.
- Fool's mate may also work if you're playing white, but it takes 3 turns instead of 2. Open with a pawn to e4. If your opponent moves their pawn to f6, then advance a pawn to d4. If the black player makes a mistake by moving a pawn to g5, then move your king to h5 for a checkmate.[7]
[Edit]Scholar's Mate - Declare victory in 4 moves as white with this beginner pattern. On your opening turn, advance the pawn in front of your king to e4. If your opponent matches your play by moving a pawn to e5, bring your queen out to h5. Your opponent will usually move a knight c6. If they do, slide your king's bishop to c4. If your opponent then moves their other knight to f6, capture the pawn on f7 with your queen to declare checkmate.[8]
- This is one the most basic chess openings and a quick way to win a game.
- Even though the king could capture your queen, you'd be able to immediately capture it next turn with your bishop.
[Edit]Legal's Mate - Sacrifice your queen early on to trap your opponent with your knights. Open the game by moving a pawn to e4. When your opponent moves a pawn to e5, push your knight forward to f3. Your opponent will usually mirror your play and move a knight to c6. Slide your bishop to c4. If they move a pawn to d6, move your other knight to c3. When your opponent moves a bishop to g4, move a pawn to h3. Your opponent will typically move their bishop to h5. Then, move your knight to e5. Let your opponent capture your queen so you can move your bishop to f7 and force a check. Your opponent must move their king to e7, but you can force a checkmate by putting your second knight on d5.[9]
- You can only use Legal's Mate if you're playing as white.
[Edit]Stalemate - Call a stalemate if a player isn't in check but can't make a move. Your opponent can only legally move their king into a space where it can't be captured on the next turn. If you position pieces so their king has no legal moves but they aren't directly put in check, the game immediately ends in a stalemate. Since stalemates are considered ties, you won't be declared the winner even if you can still make a legal move with your pieces.[10]
[Edit]Insufficient Material Draw - End with no winner if you don't have the pieces to force a checkmate. You'll typically win if you end with more pieces on the board than your opponent, but some piece combinations can't force a checkmate. For example, if you and your opponent only have your kings left, neither of you can win and it immediately ends the game in a draw. There also isn't a way you can win if you only have your king and a knight or bishop against a king, or if you have 2 knights.[11]
- The only way you can win a game with insufficient pieces is if your opponent makes a mistake or allows their piece to be put into check.
- You might also reach a draw with insufficient material if you and your opponent both have a king and a minor piece (a knight or bishop).
[Edit]50-Move Draw - Claim a draw if no one captures or moves pawns for 50 moves. To avoid long or drawn-out games, you can only make 50 moves without capturing another piece or advancing one of your pawns. As you're moving your pieces in the endgame, count how many turns pass between either of those movements. Once you reach 50 turns, the game immediately ends in a draw and there isn't a winner.[12]
[Edit]Threefold-Repetition Draw - Finish in a draw if you repeat the same board position 3 times. Games could go on for an indefinite amount of time if you keep repeating the same moves and positions of your pieces. If either you or your opponent takes moves that leave the board in the same position for the third time, either of you can claim a draw and end the game without a winner.[13]
- This stops players from moving the same piece back and forth to draw out the game longer than it needs to be.
[Edit]Resignation - Choose to resign if you think you're going to get checkmated. Sometimes, you can see when your opponent outsmarts you early on in the game and you won't be able to win or recover. Double-check all of your possible moves and make sure there aren't any ways that you're able to come back and win. If you think your opponent has you beat and they're confident about it, tip over your king and resign the game so you don't draw it out.[14]
- Many players resign once they realize they're at a disadvantage so they don't draw out the game any longer than it needs to. That way, you aren't wasting time playing a game you know that you're going to lose.
- Don't choose to resign too late or early just because your opponent seems impatient or too tough. If you're still interested in the game and think you might have a chance, keep playing so you can improve your skills and learn more about the game.
[Edit]Timeout - You'll automatically lose if you run out of time in a competitive match. In competitive matches, you only have a certain amount of time to play the entire game so you don't keep your opponent waiting. If you run out of time on the game clock, you forfeit the game. Your opponent automatically wins if they have the pieces that could force a checkmate.[15]
- You don't have to worry about timing out if you're just playing a casual game with friends.
- If your opponent doesn't have enough pieces, like if they only have their king, then they wouldn't be able to force a checkmate and the game ends in a draw instead.
- Keep playing games of chess with a variety of players so you can continue practicing and building your skills.[16]
- Work on getting your pawns to the other side of the board. That way, you can promote them to queens and get better control of the board.[17]
[Edit]Warnings - Watch out for threats from your opponent while you're playing since they may try tricking you into taking a piece so they can take the advantage next turn.[18]
[Edit]Related wikiHows [Edit]References |
| How to Grow Philodendron from Cuttings Posted: 22 Apr 2021 09:00 AM PDT Philodendron make great houseplants because they thrive in normal indoor conditions away from direct sunlight. If you want to add a philodendron to your inside vegetation, you don't necessarily need to buy a plant from a garden center — you can grow your own from the cuttings of a mature plant.[1] While some philodendron varieties must be grown from seed, many popular houseplant varieties, including the heart-leaf and fiddle-leaf philodendron, are relatively easy to grow from cuttings.[2] [Edit]Taking Your Cuttings - Choose a mature, healthy plant to take your cuttings in the spring. Start propagating philodendron in early spring (March in the Northern Hemisphere) when the days are beginning to get longer. Identify old growth in a mature plant — the tougher, woodier stems towards the base of the plant rather than the springy new growth at the top and ends of the plant. You'll be taking your cuttings from this old growth.[3]
- If you try to propagate your philodendron in the fall or winter, it may be spring before the plant starts rooting. In the meantime, your cutting will likely rot.
- Find the nodes where the leaf attaches to the main stem. A healthy plant will have many nodes. Your cutting will grow roots from the node. Typically, a philodendron cutting is either an internodal cutting or a leaf-bud cutting.[4]
- Internodal cuttings work for hanging or vining plants. Look for a cluster of nodes so you can cut between them.
- For a leaf-bud cutting, look for a single node off by itself on the main stem. That will make it easier to take your cutting without causing too much damage to the original plant.
- Cut the stem between 2 nodes for most philodendron varieties. Internodal cuttings work best for upright philodendron varieties, including the Green Congo, Rojo Congo, Super Atom, and Moonlight varieties. To make an internodal cutting, use a sharp, clean knife (or pruners) to slice between 2 nodes, taking one of them off for your cutting and leaving the other intact. Cut horizontally or vertically, depending on how the node is sitting on the stem. You don't want to cut into the node.[5]
- Snip just below the node, taking care to leave as little stem as possible under the node. The roots grow from the node, so if there's a lot of stem left under the node, it will just rot off.
- Use a leaf-bud cutting for crawling varieties of philodendron. With a leaf-bud cutting, the leaf and bud are the focus of your cutting rather than the nodes. This type of cutting works best for varieties such as fiddle-leaf, heart-leaf, and Brandi philodendron. To make a leaf-bud cutting, take your knife and cut in a semi-circle around the node on one side of the stem.[6]
- If you cut properly, the stem will come to a point at the top and bottom on either side of the node. Cut around the node, taking care not to cut too deeply into the stem of the original plant. If you take too much from the original plant it will be difficult for it to heal, so leave as much as possible of the original stem intact.
- Take multiple cuttings that are long if possible. If you only have one mature philodendron plant, you may not be able to take more than one cutting without taking too much from the original plant. However, if possible, multiple cuttings give you a better chance that at least one of them will root.[7]
- Avoid cutting your original plant back to a single stem. Leave enough of the plant intact that it can heal and continue to grow.
- Take care not to take any new, bright green growth. It will be less likely to root.
- Snip off any lower leaves and stems on the cutting. Cut leaves closely and carefully, taking care not to damage the main stem. Leave at least 3 or 4 leaves at the top of the cutting.[8]
- The part of the cutting that you submerge in your propagation medium should be free from leaves and stems, which will rot.
[Edit]Rooting the Cuttings - Mix Perlite into potting soil to make the propagation medium. Perlite, vermiculite, orchid bark, and even sand will ensure that your propagation medium is light and loose enough to provide enough support while also allowing for drainage. You can also buy commercial propagation mediums at your local gardening center that have similar properties. However, evaluate the components of the medium carefully. Many commercial potting mediums are too heavy to propagate philodendron.[9]
- If you want to give your philodendron a boost, you might try adding rooting hormone, which you can find at your local gardening center. However, philodendron typically root just fine without it.[10]
- Fill a nursery tray or similar-sized container with propagation medium. Propagate each cutting in a separate container. Add the propagation medium loosely, ensuring that air and water can easily pass through it. Leave about of space between the top of your medium and the rim of the container so you can move the medium around when you introduce your cutting.[11]
- Use a container with drainage holes. You can place a piece of mesh, a paper towel, or a coffee filter over the drainage holes to prevent soil from escaping. The container will still drain excess water properly.
- Moisten the propagation medium thoroughly with tap water. Add the water gradually to layers of your propagation medium, working it through the medium with your hands. Make sure the entire propagation medium is thoroughly moistened.[12]
- The medium should be damp to the touch but not so wet that you can squeeze water out of it. Make sure it's consistently moist without any dry spots.
- Insert the cutting deeply into the medium. Center the cutting in your tray and insert it into your propagation medium until the node is completely covered. Move your medium around the cutting to help stabilize it so it won't fall over in the tray. If you've made a leaf-bud cutting, ensure that only the leaf is visible above the surface of the propagation medium.[13]
- Add more medium as necessary to stabilize the stem if you have a longer cutting. Your cutting should be able to stand up straight in the tray.
- Cover the propagation trays with plastic to maintain humidity. Before your cuttings root, they have no way of replacing the moisture they lose. Keeping plastic over the propagation trays helps hold in the moisture.[14]
- Poke holes in the plastic so air can continue to flow through it.
- If you used individual containers instead of nursery trays, you can cover them with plastic sheeting or even an old plastic grocery bag. Make sure air can flow through the plastic.
- Set your cuttings in indirect sunlight with a day temperature of at least . Philodendron make good houseplants because they tolerate temperatures similar to the normal household environment. However, when you're propagating cuttings, make sure the temperature is slightly warmer. A temperature of around is ideal.[15]
- Direct sunlight can burn the leaves and impede rooting. Make sure your cuttings are protected from direct sunlight while they're rooting.
- Tug on your cuttings after 4 weeks to check for rooting. In the spring and summer, philodendron typically root in about 4 weeks. Grasp the plant close to the soil line and give it a short, gentle tug. If you feel resistance, that means your cuttings have started to grow roots.[16]
- Generally, you want roots that are long and have started to form into a ball. If you start propagating in spring, your new philodendron should be ready to transplant in 4 to 6 weeks.
- New plant growth above soil level is a clear indication that your cuttings have rooted.
[Edit]Transplanting Your Philodendron - Choose a planter larger than the root ball. Generally, philodendron plants grow best in a slightly cramped potting environment. If you already have a mature philodendron, you'll have a good idea of how big the planter should be.[17]
- Use a pot with drainage holes to ensure that your potting medium drains properly. Philodendron plants need moist, well-drained soil.
- Water your philodendron the day before transplanting it. Check the dampness of the propagation medium. If it feels dry to the touch, add water to dampen the medium, but be careful not to water your philodendron too much.[18]
- Watering your philodendron the day before you transplant it will reduce the stress on the plant and help make the transition easier.
- Moisten your potting medium with tap water. A lightweight potting medium ensures your philodendron doesn't become water-logged. Moisten the potting medium slowly, turning it over in your hands or with a trowel to ensure it's all evenly damp. It should be moist enough to stick together, but not so moist that you can squeeze water out of it.[19]
- Any quality potting soil works for philodendron as long as it drains well. You can also mix in Perlite or peat moss.[20]
- Fill the planter with potting medium up to from the rim. The actual depth of your soil will depend on the size of your planter. However, the root ball of your philodendron should be about below the rim of the planter. This ensures that the plant will grow at the correct level over the planter.[21]
- Don't tamp the potting medium down or press it into the pot. There needs to be enough space in the soil for air and water to get through.
- Pull your philodendron gently out of the propagation medium. Grasp your philodendron at the base of the stem just above the surface of the propagation medium. Work it from side to side to free the roots and pull the entire plant out.[22]
- Once your philodendron is out of the propagation medium, open up and gently separate the roots in the root ball. This will encourage new growth when your philodendron is replanted.
- Place your philodendron's root ball on top of the potting medium. Set your philodendron gently on top of the potting medium you've put in the bottom of the planter. Be careful not to push it down into the potting medium or crush the roots.[23]
- Gently twist the philodendron so that it will sit up straight in the planter and grow in the direction you want it to. If your philodendron is too top-heavy, you might want to hold onto it with one hand until you've filled the container.
- Fill the rest of the container with potting medium. Start to place small amounts of pre-moistened potting medium on top of and around the roots of your philodendron. Take care to fill in any open spaces between the roots.[24]
- Gently press each layer of potting medium into the roots to ensure there's good contact between the roots and the soil.
- Continue to fill your planter just up to the top, gently pressing down the potting medium in layers as you go.
[Edit]Warnings - Before you try to grow a philodendron from cuttings, find out what variety of philodendron it is. Self-heading philodendron (including the "Black Cardinal," "Imperial Green," and "Moonlight" philodendron) cannot be propagated from cuttings and must be grown from seed.[25]
- Philodendron are toxic to animals. If you have pets, keep your plants in a place where they can't get to the plant or its leaves.[26]
- While philodendron can root in water alone, this method of propagation is not recommended by horticulturists. When you root the plant in water, the delicate roots are often difficult to transplant in soil.[27]
[Edit]Things You'll Need - Sharp, clean knife or pruners
- Nursery trays or small pots
- Propagation medium (peat moss, Perlite, vermiculite)
- Rooting hormone (optional)
- Planters
- Potting medium
[Edit]References |
| How to Ship Food Posted: 22 Apr 2021 01:00 AM PDT Shipping food can be tricky, especially if you're sending something perishable, like refrigerated foods or baked goods. It's important to ship these foods out as quickly and efficiently as possible, or else they can start collecting bacteria.[1] While it may cost a bit of extra money, you only need a few simple packaging supplies to mail your food as quickly as possible. [Edit]Packaging Cold Foods - Select a large cardboard box that will fit your food. Estimate how much space your frozen or refrigerated food will take up. If you're preparing a large shipment, you'll need a large cardboard box to serve as the base for your package. If you're sending something smaller, like a mini container of ice cream, you may be able to use a smaller shipping box.[2]
- You can find cardboard boxes at most stores that sell mailing supplies. If you'd like to save on shipping costs, visit your local post office to see if you can use any specially priced boxes.
- Choose a sturdy styrofoam container that will insulate your cold food. Look for a styrofoam carton that fits snugly inside of your cardboard box, and is at least thick. Check that there's enough room in the carton for your refrigerated or frozen goods, along with space for your gel packs or dry ice.[3]
- Some companies sell insulated shipping boxes, which come with both a cardboard box and a styrofoam carton.
- Bag your food with plastic if it may melt or leak. Think about the type of food you're sending—if it's likely to melt over time during shipment, place the food in 2 secure plastic bags. Squeeze out any extra air from the first bag so it's airtight. Twist the top of the bag into a coil and fold it downwards, then secure it place with a rubber band. Repeat this process with a second bag so your food is completely secure[4]
- Any plastic bag works well for this.
- If you're shipping something extra fresh, like seafood, consider placing absorbent pads along the bottom of your container. This can protect your box from turning soggy.
- Place a liner bag in the center of the styrofoam carton. Purchase a large, rectangular plastic bag that "lines" the styrofoam layer of the box, which protects the package from leaks. Secure this into the box first so you can place your refrigerated or frozen food securely inside.[5]
- You can find liner bags online, or at a store selling mailing supplies.
- Add gel packs or dry ice so the food stays under . Layer dry ice packs around your container of chilled food. Always use gloves when handling dry ice or other cold packs so you don't get frostbite. Place another cold pack on top of the food so it stays completely chilled in transit.[6]
- You can purchase cold packs from any specialty store selling mailing supplies.
- Seal the package and wrap it with 2 layers of packing paper. Place a lid over the styrofoam carton and tape the cardboard box shut. As an extra precaution, wrap the entire box with 2 layers of brown mailing paper.[7]
- Write the recipient and your contact info on the box. Address the package to your desired recipient, and include your own name and return address on the package. Leave your phone number as well as the recipient's on the box, so a postal service worker can call one of you if something goes wrong with the package.[8]
- Tell the recipient to expect a package. Call, text, or email the person to let them know to expect a special delivery in a day or two. Remind them to open it and store the food right away, or else it may go bad.[9]
[Edit]Sending Baked Goods - Ship baked goods that aren't as likely to crumble. Choose a sturdy recipe that can take a potential beating in the mail, like cookies, unfrosted cupcakes, or brownies. Use caution when shipping anything really thin or delicate, as well as any desserts that need refrigeration.[10]
- For instance, it's better to mail an apple pie than a lemon meringue pie.
- Support your food to keep it from crumbling. Wrap your food with foil or plastic wrap to keep it as fresh as possible. If you're shipping brownies or bars, secure a sheet of wax paper between each tier so the baked goods don't stick together.[11]
- Store your food in an airtight container or package. Place your dessert in a secure box or container. Check that all the air is pushed out of the container so your baked goods don't go stale in transit.[12]
- Reusable plastic containers can work for this, or a box or tin.
- Seal and label the package as you normally would. Close off the package with packing tape, then add a mailing label to the top of the box. Write out your return address as well as the recipient's address so the post office knows where the package needs to go.[13]As an extra precaution, write "Perishable" on the side of the box so the postal service employees and your recipient know that something delicate is inside.[14]
[Edit]Choosing a Delivery Time - Send out your food early in the week so it ships quickly. Try to ship your food on Monday or Tuesday, so the box doesn't get stuck in a post office over the weekend. Avoid sending your shipment on Friday or Saturday, or your food may end up spoiling.[15]
- Aim for your package to arrive at its destination within 30 hours. Select the fastest mailing option your post office provides so your food gets to the recipient ASAP. Keep in mind that this may be a bit pricey, but it's a necessity when shipping perishable foods, especially refrigerated or frozen ones.[16]
- Frozen or refrigerated food needs to stay under . If it thaws out too much, it'll start to spoil.
- Add a tracking number to your package so you can keep track of it. Ask a post office employee if they can give you a tracking number for the package. Input this number on the post office's website to monitor where your package is, so you can make sure it reaches its destination within 30 hours.[17]
[Edit]Warning - Cold shipping can get a bit pricey depending on the supplies that you use. If you can, deliver the food in person.
[Edit]Things You'll Need [Edit]Packaging Cold Foods - Cardboard box
- Styrofoam carton
- Gel packs or dry ice
- Plastic bags
- Brown mailing paper
- Mailing label
- Marker
- Absorbent pads (optional)
[Edit]Sending Baked Goods - Cardboard box
- Airtight container
- Aluminum foil
- Plastic wrap
- Wax paper
[Edit]References |
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