| How to Identify Water Hemlock Posted: 08 Feb 2017 04:00 PM PST Water Hemlock (Cicuta maculata) is an extremely poisonous herbaceous forb (broad-leaf plant) to both humans and animals, and is also native to North America. It is often and easily confused with other similar species found in the Carrot Family (Apiaceae). These other species will be mentioned and distinguished below. The following article will help you identify Water Hemlock by showing you the various characteristics of this species, and to differentiate this species from similar species that may be easily confused with this plant. EditIdentifying Water Hemlock - Do an image search on the Web for "Water Hemlock" or "Cicuta maculata". The latter name will give you the top results of what water hemlock looks like, and will help you understand what to look for when identifying this species.
- Take a look at the entire plant. Water hemlock grows to tall; stems are erect, stout, hollow mostly of the lower portion, occasionally branching, and mostly hairless. Leaves are below the flowers, and come from the base and along the stem. Roots are with thickened tuberous and chambered bases; a number of the true roots are also often thickened.
- Study the leaves. The leaves are the most important part of the plant to make a positive identification, and distinguishes itself from other species. As mentioned in the previous step, leaves are basal (come from the base), or cauline (grow up along the stem), and develop alternately along the stem.
- Leaves are two to three-times odd pinnate (pinnate = arranged like a long feather; odd = single leaf at top), with leaflets lanceolate-ovate to narrowly lanceolate. Each leaflet is around to long, and to about wide.[1] Leaflets are also coarsely toothed.
- Leaves themselves are around and about ; the longer leaves are found closer to the bottom of the plant. Each division typically contains 3 to 7 leaflets. [2]
- Lateral veins of the leaflets extend to the notches between the teeth instead of to the tips along the leaf margins. Few other plants in the family Apiaceae in North America have this characteristic.
- Look at the stems. Apart from what was already mentioned above, C. maculata typically has stems that is reddish-purple to purplish from the nodes. Some of this purplish colour extends down the stem or up from the base of the leaves. Stems also have a whitish film that can be rubbed off when touched.
- There may be some spotting seen on the stems, although inconspicuous; streaking of reddish purple is more obvious.
- Notice the roots and sap exuding from the cut stems and roots. As mentioned before, the roots are quite fleshy, tuberous and thickened, and the base is often bulbous. Cutting a cross-section of the root reveals that it's chambered and hollow.
- The sap that comes from cut stems and roots is oily and yellowish, and has a bit of a fowl odour; almost like that of mice or raw parsnip.
- Notice the flowering parts of the plant. The inflorescence is a compound umbel, and there should be about 1 to several per plant. The primary umbel (the largest inflorescence on the plant) will have 18 to 28 rays (with umbellets), and the secondary (smaller) umbels have 12 to 25 rays. Compound umbels are at most wide, and dome-shaped on top.
- Individual umbellets are comprised of 12 to 15 flowers clustered together.
- Each flower is whitish-green, with five small petals, and unequal to subequally symmetrical.
- Understand where you are most likely to find this plant. Water hemlock is native to North America, and common in moist to wet areas. This includes shores, along streams, in marshy/swampy areas (bogs, sloughs, fens, riparian areas, etc.), and in wet ditches.
- Use the steps from above to be able to distinguish Water Hemlock from other similar species. The next part below shows some species that are commonly confused with C. maculata, from those related to a couple completely unrelated to this species.
EditDistinguishing from Similar Species - Note the number of species that can be quite easily confused with Water Hemlock. There are surprisingly quite a few species, and most of these species are found in the Carrot Family (Apiaceae). These similar species, described more in the steps below, include:
- Angelicas (Angelica spp.)
- Cow Parsley (Anthriscus sylvestris)
- Caraway (Carum carvi)
- Bulbous Water Hemlock (Cicuta bulbifera)
- Poison Hemlock (Conium maculatum)
- Giant Hogweed (Heracleum mantegazzianum)
- Cow Parsnip (Heracleum maximum)
- Wild Carrot (Daucus carota)
- Red Elderberry (Sambucus racemosa)
- Water Parsnip (Sium suave)
- Western Hemlock (Tsuga heterophylla)
- Distinguish from Angelicas (Angelica spp.). There are over 180 recognized species of Angelicas in the world, and all fall under the same family as water hemlock. Most species are similar in leaf structure from each other. Exemplary species of mention are White Angelica (Angelica arguta) and Yellow Angelica (Angelica dawsonii).
 - A. arguta is probably one of the most likeliest of Angelica species to be confused with water hemlock, primarily because of the similarly-looking umbel. However, there are some very distinguishing features of white angelica; there is a large, conspicuous sheathing base at the base of each leaf, and the leaves themselves, while also pinnately-compound, are ovate-lanceolate (wider than water hemlock), and irregularly lobed. Leaflet-edges are also spiny-toothed.[3][4]
- A. dawsonii can be more easily distinguished by the yellow flowers, plus the conspicuous whorl of slashed or toothed bracts. The leaves, compared with white angelica, are slightly more finely toothed, more lanceolate (almost similar to C. maculata), and less irregularly-lobed.[5]
- Great or Purple Angelica (Angelica atropurpurea) is another species that may be thought of as being very similar in appearance to water hemlock; however the leaves tell a much different story; The leaves are actually what botanists call bipinnate. This means that there are double the pinnate leaves on a single leaf; rather, leaflets are divided into subleaflets, still keeping that pinnate shape from each leaf lobe. Water hemlock is "2 or 3 times pinnate" which means there is an additional one or two leaves in addition to the main leaflet that would normally make up a true pinnate (feather-shape) leaf.[6][7]
- Mature purple angelica are also predominantly purple (the stems), where water hemlock only has purple streaks running down from the nodes. It has the characteristic sheath found at the base of each leaf, and tends to grow much taller; to tall. Flowers are greenish-white to pale yellow.
- The vast majority of angelicas are non-poisonous, rather seen as medicinal plants. The only species that is known to be poisonous is Angelica lineariloba or Sierra Angelica. The best way to distinguish this plant is by its narrow, feathery leaves, conspicuous sheaths at the base of each leaf and petiole (from where flowers are borne), and that it prefers higher elevations and rocky soil in the Sierra Nevadas than wetland areas typical of water hemlock.[8]
- Distinguish from Cow Parsley (Anthriscus sylvestris). Another member of the Carrot Family, cow parsley can be distinguished from water hemlock by its noticeably finely-divided, fern-like leaves. With mature plants, the stalks are predominantly red to reddish-purple, unlike the reddish or purplish streaking from the nodes you find with water hemlock.
- Distinguish from Caraway (Carum carvi). Caraway is a cultivated plant of the carrot family, but can also grow wild as a weed. This species has leaves that are very finely divided, looking very similar to carrot leaves.
- Distinguish from Bulbous Water Hemlock (Cicuta bulbifera). Closely related to water hemlock not only by family, but genus as well, bulbous water hemlock can be distinguished by its much more feathery, linear leaflets, which are sparsely toothed. Upper leaves are smaller and simple, with small bulbs (bulblets) produced in their axils. This species is also poisonous.
- Distinguish from Poison Hemlock (Conium maculatum). All parts very poisonous. A European native that is easily confused with water hemlock simply by name. Because water hemlock is also poisonous, some people also call it "poison hemlock" even though this other similar species in the family Apiaceae carries that same common name! You will need to focus primarily on the distinguishing features that set these two species apart:
- C. maculatum is generally taller, has notable purplish splotches on the stems, sheaths or stipules that narrow into a point as it goes up the leaf stem. The leaves themselves are much more divided than Cicuta maculata; called "pinnately compound." This means that each leaf is made up of several leaflet pairs arranged on opposite sides of the main leaf stalk. Each leaflet is segmented and around 1⁄8 inches (0.32 cm) to 1⁄4 inches (0.64 cm) long.
- Distinguish from Giant Hogweed (Heracleum mantegazzianum). Giant hogweed is an introduced noxious weed from Asia, and one that grows to be much larger than water hemlock. It too is within the family Apiaceae, and actually can be more easily confused with cow parsnip (see below) than water hemlock due to size and leaf structure. H. mantegazzianum grows to over in ideal conditions. The first year it will produce vegetation, or continue to produce vegetation until 2 to 5 years later where it will produce flowers, then die afterwards. [9]
- Giant hogweed produces a single hollow stem that may be as wide as at the base. These stems also have purple blotches and stiff hairs arising from blisters or bumps that appear along the stem.
- The leaves of H. mantegazzianum are huge. They measure long and over wide. The leaves themselves are alternate, 3-part compound (or with 3 deeply cut leaflets), with deep irregular palmate lobes, and sharp, coarse teeth on all margins. Further up the stem in flowering plants the leaves are smaller but similar shape and often not divided but still deeply 3-lobed. Vegetative plants form rosettes of these huge leaves.[10]
- Flowers are also enormous, umbels measuring from to almost across. They are also white.
- This plant has serious toxic qualities that causes severe photodermatitis. Skin exposed to the plant's sap first, then the sun, will cause severe skin rashes, blisters, and possibly permanent scarring or discolouration.[11]
- Distinguish from Cow Parsnip (Heracleum lanatum). Cow parsnip is also rather large, and like water hemlock, native to North America. It does not get as tall as giant hogweed, only growing to tall. Stems are large and woolly-hairy. Leaves are 3-part compound, palmately compound, coarsely toothed, and almost heart-shaped. They are also quite large, long and wide. Leaflets are not as deeply divided as giant hogweed, but more ovate, and divided into 3 or 5 lobes, with broad acute tips.[12] Flowers are in large compound umbels, which are flat-topped, and white.
- Distinguish from Wild Carrot or Queen Anne's Lace (Daucus carota). This plant has hairy stems, and leaves that are lace-like, finely-dissected and hairy; the look much like garden carrot leaves. Roots are edible, whitish in colour, and look very much like a typical garden carrot. The umbel, when it dries and goes into seed, folds into itself into the shape of a bird's nest.
- Distinguish from Red Elderberry (Sambucus racemosa). The young shoots of this species can be easily confused with water hemlock. Red elderberry is a rather large shrub in its more mature form. But with young stalks, where the leaves of water hemlock are alternate, red elderberry is opposite. Elderberry leaves are more rounded (less lance-shaped), and are not with 2 or 3 extra leaflets on a several-times pinnate leaf. Leaf margins are also smoother.
- Distinguish from Water Parsnip (Sium suave). Probably the most-often mistaken species for water hemlock. Water parsnip is found in the same areas as water hemlock, and is also a native species to North America, but in order to differentiate this species from water hemlock, look carefully at the leaves. The leaves of water parsnip are only once pinnate, and usually with more narrow leaflets than water hemlock.
- Distinguish from Western Hemlock (Tsuga heterophylla). Western Hemlock looks nothing like water hemlock; in fact, it's a large coniferous tree (grows to tall) found in the West Coast from Oregon to British Columbia. It was named so because it has a similar smell to the European forb poison hemlock.
EditUnderstanding the Risks - Avoid ingesting the roots or sap. Water hemlock is most toxic when the roots are eaten or the sap is ingested. The oily sap contains a cicutoxin that affects the central nervous system, causing extremely violent convulsions and death from respiratory failure within a few hours. Small doses of this sap are lethal, and symptoms of poisoning occur rapidly within 15 to 30 minutes after ingestion.
- Keep your livestock safe. Livestock have been known to eat the leaves of water hemlock without significant adverse effects, however it is not recommended to go ahead and allow animals to graze on these plants when the risk of pulling up and eating the roots is quite high.
- Know that the results can be deadly. Rabies can be confused with ingestion of water hemlock due to the classic frothing at the mouth. This is followed by tremors, uneasiness, and severe pain in the abdominal area. Grinding of the teeth and clamping of the jaws often occur, with the tongue likely becoming lacerated as a result. These seizures may come in bouts, with relaxation periods in between where loss of muscle control and laboured breathing are experienced. Death soon follows by a matter of a few hours. Larger doses can kill a human or large bovine in a matter of minutes.
- Cicuta douglasii is a synonymous scientific name to Cicuta maculata, as is the common name Spotted Water Hemlock.
- Maculata = spotted, as the stems also have some spots or streaks coming from the nodes. Spotting is less conspicuous than with Poison Hemlock (Conium maculatum).
- Look for the leaves, and how they are distinctly toothed and doubly pinnate and leaflets almost lance-shaped. These are the most obvious and distinguishing characteristics that will help you make a positive ID of water hemlock.
- Water Hemlock is extremely poisonous. It is a very nasty plant that has been known to kill both humans and animals, no matter if it was intentionally or accidentally.
- Your biggest risk of fatality is if you come in contact with the sap. Touching the leaves or stems will not harm you; it's when the sap gets released that it becomes extremely dangerous.
- Take precautions when handling this plant, especially when handling and dissecting the roots. Use gloves with rubber finger and palms (or rubber gloves), and thoroughly wash your hands and arms, as well as clothing and tools after use.
- Do not allow any part of what was used to dissect the roots to come in contact with your eyes or mouth. Though poisoning is mostly through ingestion, your eyes are also a quick route for the poison to enter into your nervous system.
EditSources and Citations - Tannas, K. 2003. Common Plants of the Western Rangelands: Volume 2: Forbs. Alberta Agriculture, Edmonton, Alberta, Canada.
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| How to Do Basic First Aid Posted: 08 Feb 2017 08:00 AM PST Basic first aid refers to the initial process of assessing and addressing the needs of someone who has been injured or is in physiological distress due to choking, a heart attack, allergic reactions, drugs or other medical emergencies. Basic first aid allows you to quickly determine a person's physical condition and the correct course of treatment. You should always seek professional medical help as soon as you are able, but following correct first aid procedures can be the difference between life and death. Follow our entire tutorial, or find specific advice by checking out the sections listed above. EditPerforming the Three Cs - Check the surroundings. Evaluate the situation. Are there things that might put you at risk of harm? Are you or the victim threatened by fire, toxic smoke or gasses, an unstable building, live electrical wires or other dangerous scenario? Do not rush into a situation where you could end up as a victim yourself. This refers to the D (Danger) in DRABC (Danger, Response, Airways, Breathing and Circulation).[1]
- If approaching the victim will endanger your life, seek professional help immediately; they have higher levels of training and know how to handle these situations. First aid becomes useless if you can't safely perform it without hurting yourself.
- Call for help. Call out for help 3 times before you begin assisting the casualty. If someone is with you or approaches, instruct them to call the authorities and be prepared to relay information to them so they can update the responders. It is not recommended that you leave the casualty unless absolutely required, but put them in the recovery position if you need to leave them for any reason.[2]
- Care for the person. Caring for someone who has just gone through serious trauma includes both physical treatment and emotional support. Remember to stay calm and try to be reassuring; let the person know that help is on its way and that everything will be alright. Other ways to reassure the casualty include asking for their name, if they know what has happened, and then about their interests.
EditCaring for an Unconscious Person - Determine responsiveness. If a person is unconscious, try to rouse them by speaking to them; do not be afraid to speak up. If they do not respond to activity, sound, touch, or other stimulation, determine whether they are breathing.
- Check for breathing and a pulse.[3] If unconscious and unable to be roused, check for breathing: look for a rise in the chest area; listen for the sound of air coming in and out; feel for air using the side of your face. If no signs of breathing are apparent, place two fingers under the chin and gently guide the face pointing upwards to open up their airways. If any debris such as vomit can be seen, it is appropriate to move them onto their side to allow it to get out, which is achieved with the recovery position.[4] Check for a pulse.
- If the person remains unresponsive, prep for CPR. Unless you suspect a spinal injury, carefully roll them onto their back and open their airway.[5] If you suspect a spinal injury, leave the person where they are, provided they are breathing.[6]
- Keep the head and neck aligned.
- Carefully roll them onto their back while holding their head.
- Open the airway by lifting the chin.
- Perform 30 chest compressions and two rescue breaths as part of CPR. In the center of the chest, just below an imaginary line running between the nipples, put your two hands together and compress the chest down approximately at a rate of 100 compressions per minute (or to the beat of "Staying Alive"). After 30 compressions, give two rescue breaths, done by opening the airways, closing the nose and fully covering the mouth hole. Then check vitals. If the breaths are blocked, reposition the airway. Make sure the head is tilted slightly back and the tongue is not obstructing it. Continue this cycle of 30 chest compressions and two rescue breaths until someone else relieves you.[7]
- Remember your ABCs of CPR. The ABCs of CPR refer to the three critical things you need to look for.[5]Check these three things frequently as you give the person first aid CPR.
- Airway. Does the person have an unobstructed airway?
- Breathing. Is the person breathing?
- Circulation. Does the person show a pulse at major pulse points (wrist, carotid artery, groin)?
- Make sure the person is warm as you wait for medical help. Drape a towel or a blanket over the person if you have one; if you don't, remove some of your own clothing (such as your coat or jacket) and use it as a cover until medical help arrives. However if the person has a heatstroke, do not cover him or keep him warm. Instead try to cool him by fanning him and damping him.
- Pay attention to a list of don'ts. As you administer first aid, be sure to be aware of these things that you should not do in any case:
- Do not feed or hydrate an unconscious person. This could cause choking and possible asphyxiation.
- Do not leave the person alone. Unless you absolutely need to signal or call for help, stay with the person at all times.
- Do not prop up an unconscious person's head with a pillow.
- Do not slap or splash with water an unconscious person's face. These are movie gimmicks.
- If the person appears in danger due to an electric shock, you may attempt to move it, but only with a non-conductive object.
EditTreating Common Problems In First Aid Scenarios - Protect yourself from bloodborne pathogens. Bloodborne pathogens can threaten your health and wellbeing by causing sickness and disease. If you have a first aid kit, sanitize your hands and put on sterile gloves. If sterile gloves and sanitizer are not available, protect your hands with extra gauze or cotton. Avoid direct contact with the other person's blood. If you do end up making contact, make sure to clean yourself off as soon as possible. Eliminate any remaining sources of contamination.
- Stop the bleeding first. After you have established that the victim is breathing and has a pulse, your next priority should be to control any bleeding. Control of bleeding is one of the most important things you can do to save a trauma victim. Use direct pressure on a wound before trying any other method of managing bleeding. Read the linked article for more detailed steps you can take.
- Treat a bullet wound. Bullet wounds are serious and unpredictable. Read on for special considerations when treating someone who has suffered a gunshot wound.
- Treat shock next. Shock, often caused a loss of blood flow to the body, frequently follows physical and occasionally psychological trauma. A person in shock will frequently have cool, clammy skin, be agitated or have an altered mental status, and have pale color to the skin around the face and lips. Untreated, shock can be fatal. Anyone who has suffered a severe injury or life-threatening situation is at risk for shock.
- Provide first aid for a broken bone. A broken bone, however common, can be treated with the following steps:
- Immobilize the area. Make sure that the broken bone doesn't have to move or support any other body parts.
- Numb the pain. Often, this can be done with an ice-pack covered by a towel.
- Make a splint. A bundle of newspapers and sturdy tape will do just the trick. A broken finger, for example, can also use another finger as a stabilizing splint.
- Make a sling, if necessary. Tie a shirt or a pillowcase around a broken arm and then around the shoulder.
- Help a choking victim. Choking can cause death or permanent brain damage within minutes. Read this article for ways to help a choking victim. The article addresses helping both children and adult choking victims.
- One of the ways to help a choking victim is the Heimlich maneuver. The Heimlich maneuver is performed by straddling the victim from behind and bear-hugging them with your hands interlocked above their belly-button but beneath their breastbone. Thrust upward to expel air from the lungs and repeat until you are successful in clearing the object from the windpipe. IF THIS WORKS, THE PERSON WILL NEED TO VISIT THE HOSPITAL QUICKLY, INTERNAL BLEEDING CAN BE CAUSED WITH THIS METHOD.
- Learn how to treat a burn. Treat first- and second-degree burns by immersing or flushing with cool water for at least 10 minutes (no ice). Don't use creams, butter or other ointments, and do not pop blisters. Third degree burns should be covered with a damp cloth. Remove clothing and jewelry from the burn, but do not try to remove charred clothing that is stuck to burns.
- Look out for a concussion. If the victim has suffered a blow to the head, look for signs of concussion. Common symptoms include:
- Loss of consciousness following the injury
- Disorientation or memory impairment
- Vertigo
- Nausea
- Lethargy.
- Treat a Spinal Injury Victim. If you suspect a spinal injury, it is especially critical that you not move the victim's head, neck or back unless they are in immediate danger. You also need to take special care when performing rescue breathing or CPR. Read this article to learn what to do.
EditTreating Rarer Cases in First Aid Scenarios - Help someone who is having a seizure. Seizures can be scary things for people who've never experienced them before. Luckily, helping people with seizures is relatively straightforward.
- Clear the surroundings to protect the person from hurting themselves.[8]
- Activate emergency medical services if the seizure lasts more than 5 minutes or if the person is not breathing afterwards.
- After the episode has ended, help them to the floor and and put something soft or flat under their head. Turn them onto their side to ease breathing, but do not hold the person down or try to stop their movements.
- Be friendly and reassuring as their consciousness returns and do not offer food or water until fully alert.
- Help someone survive a heart attack. It helps to know the symptoms of heart attack, which include rapid heartbeat, pressure or pain in the chest, and general unease or nausea. Rush the person to the hospital immediately while giving them an aspirin or a nitroglycerin, which the person should chew.
- Identify someone having a stroke. Again, knowing the symptoms of stroke is important. They include temporary inability to talk or understand what is being said; confusion; loss of balance or dizziness; and severe headache with no precursor, among others. Rush a person you suspect has had a stroke to the emergency room immediately.
- Treat poisoning. Poisoning can occur as a result of natural toxins (i.e. snake bite) or chemical combinations. If an animal may be responsible for poisoning, try to (safely) kill it, bag it, and bring it with you to poison control.
- If possible, use latex gloves or other barriers to protect yourself from others' bodily fluids.
- As much as this article can cover, you will only learn so much from reading steps on how to do this. As such, try to find training in first aid and/or CPR if at all possible - this gives you, the reader, the ability to learn hands-on exactly how to bind fractures and dislocations, bandage moderate to severe wounds, and even perform CPR, and you will find yourself better prepared for treating those in need after the training. In addition, these certifications also protect you in the event of legal action - while Good Samaritan laws will protect you in these cases, certifications simply bolster this.
- If a person is impaled on an object, do not remove it unless it is obstructing an airway. Removing the object is likely to cause additional injuries and increase the severity of bleeding. Avoid moving the person. If you must move them, you may shorten and secure the object.[5]
- Moving someone with spinal cord damage may increase the likelihood of paralysis or death.
- Never try to reset a broken or dislocated bone. Remember, this is first aid - if you are doing this, you are preparing a patient for transport. Unless you are 110% sure of what you are doing, resetting a dislocation or broken bone runs a strong risk of making things worse.
- Do not move the person. It could harm them even more; unless they are in immediate danger. Wait for the ambulance to arrive to take over treatment of the person.
- Never, ever put yourself in danger! As much as this seems to lack compassion, remember that being a hero, in this case, means nothing if you come back dead.
- Do not touch someone who is being shocked by an electrical current. Turn off the power or use a piece of non-conductive material (e.g., wood, dry rope, dry clothing) to separate him from the power source before touching him.
- It is dangerous to give aspirin to anyone under the age of 16 as it can cause potentially fatal damage to the brain and liver before this age.
- If you aren't sure what to do, leave it to the professionals. If it's not a life-critical injury, doing the wrong thing can endanger the patient. See the note about training, up above in tips.
- Before touching a victim or rendering any aid, get consent to treat! Check the laws in your area. Rendering aid without consent may lead to legal action. If someone has a "Do not resuscitate" order, respect it (only if you see proof). If the person is unconscious and at risk of death or injury, without any known "Do not resuscitate" order, go ahead and treat by implied consent. If consciousness is not yet known, tap them on the shoulder and say "Sir/Ma'am, are you alright? I know how to help you." before proceeding to render first aid.
EditRelated wikiHows EditSources and Citations
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| How to Remove Musty Odors Posted: 08 Feb 2017 12:00 AM PST This wikiHow will give you tips and advice on how to remove musty odors. EditKey Points - Clothing: wash in a washing machine with white vinegar, baking soda, or bleach. Air dry when clean. More ↓
- Appliances: clean with white vinegar solution or use baking soda to absorb odors. ↓
- Damp Spaces: air out periodically, and use potpourri to absorb odors. ↓
- Furniture and Carpets: clean hard surfaces with chlorine dioxide and soft surfaces with hydrogen peroxide or baking soda. ↓
- Other Items: use baking soda to absorb odors and air out damp items. ↓
EditRemoving Odors from Fabric - Wash cloth items (clothing, drapery, linens) with white vinegar in a washing machine. Add 1 cup of white vinegar to a normal load and let soak for 30 minutes. Continue regular wash cycle adding a liquid, scented fabric softener during the rinse. Put a scented fabric softener sheet in the dryer as well. If needed, repeat this step.
- The vinegar smell should dissipate after drying.
- You may be using too much laundry detergent or fabric softener. This can cause soap to accumulate on clothing, making them less absorbent and causing musty odors.[1]
- Wash cloth items (clothing, drapery, linens) with baking soda in a washing machine. Add 1 cup of baking soda to a normal load and let soak for 30 minutes. Complete normal wash cycle.[2]
- Wash or soak your clothes in bleach. Bleach can remove both stains and odors caused by mold. Place clothing in the washing machine, making sure not to overload the machine. Add liquid detergent and set your washer for "warm" water. Once the machine has filled with water, add a cup of bleach (reduce this for smaller loads). Continue regular wash. Remove and rinse clothing if you notice colors beginning to fade.
- Bleach can permanently discolor or damage clothing, especially silk, wool, or animal fibers, so check clothing tags for any "do not use chlorine bleach" warnings.[3]
- Do not over wash clothes with chlorine bleach, as it can weaken fabrics such as linen, cotton, and rayon overtime.
- Hang clothes outside on a sunny day after washing. Exposing your fabrics to light and fresh air can remove odors naturally.
- Make sure fabrics are completely dry before bringing them inside and storing them. Moisture is a major cause of mildew.[4]
- Keep an eye on the weather and bring all fabrics inside if it gets cloudy and before it starts to rain. Do not leave out overnight.
EditRemoving Odors from Appliances - Clean appliances with a white vinegar solution. Remove all food from a refrigerator and defrost freezers before cleaning. Dilute a quart of warm water with 1 tablespoon baking soda. Wipe all appliances with the baking soda and water mix.
- Spread this mixture on the interior surfaces. Fill the space with crumpled newspaper and let sit 24 hours or until dry. Remove newspaper and rinse off with water and a paper towel.
- Open a box of baking soda and place it in your refrigerator. If the refrigerator is in use, the odor will be absorbed in a few days. Replace the baking soda regularly, according to the instructions on the box.
- Place a small (several teaspoons) dish or saucer of vanilla extract in your refrigerator. Let sit for 3 weeks to remove bad or musty odors.
- Freezer temperatures will cause vanilla extract to freeze, making it ineffective as a deodorizer.
- Get rid of smoky or unappetizing smells from the oven. Commercial oven cleaners can be toxic and leave an unappealing smell. You can remove odors from your oven simply using things found in your kitchen.
- Mix together in a glass bowl 1/2 cup dish soap, 1 1/2 cups baking soda, 1/4 cup white vinegar, and 1 teaspoon vanilla extract. Add enough water so your mixture forms a thick paste, but is not watery. Coat or paint the interior surfaces of your oven and leave overnight (6 to 8 hours). You want the mixture to "foam-up" so it can lift grime from the surface. Use a scrubber and water to wipe down the oven. Repeat if needed.[5]
- Fill a spray bottle with 1/2 white vinegar and 1/2 water. Spritz the inside of your oven and wipe with a moist sponge. This will help remove odors, but not baked-on food or grease.[6]
- Sprinkle salt on burned-on food in the oven. Wait until the oven cools and wipe with a damp cloth.[7]
- Clean musty odors from a washing machine with bleach or vinegar. Mildew can form in washing machines (especially front-loaders) causing musty odors even in freshly washed clothes.[8] Empty any clothes from the washer. Add a cup of bleach or vinegar. Set the temperature to "hot" and run the machine on a short, normal cycle. Let the machine drain.
- Periodically leave the lid or door to your washer open when not in use to prevent mold and mildew formation.
- Clean the interior and exterior surfaces of your washing machine with a diluted bleach (2 teaspoons per 1 gallon cool water) or vinegar solution (2 tablespoons white vinegar per 1 gallon cool water).[9][10] Wipe all surfaces with a paper towel moistened with water. Let sit for 12 hours or until completely dry before using.
EditEliminating Odors in Damp spaces - Periodically air-out closets, closed rooms, and cabins. Mold and mildew love cool, damp, and dark areas. Scrub non-porous hard surfaces, including walls, inside of drawers, and laminate,concrete, or tile flooring with detergent and warm water.[11]
- Reduce moisture in the air by setting-up a fan, dehumidifier, or opening a window. Ideally, humidity should be kept below 40% in your house.[12]
- Hire professionals to remove moldy ceiling tiles, carpet, linoleum, or drywall. These cannot be cleaned and are potentially hazardous to your health.
- Cover-up room odors with homemade potpourri. Simmer stick cinnamon, orange peel, and whole cloves in water on the stove. Remove when the water begins to boil and set anywhere in the house to cool.[13]
- Tie blends of spices or potpourri in pantyhose and place next to a heating vent when the furnace is running.
- Fill a tray or box with cat litter. Leave in places where you store unused clothing, such as closets or an attic, to reduce moisture and remove odors.[14]
- Sprays such as "Oust" also help temporarily eliminate musty smells.
- Hang mesh bags of crushed volcanic rocks in damp places. These are available at most hardware and do-it-yourself stores and can be used to naturally deodorize basements, closets, sheds, and even shoes.[15]
- Read the instructions provided on the bag. This will tell you the size and number of bags needed per square foot area.
- Wipe around windows and doors with mixture of 1/2 water and 1/2 vinegar. Follow this by spreading a thin film of coconut oil on window sills or around the edges of windows and doors. This will prevent mold and mustiness returning for several months.
- To disinfect surfaces and kill mold mix 3/4 cups of bleach with warm water. Wear rubber gloves and use a sponge to wipe-down surfaces. Let sit for 5 minutes before rinsing with water. Air dry.[16][17]
- Regularly recheck windows, doors, and walls for mold or mildew spots or if the musty smell returns. Disinfect as needed.
EditRemoving Odors from Furniture and Carpets - Kill mold spores using chlorine dioxide. This is used on boats to control musty odors, and in libraries to control outbreaks of mildew. There are several convenient sources of small amounts of chlorine dioxide that are sold for use in boats and closets.
- Spot-clean mold or mildew stains on carpets with hydrogen peroxide. Mix the solution by adding 3 teaspoons hydrogen peroxide to 5 teaspoons of water. Use a thick paintbrush to brush onto the affected area.[18]
- Test first in a non-visible part of carpet as hydrogen peroxide can bleach or fade colors.
- Clean carpets with baking soda or carpet cleaner. Coat the surface of a dry carpet with baking soda carpet or carpet cleaner, and then work into the carpet fibers with a damp sponge mop. Let sit until completely dry and then vacuum up. Follow package directions on testing for colorfastness and length of application time.
- You may have to vacuum the carpet twice, and move the vacuum in opposite directions.[19]
- Have your carpets professionally shampooed, or rent a do-it-yourself shampooer from a grocery or hardware store.
- Clean small throw rugs or doormats in a washing machine. Check the manufacturer's label for cleaning instructions or if the carpet is machine washable.
- Clean out cupboards and trunks with baking soda or newspapers. You can fill a cupboard with crumpled newspapers or leave an open box of baking soda in a trunk. Let stand for at least 2-3 days to remove odors.[20]
- Wipe cupboard, trunk, or drawer surfaces with 1/2 baking soda and 1/2 water solution.
- A small opened can or container of fresh coffee grounds can also be effective in small spaces. Leave for 2-3 days before removing or replacing.
- Alternatively, remove all items from the storage space and sprinkle a thin layer of coffee grounds or baking soda on the floor of the surface. Let sit for 2-3 days and then vacuum-up or wipe with a damp cloth. Leave open and let air dry.
EditRemoving Odors from Other Items - Deodorize shoes with baking soda. Spoon several teaspoons of baking soda into the sole and seal shoes in a plastic ziplock bag. Place in the freezer overnight. Remove the next morning and dump backing soda into garbage.[21]
- Pack wet shoes (especially sneakers or cleats) with crumpled newspaper. Replace newspaper when it becomes soaked through. This will help the shoe dry faster and prevent wet shows from developing musty or bad odors.
- Air out your suitcase or backpack. Leave the item outside in the sunshine for a few days. Heat and light help kill mildew and bacteria.
- Place several dryer sheets in your suitcase or backpack or fill fabric packets with cat litter that contains baking soda.
- Keep suitcases and backpacks fresh when not in use with wrapped bars of soap. Place several throughout the main compartment as well as any large pockets.[22]
- Remove musty odors from tents. Set-up the tent in your backyard on a sunny day. You may never get rid of the mold stains but you should be able to get rid of the odor with a good scrub (read the tent manufacturer's instructions for appropriate products) and some sunny days.
- After camping, make sure the tent is completely dry before rolling-up and storing.
- Freshen car interiors. Sprinkle baking soda or carpet cleaner on upholstery and floors and then vacuum.[23]
- Leave an open container of coffee grounds or a pan of cat litter in your trunk overnight to absorb odors.
- Spray mats with a diluted bleach solution (1/2 cup bleach to 1 gallon water) and then hose down with water. Do this on a warm, sunny day so you can leave the mats outside to air dry.[24][25]
- Deodorize without damaging smelly books. Neutralize unpleasant or musty odors in books with crushed volcanic rock (purchased in mesh bags from a hardware store). Find a clean plastic bin that can be sealed with a lid. Lay a mesh bag with crushed volcanic rock (purchased from a hardware store) on the floor of the bin. Set a clean milk crate directly on top of the volcanic rock, and lay books vertically in the crate. Cover the bin and leave sealed for several days.[26][27]
- Weave paper towels throughout the pages of a book and then place it the freezer overnight.
- Open a book and leave it outside on a hot, bright day to air out.
- Do not use bleach or ammonia to clean appliances as these can damage the lining and emit potentially dangerous fumes.
- If you do not have access to a washing machine, soaking clothing in a sink or tub filled with warm water for 30 minutes is just as effective.
- Throw-out moldy carpet or upholstery.
- Most room sprays just mask mustiness not remove it, but there are products (such as "Oust") that temporarily fool your olfactory receptors (sense of smell) into thinking it has been eliminated. These are useful until the actual problem is solved.
- Make sure towels are fully dry before tossing them in a hamper with other clothes.
- Make sure clothing is fully rinsed and dry before placing in a closet or dresser.
- The musty odor will persist or return if you do not identify and remove the underlying cause, such as dampness or bacteria.[28]
- Avoid storing items in cold, dark, damp places as these promote the growth of mold or mildew.[29]
- Consider cleaning your washing machine or dresser drawers if the musty odors persist as these, and not your clothes, may be harboring mold and mildew.[30]
- Prevent mold and mildew growth by fixing leaks or water problems affecting plumbing, or walls or roof of your house. [31]
- Chlorine dioxide is an irritant. If you are using chlorine dioxide, air the room out before occupying it. Or keep the door closed if you are deodorizing a closet.
- Contact your local County Services Office for recommendations for mold treatment companies. Get competing offers before signing any contracts and make sure the contract has a re-treatment clause. Do not attempt to remove yourself.
- Extensive mold found in basements, attics, crawl spaces and vents could be toxic. If found, wear a mask, avoid breathing the spores, wear gloves and wash hands thoroughly after encountering.
- Mixing chemicals, especially with bleach, can be dangerous and potentially volatile. When mixing home cleaning solutions, use a clean glass bowl or measuring cup. Do not reuse spray bottles. Purchase and label empty spray bottles from a hardware store.
- When using commercial cleaners or bleach, always make sure the space where you are working is well ventilated with adequate airflow.[32]
- Make sure a surface (hard surface, carpet, upholstery) is completely dry before sprinkling with baking soda. Preexisting moisture can cause the baking soda to harden, rendering it ineffective in absorbing smells and making it difficult to clean.[33]
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