| How to Make a Shadow Box Frame Posted: 19 Mar 2020 05:00 PM PDT You can easily make your own shadow box frame to display your favorite objects or artwork with a few materials and a little bit of effort. Start by measuring the item you want to display so you can gather the right materials. Choose a thin sheet of plywood to serve as the backing and a thicker length of plywood that you can cut to size and form the sides of the frame. Use wood glue to hold them in place and use nails to secure the sides of the frame. Use a wooden picture frame with the glass already attached to it to make a front panel. You can then paint it a color that will make your item stand out, and you're ready to display it! [Edit]Cutting and Sanding the Wood - Measure the item that you plan to place in the frame. The artwork or objects that you plan to place inside of the shadow box frame needs to fit inside of it. Use a ruler or a tape measure to find the length and width of the item so you can make a shadow box frame that fits it.[1]
- Write down your measurements so you can easily remember them.
- For example, you could have a painting that measures that you want to install inside of a shadow box frame.
- If you're giving the shadow box as a gift, or you don't know the dimensions of the artwork, choose a common shadow box measurement such as , , or .
- Buy a piece of thick plywood for the backing. Purchase a sheet of plywood in good condition that is as close to your measurements as you can. Look for pre-cut sheets of plywood that fit the dimensions, or purchase a larger sheet that you can cut to size.[2]
- You can find thick plywood at your local hardware store or online.
- Cut the plywood to size, if necessary. Use a ruler and trace the dimensions of the shadow box frame onto the thinner sheet of plywood that will serve as the backing. Then, use a circular saw to cut along the lines and cut out the plywood so it matches the measurements.
- Use a pencil or marker to mark the dimensions on the board.
- Use the ruler to draw a straight line so you can cut along it with the saw.
- Get an board measuring . Buy a length of thicker plywood that you can measure and cut to size to build your shadow box frame. The thicker board will form the top, sides, and bottom of your frame, so cutting them from the same piece of plywood will ensure that they're uniform and consistent.[3]
- You can purchase plywood boards at hardware stores, at home improvement stores, and online.
- Cut the top and bottom pieces from the board. Measure the top or bottom of the plywood backing that you cut and then mark the measurements onto the plywood board. Use the circular saw to cut 2 segments from the board to form the top and bottom pieces of the frame.
- You can also use a table saw or a hand saw to cut the board.
- You will end up with 1 sheet of thinner plywood and 2 lengths of the thicker plywood.
- Subtract from the length and cut the side pieces. Subtract the thickness of the top and bottom boards from the total length of the backing to find the length of your side boards. Then, cut them out of the plywood.[4]
- The 2 top pieces will be the same length as the width of the plywood backing of the frame. The 2 sides will be slightly shorter than the length of the backing because of the top and bottom pieces.
- Sand all of the pieces of wood with 180-grit sandpaper. Use gentle, circular motions to lightly sand all of the pieces of wood to remove splinters and rough patches. Pay extra attention to the edges and the sides that were cut so the boards are even and consistent.[5]
- Wipe or blow off any sawdust from the surface of the wood when you're done sanding.
- You can use an electric sander as well.
- Look for sandpaper at hardware stores and online.
[Edit]Assembling the Frame - Apply wood glue to 1 of the short boards. Take 1 of the shorter length of boards that will form either the top or the bottom of the shadow box frame and squeeze a line of wood glue across the bottom edge of it. Use enough glue to form an even and consistent line along the bottom.[6]
- Wood glue is available at home improvement stores, at hardware stores, and online.
- Press the glue side of the short board to the top edge of the backing. Press the short board at either short end of the plywood backing so the edges of the board and the backing are flush against each other. Hold the board in place for about 10 seconds so it sticks.[7]
- Gently release pressure from the board so the glue holds it in place.
- Clamp the boards together with a C-clamp for 1 hour. Tighten a C-clamp on top of the board to apply pressure while the glue bonds the 2 pieces of wood together. Leave the clamped pieces of wood alone to allow the glue to dry and bond them together. After an hour, release the clamp and gently wiggle the wood to make sure it's held securely by the glue.[8]
- You could also use a jaw clamp or a screw clamp as well.
- You can find C-clamps at your local hardware store and online.
- Check the packaging of the wood glue for specific drying times.
- Drive nails into the 2 ends of the board. Use a hammer to drive the nails through the plywood backing and into the thicker board. Drive nails at both ends of the board to secure it to the backing.[9]
- Use light hammer strokes to drive the nails into the wood so you don't crack the frame.
- Attach the rest of the boards to the backing to form the frame. Apply wood glue to the bottom edge of a board, press it to the backing, and then clamp it into place with a C-clamp. When the glue dries, drive nails through the backing and into the top and bottom of the board. Continue working until all of the sides are connected to the backing.[10]
[Edit]Painting the Frame - Choose an acrylic or latex paint in a contrasting color. Shadow box frames are often black because it causes the art or object being displayed in the frame to stand out. You can choose any contrasting color to add depth and dimension to the item in the frame.[11]
- Acrylic or latex paints are easy to apply to the wood.
- You can find paint at paint supply stores, hardware stores, department stores, and online.
- Lay down newspaper or drop cloths over a clean work area. Clear a desk or table to use as a workspace while you paint your shadow box frame. Cover the space with drop cloths or newspaper so you don't get paint on anything and cleaning up afterward will be easy.[12]
- You can use a tarp, plastic sheeting, newspaper, or anything else you don't mind getting paint on to protect your workspace.
- Use a paintbrush to apply a thin coat to the sides, inside, and back. Dip a paintbrush into the paint and use smooth, consistent strokes to apply a thin layer of paint to the wood. Paint the inside, the backing, and 3 of the sides. When the paint dries, paint the last side so you don't create smudges by holding the frame to paint it.[13]
- Work to apply an even layer of paint.
- Be sure to paint the corners and edges of the frame as well.
- Allow the paint to dry for at least 1 hour. Drying times can vary based on the type of paint you're using as well as the temperature and humidity of the room you're working in, but you need to wait at least an hour to allow the first coat of paint to dry. Test to see that it's dry by touching the paint with your finger.[14]
- Check the packaging on the paint for specific drying times.
- Work in a well-ventilated room to avoid breathing in the paint fumes and aim a fan at the frame to speed up the drying time of the paint.
- Apply a second coat of paint for better coverage. You may notice spots where you can see the wood through the coat of paint, so apply a second coat using the same smooth strokes to create an even and consistent finish. Allow the second coat to dry completely.[15]
- If necessary, you can apply an additional coat of paint to the frame.
[Edit]Adding a Front Panel - Use a picture frame with glass that matches your dimensions. A simple way to add a front panel to your shadow box is to connect a wooden picture frame that already has the glass connected to it. Choose a frame that fits the dimensions of your shadow box so it fits onto it evenly.[16]
- Remove any backing or other materials from the picture frame so that only the front wooden frame and the glass remains.
- You can buy new frames at craft supply stores and department stores.
- Look for old picture frames at thrift stores that you can upcycle for your project!
- Drill 2 hinges onto the inside of the picture frame. Flip the picture frame over so the back is facing up. Use a power drill to attach a small hinge to the outermost edge of one of the sides of the frame near the top. Then, attach another small hinge to the outermost edge of the frame near the bottom so there are 2 hinges on the same side.[17]
- Make sure the hinges are aligned with each other and evenly spaced from the top and bottom edges of the frame.
- Use the small screws that come with the hinges.
- You can find small hinges at home improvement stores, department stores, and online.
- Screw the hinges to the front edge of the shadow box frame. Lay the picture frame on your shadow box frame and align the hinges so they lay flat on the outer edge on the front. Use your drill to drive the screws into the shadow box frame so the hinges connect the picture frame to it.[18]
- Open and close the front panel to make sure it works and the edges are lined up evenly.
- You can also use a screwdriver if you don't have access to a power drill.
- Paint the front panel to match the rest of the frame. Use the same paint or stain that you used to paint the rest of the shadow box frame and apply a thin coat over the front panel. Allow the paint to dry completely and then add a second coat so none of the original paint or color is visible.[19]
- Use as many coats as it takes to cover the panel without any of the original paint visible.
[Edit]Things You'll Need - thick plywood
- plywood board long
- Ruler or measuring tape
- Circular saw
- 180-grit sandpaper
- Wood glue
- C-clamp
- nails
- Hammer
- Paint
- Paintbrush
- 2 small hinges with screws
- Power drill
[Edit]References [Edit]Quick Summary |
| How to Take Professional Photos of Yourself Posted: 19 Mar 2020 09:00 AM PDT Whether you're applying for a job or looking for a new profile photo for social media, your portrait is where you make your first impression. A low-quality photo can make you look sloppy, unprofessional, and sends the message that you don't care about presentation. On the other hand, a high-quality self-portrait draws the viewer in and incentivizes them to take a closer look at your photo, profile, and resume. Choosing an appropriate backdrop, using a great camera, and adjusting the camera's settings based on your lighting is a solid recipe for success. With enough practice and patience, you'll be able to emulate the look of professional photos in no time. [Edit]Choosing a Location - Shoot indoors for a standard headshot with a basic background. If you're shooting professional photos for personal use, like for social media, choose any backdrop that you think will be interesting. If you're shooting a professional headshot, choose a blank wall, shoot with bookshelves behind you, or hang a simple bedsheet behind you.[1]
- To hang a sheet for a portrait, use tape or a curtain rod to hang the sheet vertically behind you.
- If you want to add a little more attitude or personality to your image, feel free to shoot your business headshot against a textured or wallpapered wall.
- Set your shot up next to a bright window and add lights as needed. Shoot during the day and set up your shot in a bright, sunny room. Use lamps, your camera flash, and ceiling lights to complement the light from your window. You can rent or buy a softbox for perfect portrait lighting if you'd like. Set additional light sources to the right or left of the camera to create dynamic shadows and highlights.[2]
- If you use additional lighting sources, use light sources that produce white light, as opposed to yellow or blue light. A softbox is a professional piece of equipment that produces high-quality white light.
- Take photos outdoors for a more dynamic, natural shot. Look for a nice backdrop outdoors where the background will match the tone that you're aiming for in your image. Stairs, porches, and backyards can provide interesting locations for a self-portrait. If you're shooting a headshot, a simple brick wall or city skyline can provide a standard backdrop that won't stand out too much or dominate the image.[3]
- Shoot outdoor photos during the day with the sun behind the camera. Shoot during the day when the sun is out to get bright, natural lighting. Choose an angle where you aren't directly in front of the sun. Otherwise, your face won't be illuminated. Avoid shooting around noon when the sun is high in the sky to avoid washing your image out in light.[4]
- For a more dynamic look, shoot 15-45 minutes after sunrise or before sunset. These periods are known as the golden hours, and they're the periods in the day when the light is softer and more radiant.
- Avoid shooting in overcast conditions. It is difficult to achieve strong highlights and shadows if there isn't much direct light outside.
- Choose an outfit that matches the goal of your photo. If you're taking self-portraits for personal use, you can wear whatever you want for your photo! Dress professionally for a business headshot. If you're wearing a suit, make sure that it has been dry cleaned and ironed. If you're going for a more traditional look, put a tie on. For a more contemporary, trendy look, skip the tie. If you're wearing a dress, make sure that it is business appropriate. Wash, comb, and gel your hair the way you normally would for a job interview or important business meeting.[5]
- if you're in an industry that generally benefits from a less-formal look, feel free to dress a little more casually. Wear a trendier dress or a unique suit jacket without a tie. A sweater over a collared shirt can work as well. This would be appropriate for graphic designers, programmers, or writers.
- Most business headshots are from the waist or chest and up. If you don't plan on taking any full-body shots, feel free to wear some comfortable sweatpants or something like that.
- Compare examples online or from coworkers to find what looks appropriate. Look at your boss's headshot on social media to get a sense for what's appropriate in your industry. If you can't find it online, look for people in similar positions online. This is a great way to get a sense for where you should take your photo and how you should dress.[6]
- If you're looking for a new position or promotion, look at how the managers and directors in your field dress. For example, if you're a mechanical engineer, look at how the head of engineering departments look in their headshots.
- LinkedIn is great for this. Go on LinkedIn and browse profiles to compare how people present themselves in their photos.
- This is less important if you aren't shooting a business headshot since you can wear whatever you want.
[Edit]Setting up the Camera - Use a DSLR camera or newer smartphone to get a high-quality image. A DSLR will give you more control over your image, but you can certainly use a phone with a high-quality lens if you that's all you have available. It will be hard to get a high-quality image using a cheap camera or old phone. If you're aiming for a professional look, it's not worth wasting your time if you don't have a great camera.[7]
- Newer iPhones and Samsung models made after 2016 are known for having great cameras. If your phone's camera has more than 12 megapixels (MP), the quality is likely very good. Megapixels refer to the number of pixels in each image. The more pixels there are, the more detailed the image will be.[8]
- DSLR stands for digital single-lens reflex camera. DSLRs are the bulky cameras with big lenses that you see tourists and professional photographers using.
- Set up your camera on a tripod or a flat, stable surface. Since you won't be able take professional-looking photos while holding your camera, you'll need a tripod or a flat surface to balance it on. Either attach your camera or smartphone to a tripod, or rest it on a flat surface, like a bookshelf, some books stacked on a table, a bench, or any other surface that's high enough to capture your shot.[9]
- Tripods for DSLRs are universal, and basically every camera should fit on a standard camera tripod. You can also get a tripod for your phone if that's how you're shooting your photos.
- Set the shutter speed between 1/60-1/200 for a sharp photo. Shutter speed refers to how long the lens is exposed for an image. A faster shutter speed results in a sharper image, but requires a lot of light to illuminate the subject. A slower shutter speed will result in a brighter image, but things will be blurry if the camera and subject aren't perfectly still. Keep the shutter speed at 1/60 or lower for a clear, sharp image.[10]
- Prioritize shutter speed over the other settings for a business headshot. Raise the ISO or lower the aperture before you increase the shutter speed.
- Turn the ISO to 100-400 for a clear, grain-free image. ISO stands for International Organization for Standardization. A higher ISO results in a grainer image, but requires a low exposure. A lower ISO will result in a higher-quality image, but requires a longer exposure. Start with the ISO at 100, 200, or 400 and make adjustments as needed based on the light you have available.[11]
- Do not exceed 800 ISO. If you do, you're going to end up with noise in your photo and it may look grainy. The only time you should exceed 800 ISO is if you're shooting an artistic portrait and want the digital image to resemble film.
- Adjust the aperture based on the depth of the image you want. Aperture, or f-stop, refers to the depth of field in an image. The lower the aperture, the blurrier images in the background will be. A high aperture requires a longer shutter speed. Unless you want to draw attention to something in the background, keep the f-stop under f/12.[12]
- For an outdoor business headshot, set the aperture as low as you can (usually around f/2) to blur the background out. You want the emphasis to be on you, not the background.
[Edit]Taking the Pictures - Place an item where you plan on standing and adjust the focus. Once you set your camera and lights up, put a chair, standing lamp, broom, or some other object in the location where you're going to stand for the self-portrait. Then, either adjust the focus manually or use the automatic focus setting to bring your object into focus. This way, you know that you'll be in focus when you replace the object for your portrait.[13]
- On most phones, you touch the screen where the object is to put it into focus.
- On a DSLR, the focus setting is typically on the side of the lens itself. "M" stands for manual while "A" stands for automatic. When it's set to automatic, you press the shutter button halfway down and the lens will adjust accordingly based on what you're looking at in the viewfinder.
- Set the timer on your camera. Every camera has a delayed-timer setting which should give you enough time to move from the camera to the spot where you're going to stand for the photo. Unfortunately, you will need to repeat this process every time you want to take a photo. To take multiple photos at once, connect an intervalometer or remote shutter to your camera and use that instead.[14]
- An intervalometer is an automated attachment that you plug into your camera. Set it to take a photo every 1, 5, or 10 seconds to change your pose or facial expression after every shot. Intervalometers are typically used to make stop-motion videos or in time-lapse photography.
- A remote shutter is an attachment that plugs into you camera. It comes with a clicker that you can click from anywhere to take a photo without being behind the camera.
- Run to your mark and pose for the camera. Once you set the timer, move quickly to the spot where you're taking your photo and pose. Position yourself so that you're in the exact location where the object you used to set the focus. Take a breath and make whatever expression or gesture you'd like for your photo.[15]
- For a business headshot, be sure to relax your arms at your side and stand up straight. Tense arms can make you hunch over a little, which can make you look dishonest or tired.
- You can stuff your hands in your pockets if it makes it easier for you to relax.
- If you're shooting some artful self-portraits, feel free to make whatever facial expression you think works for the image you're going for.
- Review the results of your shot and adjust the settings as needed. Once you've taken a single shot, go back to the camera and review your image. Use this first shot as a metric for what settings or adjustments you need to make in terms of how you look and what the camera settings are. If the image is too dark, try raising the ISO 100-200 or lowering the shutter speed. If you're blurry, readjust the focus. If the image is washed out in light, lower the ISO to 200-400 before moving the shutter speed down.[16]
- It is extremely unlikely that your first photo will look right. Don't worry--the closer you get to the right settings for your shot, the more likely you are to find the perfect self-portrait!
- Continue taking photos until you have several portraits to choose from. Once you've adjusted your settings based on your first image, continue taking photos. Make adjustments as needed and shoot multiple images until you achieve your goal. Shoot at least 10-20 images to increase the chances that at least 1 of your portraits is excellent![17]
- The more images you take, the more likely it is that you'll capture something truly special. At the same time, it can take a long time to sort through hundreds of photos! Ideally, you should have at least 5 options to choose from.
- Edit your photographs using professional editing software. If you know how to use a complex editing program like Photoshop, upload your photos and edit the ones you really like in your editing program. Otherwise, download a simple and free editing program like PhotoScape, Photoshop Express, or Gimp. Crop your images to get the best ratio between your body and the negative space, adjust the light levels, and apply filters as desired to improve the look of your photos.[18]
- If the color of the lighting is off, change the white balance settings. To make your image brighter or darker, use the brightness or contrast settings to adjust the light in your photo.
- Professional headshots typically don't use flashy camera filters. If you really want to stand out and you're in a creative industry, feel free to opt for a black and white filter, though!
- If you're using your phone, click the "edit" button in the gallery screen to change a photo. You can always edit photos from your camera in a computer program after you edit them, though.
- In a professional headshot, there should probably be a 2:1 ratio between your body and the background. You want the focus to be on you, not the background.
- Angle your chin slightly away from the camera to appear less flat in your self-portrait. This is a common technique that you can utilize to look more appealing and attractive.
[Edit]Things You'll Need - Tripod
- DSLR or phone camera
[Edit]References |
| How to Fix a Shaking Washing Machine Posted: 19 Mar 2020 01:00 AM PDT A shaking washing machine can be quite concerning. It may feel like the floor is about to collapse underneath your machine, and the sound can make it seem like the entire building is falling apart. Fear not! The odds are high that your clothes aren't evenly distributed inside your drum. Outside of an improperly-loaded machine, the most common source of a shaking washer is that the legs are not level, which is an incredibly easy fix. If it won't stop shaking after you've leveled it, you may want to replace the shock absorbers, which can be a tougher fix for a non-professional. If you ever run into a problem that you can't solve, consult a repair company to see if they can solve the issue. [Edit]Performing Quick Fixes - Move your clothes around in the middle of a spin cycle. If your washer starts shaking during the spin cycle, pause the washing machine. Open the door to inspect the arrangement of your clothes. If there is an uneven pile, your drum may have simply bundled your clothes into an uneven ball. Spread your clothes out and resume your spin cycle.[1]
- If your washer continues to shake, remove some of your clothes. You may have simply overloaded it.
- If your washer consistently causes your clothes to bundle together into an uneven ball, the drum is probably absorbing weight unevenly because it isn't level.
- Use smaller loads of clothes when filling your washing machine. You may be filling the drum with too many clothes when you use your washer, even if it doesn't seem like it. Only add clothes until the drum is half-full so that the clothes have room to move when the drum spins. For a front-loading machine, pile your clothes up higher towards the back of the drum and avoid leaving them near the door.[2]
- Overfilling your machine will also keep your clothes from getting adequately clean.
- Try rocking the machine when it isn't running to see if it tilts and move it. To see if your washer isn't level, put both hands on the top of your washer. Try pushing it side-to-side. If it wobbles or gives at all, your machine isn't level and the vibration from the drum is making the legs bang repeatedly into the floor. Find a more even section of flooring and move the washer to see if the problem stops.[3]
- If your dryer is unlevel too, then it's probably your floor's fault. Try finding a flatter area of your home to set the machines or slide a sheet of plywood underneath them.
- Look for shipping bolts on the back and bottom of a new washer. Open a front-loading washer and try to press the bottom of the drum down. If it doesn't move at all, the delivery or installation crew probably forgot to remove the shipping bolts. Turn your washer on to its side. Look underneath the machine and behind it for plastic clamps that are shoved over the openings or bolts.
- The shipping bolts ensure that your drum doesn't move during delivery and installation. They will cause a machine to shake if they're left in.
- Depending on the make and model of your machine, the shipping bolts may be hiding behind the back panel. If your back panel simply slides out, lift it up to see if there are any plastic pieces latched to your drum.
- Remove the shipping bolts by hand or with a wrench. Remove the shipping bolts by squeezing the handle and pulling them. If the bolts are screwed into a panel, place a wrench over the bolt and turn it counterclockwise to loosen and remove them. Sometimes, you can simply unscrew the bolts by hand.[4]
- The shipping bolts are usually brightly-colored so that they're easy to notice. They also tend to be made from a cheap plastic. They should look really out of place on your machine.
[Edit]Levelling a Washer - Place a spirit level on top of your washer near the front. Take a spirit level and place it on the top of your washing machine along the front end. Check to see which side is tilting up by looking at the bubble in the middle of your level. The side that the bubble is leaning towards is higher than the other side.[5]
- Newer machines typically don't have adjustable legs in the back.
- It is better to raise a leg than lower one, so adjust the leg that is too high.
- Lift the washer and put a block of wood under the bottom of the front. Shut the water lines and turn the electricity off by unplugging your machine. Pull your machine away from any walls. Tilt the machine so that the front legs lift off of the floor and the slide a block of wood under the front of the machine. Let your machine back down slowly so that it rests on the block.[6]
- If your machine isn't stable as it rests on the block, add another block next to your first block to distribute the weight more evenly.
- You can use a brick or other solid object if you don't have a block of wood.
- Turn the bolts on the legs with a wrench to adjust the front legs. Start by adjusting the leg that is higher. Use a wrench or channel locks to loosen the bolt on the top of the leg by turning it counterclockwise. Then, turn the base of the leg clockwise to raise it by twisting it.[7]
- Tighten the bolt above the base of the leg to lock it in place. Use channel locks or a wrench to turn the bolt near the top of the leg clockwise. Turn it until it is tight against the base of your machine. This will lock the leg and keep it from moving when you lower it.[8]
- You can use trial and error by lowering the legs and checking the level again, or your can try to measure each leg with a measuring tape. You may not be able to visually determine if the legs are even.
- Lower your washing machine and check the spirit level again. Slide the wood block out and slowly lower the machine back down. Put your level back on top of your machine and check the air bubble to see if it is level. If it is, try wobbling your machine again. If it doesn't move, you've successfully leveled the machine. If it wobbles and the front is level, you have to adjust the legs in the back.[9]
- Place the level on the control panel at the back to check the back legs. Most modern washing machines have self-leveling legs in the back and you won't need to adjust them. If your machine is more than 10 years old though, this may not be the case. Place your level flat on top of the control panel near the back of the machine. If the bubble is centered, your back legs do not need to be readjusted.[10]
- If the back legs are level, tap each leg in the back 2-3 times with your wrench or channel locks. There may be a little rust or dirt stuck in the self-leveling joint.
- If your control panel is round on top or set at an angle, place your level directly in front of it.
- Use the same process you used with the front legs to adjust the back legs. Use the level to determine which leg is higher. Lift the machine up a little bit and slide a piece of wood underneath. Adjust the higher leg in the back to make it lower using the same bolt and tools that you used on the front.[11]
- Tap the self-leveling support if the rear legs aren't adjustable. If you tilt your machine and discover that your back legs are indeed self-adjusting, lint and rust may have built up on the rear legs to keep them from moving. Tap the exposed legs lightly with the back of your wrench or channel locks to shake the rust and dirt off.[12]
- You can also spray the legs with a little bit of machine or hinge lubricant. Wipe off the excess lubricant after you've applied it to the leg near the connection to the frame.
- Lower the machine and try running an empty cycle. Remove the wooden block and lower your machine back down. Slide the machine back into place and run the machine while it's empty. If the machine doesn't shake, you've successfully levelled it. If it continues to shake, you probably need to replace the shock absorbers.[13]
[Edit]Replacing the Shock Absorbers - Order replacement shock absorbers from your machine's manufacturer. Use the model number and brand listed on your machine to determine what kind of washing machine you're using. Contact your manufacturer and order some replacement shock absorbers.[14]
- The shock absorbers are small coils or pistons that absorb the vibration from your drum when it's spinning. They also connect the drum to the frame of the machine. There are either 2, 4, or 5 of them depending on your model.
- The model and brand are usually listed on the front, but they may be printed on a metal plate on the back of the machine or inside of the door.
- Some newer models require a professional to install new shock absorbers. Read your machine's manual to see if you can take the front panel off to access the shock absorbers.
- Disconnect the water and turn off the electricity. Find the supply lines for cold and hot water on the back of your machine. Twist the valve on each line so that it is closed. Turn the electricity for your machine off by unplugging it.[15]
- The water lines are usually thin and made of rubber. They often have a blue and red valve on top of them near the connection to the frame.
- Remove the front panel for a front-load washer. Ask your manufacturer or consult your machine's manual to determine how to remove your front panel. Usually this involves removing the rubber seal around your drum and unscrewing several screws under the panel before lifting it up.[16]
- Remove the bottom panel on a top-load washer. You'll have to tilt the machine on its side to do this. Keep the case from getting scratched by laying a rug or towel out before doing this.
- Unscrew the shock absorbers with a wrench or channel locks. Find the shock absorbers by looking for rods connecting the drum to the frame. Unscrew the bolts connecting each rod to the drum and frame. Remove your rods and set them aside. They may not appear to be broken, but the inner coil in one of these absorbers may be broken.[17]
- Some shock absorbers have pins locking them to the drum and the frame. If any of the pins fell out, simply slide them back in. This was probably the cause of your shaking.
- If you have 5 absorbers, 1 of them is probably in the back. You may not be able to reach this piece without professional assistance.
- Insert your new shock absorbers and tighten them. Put your replacement parts in the corresponding locations. Screw each one into place by tightening the bolt after you've slid it on to the threading. Tighten the bolts with your wrench or channel locks by turning each one clockwise until it won't turn anymore.[18]
- Reinstall the panels and run a test wash. Put your panel back and screw in the corresponding screws. Put the rubber seal back and open your water lines. Plug the machine in and set it to run a basic wash cycle. If you hear rattling inside the machine, you probably missed a bolt for a shock absorber. If the machine still wobbles but doesn't rattle, you probably need to replace the drum.[19]
- Replacing the drum in a washing machine is often not worth it, and you should consult a washing machine repair company to determine the price of the repair. It is not typically a problem that a non-professional can solve.
- Put a sheet of plywood underneath your washer and dryer if your dryer is shaking too, since this probably means that the problem is an uneven floor. Purchase a flat piece of plywood from your local hardware store. Use a level on each section of the surface before buying it to ensure that it is flat. Unplug your washer and dryer and turn the water supply lines off by turning the valves closed. Slide the plywood underneath to give the washer and dryer a firmer platform. This is really hard to do without help. Consider enlisting the help of a friend to assist you with the heavy lifting.[20]
- If your house is incredibly old and your washer isn't in the basement, it may be a weight problem. Go the floor underneath the washer and dryer to see if it buckles when the machine shakes. If they do, call a contractor—the joists in your floor probably need to be replaced.
[Edit]Things You'll Need [Edit]Performing Quick Fixes [Edit]Levelling a Washer [Edit]Replacing the Shock Absorbers - Channel locks or wrench
- Replacement absorbers
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