| How to Clean Slot Car Track Rails Posted: 07 Jan 2021 04:00 PM PST Slot car racing is an exciting hobby, but your need for speed may be left unfulfilled if you haven't cleaned your rails in a while. The rails transfer electricity to the cars and hold them in place, so the cleaner they are, the faster and smoother your cars will be. A simple wipe down is usually more than enough to keep your tracks clean, but if the cars keep stalling or sliding off the track, the rails may be corroded. Don't worry, you can get rid of corrosion, too! [Edit]Quick Cleaning - Dampen a clean cloth with warm water for a basic cleaning. There are special track cleaners out there, but water works just fine for everyday cleaning. Grab a clean bar rag or microfiber cloth and get it damp. Wring out any excess water—you don't need a lot of moisture for this.[1]
- Wipe down the rails once a week if you keep your tracks set up permanently. If you keep the tracks stored in a box, clean them whenever you take them out.[2]
- Use braid conditioner instead of water for the smoothest ride possible. If you're serious about your speed, invest in a special conditioner to increase the conductivity of the braids. The braids are the metal threads that stick out of the slot car and rest on the rails. When you turn the car on, the electrical current from the rail flows through the braids and makes the car move.[3]
- You can buy braid conditioner online or at hobby shops that sell model railroad materials.
- If you're an avid slot car enthusiast or interested in competitive racing, go for the braid conditioner. The minor advantage over water will be worth it.
- Run the dampened cloth over the track in a smooth, even motion. Hold the damp portion of the cloth downward and drag it across the surface of the track in the direction that the cars travel. Work your way all the way around the track to lift up any surface dirt and dust that's resting on your rails.[4]
- You can start on any portion of the track. Each track length is identical, so it doesn't matter where you begin so long as you cover the entire course.
- If your track is disassembled, just clean each track length individually.
- Reload the cloth and wipe the tracks down another 2-3 times. After you've given the tracks a nice surface wipe, reload your cloth with more water or braid conditioner. Give the tracks an additional 2-3 wipe-downs to make sure you're getting everything off of the rails.[5]
- You don't need to push down super hard or anything. A gentle wipe will do the trick.
- Dry the track by hand with a clean microfiber cloth to prevent rust. Grab a fresh microfiber cloth and fold it up a few times. Drag it around the track in the same direction that you wiped it down. Work the cloth around the track repeatedly to soak up all of the moisture.[6]
- Hit the rails with a few bursts of canned air to speed the drying process up.
- Drive a slot car around the track a few times to clean inside the rails. You can't reach inside of the rails, but you know what can? Your slot cars! Set any slot car down and insert the push pin under the car into the rail. Turn it on and drive it around the track 3-5 times to clean the interior gap between the rails out. When you're done, take the slot car off the track and wipe off the push pin to get rid of any gunk it picked up from the track.[7]
- If your cars were stalling before and continue to stall after you wipe down the tracks, your rails are probably corroded. You may not be able to see any corrosion since the rails are so small, but it's definitely there if your cars are stalling or sliding.
[Edit]Corrosion Removal - Grab a fine drywall sponge to restore your rails. Head to the construction supply store and pick up a drywall sanding sponge. Anything 120-grit or higher will work for this. The sponge gently wears away the corroded metal without damaging the healthy portions of the rails.[8]
- If you can't buy a drywall sponge, a rubber eraser will also work.[9]
- Do not use sandpaper or steel wool for this. They're too hard and microscopic shards of steel wool or sandpaper can get stuck in the tracks.[10]
- Rub the drywall sponge back and forth along each portion of the rail. Lay the sponge flat on the track and apply a light amount of pressure as you drag it back and forth a few times over the same area. Then, move to the next section of the track and do the same thing. Work your way around the entire track to remove the corrosion.[11]
- Don't worry about damaging the flat portions of your track. They're designed to handle a fair bit of abrasion.
- Blow compressed air between the rails to remove residue. Insert the straw that came with the compressed air into the nozzle. Hold the nozzle over the rails at a 45-degree angle and pull the trigger. Drag the can all the way around the track to blow out all of the corrosive junk.[12]
- This gets rid of any corrosive particles that fell in between the rails.
- Drive a slot car around the track 5 times to see if it's smooth. Grab a clean slot car and insert it in the track. Turn it on and drive it around the track a few times. If it stalls or catches on a portion of the railing, push it forward and see if the problem repeats itself. If it doesn't, the pin on your car pushed the blockage out.[13]
- If the car stalls at the same spot every time, it's a sign you still have corrosion in that area. Rub the sponge over that section another 4-5 times, blow it out, and try again.
- Wipe the car's push pin off when you're done to remove any debris it picked up from the track.
- Wipe the track down with a dry cloth to pick up any remaining dust. Once the corrosion is gone and your track is running smoothly, run a dry cloth around the track. Wipe in the same direction that the cars travel. This picks up any corrosive junk or dust on the flatter portion of the track.[14]
- A microfiber cloth is perfect for this since the tiny fibers will absorb microscopic residue on the tiny rails.
- You can do a final wipe down with a damp rag soaked in mineral spirits if you'd like, but this is controversial in the slot car community. Some slot car racers believe it isn't worth it since dust can be attracted to the spirits and build up on the tracks.
- The connections between tracks are sensitive. You only need to clean them if the cars are slowing down when they pass over them. Use a damp rag to wipe them down. A car slowing down on a connection may indicate a poor electrical current. Double-check the rails to make sure they're touching before taking the tracks apart for a cleaning.[15]
- If you need to restore old, rusty tracks, submerge them in Coca-Cola. Let them soak for 10 hours and then rinse them off and hand dry them. Use a hair dryer to evaporate any hard-to-reach moisture. It sounds crazy, but it works![16]
- If the rails are damaged or the corrosion can't be removed manually, you may not be able to restore it. Sometimes, tracks need just need to be replaced![17]
[Edit]Warnings - There's a ton of debate in the slot car community over whether WD-40 is a good option for cleaning tracks. Unfortunately, WD-40 builds up inside of the rails over time. While it may increase performance in the short term, it will eventually reduce the overall speed of your track.[18]
[Edit]Things You'll Need [Edit]Quick Cleaning - Water or braid conditioner
- Cloth
- Microfiber cloth
- Canned air (optional)
[Edit]Corrosion - Drywall sponge
- Canned air
- Cloth
- Mineral spirits (optional)
[Edit]References |
| How to Give Plants Iron Posted: 07 Jan 2021 08:00 AM PST If your plants are low in iron, you may notice that the leaves start to take on a yellow, spidery look. Luckily, there are a number of different ways to treat this, depending on the severity of the problem. For a temporary way to treat smaller plants and shrubs, you can spray iron directly on the leaves. If you'd prefer to treat the soil, you can use chelated iron for an inexpensive fix, or ferrous sulfate for a longer-lasting treatment. [Edit]Spraying the Leaves - Buy a chelated iron spray or make your own solution. Chelated iron sprays are available at most well-stocked garden centers and home stores. However, if you'd like to make your own inexpensive version, you can dissolve of ferrous sulfate in of water. This will create a 0.5% solution, which is safe to apply to plants. Pour it into a pump sprayer, like the kind you'd use to spray liquid fertilizer or insecticide.[1]
- If you buy a commercial product, be sure to carefully follow the application instructions on the label.
- If you're making your own spray, choose ferrous sulfate that is 20-22% iron.
- Try adding 2-3 drops of dishwashing soap for every of either commercial or homemade spray. This will help the spray adhere to the plant's leaves.
- Do this treatment during the spring or summer so it will be effective. In order for an iron spray to improve your plant's health, you have to use it during the growing season. You can spray new growth starting in the early spring, all the way through full foliage in the late summer.
- Once the fall hits, the plant will start to become dormant, and it will remain dormant through the winter. During this time, the iron won't have much effect, even if the plant retains its leaves through the winter.[2]
- Choose an evening or cool day so you don't burn the leaves. If you apply chelated iron to the plant's leaves at mid-day when it's hot out, you could burn the plant's foliage. Instead, wait for a cool, cloudy day to spray the iron. If the weather is warm and isn't forecast to cool down anytime soon, wait until the evening, when it should be a little cooler out.[3]
- If the iron burns the leaves, the edges will start to curl and turn brown.
- Coat the leaves of the plant generously with the mixture. If only part of the plant seems affected, focus mostly on that area. However, since this is a mild treatment, it's okay if some of the spray gets on leaves that aren't showing signs of iron deficiency.[4]
- It's fine if some of the spray gets onto the ground around the plants. However, since the solution isn't strong, it's not likely to have much of an effect on the iron content of the soil.
- You'll likely notice results in just a few days.
- Repeat the treatment in a week or two if you need it. Iron sprays are just a temporary fix for your plants. The yellowing might improve after a few days, but if you notice it returning, or if new leaf growth looks yellow, you'll need to spray the plants again.
- Even though this isn't a long-lasting fix, it can help keep your plant healthy while you work to improve the soil.
[Edit]Treating the Soil with Chelated Iron - Purchase powdered or granular chelated iron. You'll need about of iron fertilizer for every of soil you're treating. Just be sure the chelate you choose contains FeEDDHA. Other options won't be as effective, especially in soils with an elevated pH level.[5]
- Both powdered and granulated iron will be easy to mix into the soil, and they'll be readily absorbed by the plants. You can find chelated iron at many big box stores, lawn and garden stores, or online.
- Make sure the label indicates that all of the iron in the supplement is chelated. Some iron supplements will say "chelated" on the label even some of the iron is in a different form.[6]
- Also, if the supplement you're using contains a fertilizer, be sure it doesn't have phosphorus in it. Too much phosphorus in the soil can contribute to iron deficiency.[7]
- Apply the treatment in the fall or the spring. It's best to either treat the soil in the spring, right at the start of the growing season. However, you can also use chelated iron in the fall just before the plant goes dormant. In the spring, the plant will be pulling nutrients from the soil as it prepares to bud. If you apply it in the fall, the iron will be able to gradually absorb into the plant's roots throughout the winter.[8]
- Either way, you'll probably have to reapply the treatment once a year, so just pick the time of year that will be most convenient for you every year.
- Sprinkle the iron around the roots of the plants, then water them. Following the application instructions on the container, simply shake the chelated iron directly around the base of each of the plants you need to treat. Then, water the ground thoroughly.[9]
- If you'd prefer, you can also dissolve the iron in water, then spray that around the base of the plant.
- This is a good option for treating shrubs, smaller gardens, or individual trees, but since chelated iron can be expensive, it's not ideal for treating larger areas.
- Repeat the treatment once a year or as needed. Treating the soil with chelated iron will usually help correct and prevent iron deficiency for about a year. However, if you treat the plant in the spring and it's still showing symptoms, you may need to treat the plant again later in the growing season.[10]
[Edit]Adding Ferrous Sulfate to the Soil - Mix equal parts elemental sulfur and ferrous (iron) sulfate. Purchase both of these ingredients from a lawn and garden store. Then, pour an equal measure of each into a large bucket or bin.[11]
- Don't mix these ingredients in any pots or bowls that you plan to prepare food in later on.
- Read the label to make sure you're choosing a ferrous sulfate product that contains a high concentration of iron.
- Wear gloves and eye protection when you're working with iron sulfate. Also, work in a ventilated area, and consider wearing a respirator if you'll be working with large amounts.[12]
- Dig a trench around the plant's base if you're treating a shrub. For larger shrubs, measure about away from the base of the plant. Then, use a handheld hoe to dig a hole about deep, going all the way around the base of the plant.
- Be sure not to dig so deep that you damage the plant's roots.[13]
- Check with your local utility companies before you dig in an area that might have utility lines.
- Dig holes along the crown line if you're treating a tree. The crown line, also known as the drip line, is where the outer edge of the plant's leaves stop. Use an augur to make holes that are wide and about deep. Space the holes about apart. The amount of holes you'll need depends on the diameter of the plant's trunk:[14]
- 4 holes for a diameter
- 6 holes for a diameter
- 8 holes for a diameter
- 12 holes for a diameter
- 16-24 holes for an diameter
- 25-30 holes for a diameter
- 30-40 holes for a diameter
- 40-50 holes for a diameter
- Fill the holes or trench with the ferrous sulfate mixture. If you dug holes to treat a tree, pour in enough of iron to fill the hole up to about from the top If you dug a trench, pour of ferrous sulfate into the bottom.[15]
- Be careful not to get the iron on your skin or in your eyes, and avoid breathing it in.
- Top the holes or trench with the remaining dirt. If you dug holes, fill in the last with some of the dirt that you removed. If you dug a trench, loosely pack it all the way up to the top with the dirt. If you'd like, you can then water the area.[16]
- If you used an augur to make your holes, it should have removed the dirt, rather than just compacting it. That will ensure you have the excess soil you need to fill the holes back in.
- This treatment will typically last up to 2-4 years, so you shouldn't have to repeat the treatment until the next time the plant shows symptoms.
- If your plants are iron deficient, the leaves will turn yellow with dark green veins, giving them a spidery look. If the iron deficiency isn't treated, the leaves might then start to turn white and die.[17]
- If you're not sure if your plants are iron deficient, test the pH of your soil. If the pH is above 7.0-7.5, it's likely that you have an iron deficiency. For more thorough soil testing, check with your local agricultural extension center.[18]
- Iron deficiency might show on the whole plant, a single branch, or even just a few leaves.[19]
- If you have a large tree that needs to be treated, contact an arborist about injecting the tree with iron.[20]
[Edit]Warnings - Overwatering your plants can cause iron deficiency or make it worse.[21]
- When you're working with iron supplements, be careful not to spill it on your sidewalks or other surfaces, as it could leave a stain. [22]
- Some folk remedies recommend burying scrap iron under a tree to fix an iron deficiency. However, it's not a good idea to bury sharp, rusted metal in your lawn.[23]
- If you'll be working with iron (ferrous) sulfate or chelated iron, wear gloves and safety goggles, and work in a ventilated area or wear a respirator. If either of these substances gets into your eyes, flush them with water for at least 15 minutes. If they get on your skin, wash it thoroughly with water. [24]
[Edit]References |
| How to Finish Diamond Art Posted: 07 Jan 2021 12:00 AM PST If you've just finished a diamond painting and want to make it last, then finishing and sealing the painting is your best option. Applying sealer to the painting is optional, but it helps lock the crystals in place so you can frame or hang your creation. Even better, finishing a diamond painting is easy! You have a choice between brush-on and spray-on sealer—both will keep your painting shiny and secure for years to come. [Edit]Before You Apply Sealer - Confirm that all of the diamonds are in the right spot. Once you seal the painting, you won't be able to move any of the diamonds anymore. Check the painting carefully and make sure all the diamonds are in the right spot. This way, the painting will be perfect when you seal it.[1]
- If any diamonds are in the wrong spot, simply pull them up with a pair of tweezers and place them in the right spot. Be careful not to disturb any of the surrounding diamonds.[2]
- If only 1 or 2 diamonds are in the wrong spot, some pros recommend ignoring them. They probably won't even be noticeable when the painting is done.
- Press all of the diamonds down with a roller. If the diamonds aren't all completely flat, you'll get an uneven finish. First place the painting face-up on a flat, solid surface. Then use the roller that comes with most diamond painting kits and roll it over the entire painting. This should press all the diamonds into place.[3]
- You can get a roller from an arts store if you don't have one.
- If you don't have a roller, you could also pile some books onto the painting overnight. This presses the diamonds down evenly.[4]
- Pick any hair or lint off the painting. If any hair or lint gets stuck under the sealer, it could ruin the finish. Check the painting and pick out any hair or lint with a pair of tweezers. Be careful not to knock any of the diamonds out of place.[5]
- Especially check between the diamonds. Hair could be hiding in those spaces.
- If you have trouble seeing lint or hair on the painting, try using a magnifying glass to help.
- Wipe the painting with a cloth or toothbrush to remove dust. Be gentle and wipe the entire painting. This should get rid of any dust so it doesn't get trapped under the sealer.[6]
- Also try to get rid of any leftover wax or glue between the diamonds. Scrub a bit harder to remove this.
[Edit]Brush-on Sealer - Choose a waterproof paint sealer to protect the painting. You have a few choices for the type of sealer to use. Any type of clear varnish should work fine. You can easily find these online or at an arts store. Pick up a bottle to get started.[7]
- Some popular sealers include Mod Podge, Matisse, and Liquitex.[8]
- Some hobbyists also say that clear nail polish can work as well.
- You can also use a glossy or glittered finish for a more decorative approach. While all paint sealers will give your painting a bit of a shine, glittered types will really make the painting sparkle. Mod Podge makes a glittered finish.[9]
- Wet a paintbrush with sealer. Open the jar and dip in a normal paintbrush. Let the brush drip over the bottle for a few seconds, then wipe off any excess sealer on the edge of the bottle.[10]
- Any type of brush will work, but a wider one is best for getting a nice even finish.
- You could also pour some of the sealer into a plate instead. That way, you don't have to keep dipping the brush into the bottle.
- Apply an even layer of sealer onto the painting. Start in any spot and simply brush the sealer onto the painting. Spread the sealer around so it covers the entire painting with an even coat, and re-wet the brush as needed.[11]
- A thin coat is best, because using a thick coat will make the painting look more dull.
- Brush over each spot from at least 2 different directions. This way, the sealer will get between the diamonds for a better finish.[12]
- Sealers usually look white when they first go on. Don't worry, you didn't ruin the painting! They're designed to be completely clear when they dry.
- Let the sealer dry overnight. Place the painting on a flat surface where it won't be disturbed. Leave it overnight so the sealer dries fully and gives the painting a nice finish. After that, you can display your new painting however you want![13]
- The exact drying time might be different, depending on which sealer you use. Follow the instructions on the brand that you use.
[Edit]Spray-on Sealer - Get a spray-on paint sealer. These are similar to brush-on sealers, but come in a spray bottle instead. This is quicker and easier to apply. Look online or in a crafts store for a clear, spray-on paint sealer.[14]
- Mod Podge makes spray sealers, so this is a good product to start with.
- Some hobbyists say that while spray sealer is quick and easy to apply, it's not as durable as brush-on sealers. Keep that in mind if you want your painting to last a long time.
- Shake the bottle well before using it. Keep the bottle capped and give it a good shake. This should even out the spray and give you a nicer finish.[15]
- There may be other instructions for preparing the sealer, so always check before using it.
- Spray a thin, even layer all over the painting. Hold the bottle away from the painting. Spray in short bursts and move around the painting so none of the sealer pools. If the layer is too thick, the finish will look dull. Continue spraying until you've covered the painting with an even layer of sealer.[16]
- Keep the painting flat while you're spraying so none of the sealer drips.
- Let the sealer dry overnight. Once you're done, leave the painting on a flat surface. Let it dry overnight, then display it however you want to![17]
- The exact drying time might be different, depending on which sealer you use. Follow the instructions on the brand that you use.
[Edit]Things You'll Need - Tweezers
- Toothbrush
- Cloth
- Roller
- Brush-on or spray-on paint sealer
- Paintbrush (if using brush-on sealer)
- If you made a few diamond paintings, experiment and try a different sealer type on each one! That way, you'll be able to find your favorite one.
[Edit]Warnings - Don't touch the painting while it's still wet. You could leave a mark on the finish.
- Keep the painting flat until it's dry, no matter which sealer type you use. This should prevent any drips or streaks.
[Edit]References |
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