| How to Select a Surfboard Posted: 28 Feb 2019 04:00 PM PST Whether you're an experienced surfer or just getting started, choosing the right surfboard for you makes all the difference in being able to ride waves successfully. There are many different types of surfboards meant for different skill levels, weights, and conditions - but just like in any sport, if you don't have the proper equipment tailored to you, you're gonna have a bad time. EditChoosing a Style - Choose a longboard or funboard to learn the basics of surfing. A longboard is about 8 to 11 feet long and serves as a fantastic starting point for a novice due to its balance and ability to catch smaller waves. A funboard is a little smaller, at 7 to 9 feet long, but is wider than most other surfboards, giving it good stability.
- A funboard is considered easier to maneuver than a longboard, but longboards are the best surfboard for a total beginner.[1]
- Try a shortboard or fish board if you want to tackle more aggressive waves. A shortboard, at 5 to 7 feet long, has a pointed front end and is meant for shredding rough and aggressive waves. A fish board is even smaller than a shortboard but wider, with a dual-pointed rear resembling a large fin, and makes turns both quickly and smoothly.
- If you are just moving beyond a beginner board, try a fish board before a shortboard. You will get used to the maneuverability of a shorter surfboard while adjusting away from long ones.[2]
- Test a hybrid board to combine the aspects of two boards into one. A hybrid board is a combination of any two boards that are similar.
- A shortboard and a fish board hybrid is a common combination, making the shortboard more balanced and able to turn without sacrificing speed.
- A longboard and a funboard hybrid can make it easier to find stability on a heavier board, and can also serve as a good transition from a longboard to another style.
- Paddle a SUP instead, a board you can use in any body of water. A SUP is a stable, standing paddle board that can be used to surf very small waves and, with skill, surf larger waves. You can use it in freshwater too, so if you have the surfing itch and live nowhere near an ocean, you can bring this to the lake to start learning.
EditConsidering the Specifics - Ask yourself what conditions and waves you plan to surf. When shopping for a new board, the types of waves you intend to ride and the conditions of the locations you plan on surfing at play a role in what choices you should make about your next surfboard. You don't want to bring a sup to the infamous Mavericks at Half Moon Bay, CA for example.[3]
- Smaller surfboards are great for tackling midsize to large waves and for maneuvering quickly in tall and narrow waves.
- Large surfboards can help to keep you in the water when the weather starts turning sour, and are great for small to medium sized waves.
- Decide whether you want your board's material to be epoxy, polyester, or foam. Most commonly surfboards are made of one of three materials: epoxy,polyester, and foam.[4] There are certainly other materials used in surfboards, such as balsa wood, but these are far less common than these three materials.
- An epoxy surfboard is very light and can handle high speeds
- A polyester surfboard is affordable and can handle unpredictable wave patterns
- A foam surfboard is usually recommended to beginners for its low risk of injury and its comfort on the water.
- Consider the setup of fins on your surfboard. Beginners don't need to worry too much about fin placement and the tail, but if you want to advance your surfing ability, knowing how to alter the shape of your board to suit your needs can get you to the next level of surfmanship. There are usually up to 5 fins on a surfboard, depending on what types of waves you plan on tackling, with three fins being the most common setup.[5]
- 1 and 2 fin surfboards can't handle large and giant waves
- 4 and 5 fin surfboards have a harder time with small waves than medium-sized ones.[6]
- Look for surfboards slightly larger than you think you need. Large surfboards tend to be more stable, making it easier for you to get to the waves and to be able to keep your balance while surfing. Professional surfer Jesse Merle-Jones suggests that most people who have issues with their surfboard simply have one that is too small.[7]
EditPurchasing a Surfboard - Get to know local surfboard shapers. Local shapers can customize a surfboard to your specifications and needs, and knowing a handful of local shapers can open up your options for a new surfboard immensely. Having a close relationship with a shaper who knows your weight and preferences for surfing can make the difference in buying a good board and buying a great one.
- If you know a shaper who is located near a favorite surfing spot of yours, they may have specific recommendations for surfing in the area.
- Try using a rental version of the board style you want. This can show you whether you really are able to handle a shortboard or a fish board, or can lead you towards an option that feels right for you. Don't be afraid to shell out a few dollars now to test and learn different surfboard styles before committing to a much larger investment down the road.
- Test the board in the best conditions you possibly can. This will help you get a feel for riding the new board without having to worry about inclement weather or unpredictable waters. Find a location with good weather and look out for groups of other surfers in the water to find a good spot to catch waves repeatedly and see if it works for you. If you can catch waves, stay balanced, and feel comfortable riding it, congratulations!
- If your board doesn't seem as comfortable or functional as you thought, you may not be able to return it, but you can often take it to a shaper to get it refurbished.[8]
- Be honest about your weight, your level of fitness, and your level of skill when buying a surfboard. You may be disappointed with the effectiveness of your surfboard if you don't have it tailored to your physical specifications.
- Unlike many sports, using the equipment that surfing professionals use is not recommended. Just because you have the same surfboard as Kelly Slater, it doesn't mean you will magically be able to surf like he does, and you will likely find yourself disappointed and unable to take to the waves with it at all.
EditSources and Citations
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| How to Take in the Waist on a Pair of Jeans Posted: 28 Feb 2019 08:00 AM PST If your jeans gap slightly or are a little too big at the waist, you may be able to fix the issue by taking in the waist yourself. If you are an experienced seamstress, take in the waistband in the back for a professional look. For an easier sewing project, try taking in the waist on the sides instead. Even if you don't have the skills or patience to sew your jeans, you can still tighten the waistband without sewing by using an elastic band. EditAdjusting the Back of the Jeans - Pull the waistband snug from the back and pin it in place. Put your jeans on and pull the back of the waistband with one hand to adjust it to the right size. Pinch the extra fabric of the waistband with your free hand and secure it with a large safety pin. Pinch just below the safety pin to pull out the excess fabric and secure it with a straight pin. Continue pinching and pinning down the back seam until there is no more excess to pin and your jeans fit well in the waist and hips.[1]
- Be careful not to catch your underwear (or your skin!) when you are placing the pins.
- Try to pin as far down as you can along the seat of the jeans. The further you go down, the less noticeable the transition from the original thread and your new thread will be.[2]
- Mark the inside of the jeans along the pinned seam and take out the pins. Take the jeans off carefully. Place them face up on a flat surface and pull the front waistband down so you can see the inside of the back waistband where you've placed the pins. Mark along the center of the pinned seam with fabric chalk, making sure that it leaves a line on both sides of the seam. Then, take out the pins.
- If you don't have fabric chalk handy, you can also use a highlighter.[3]
- Cut out the waistline stitching between your markings, plus on each side. Use a seam ripper to take out the top and bottom row of stitches along the waistband. Remove all the stitching of the two rows on the waistband between the chalk marks, plus on each side. Leave the stitching along the top edge of waistband and the seat of the jeans for now.
- To make sure you don't rip out too many stitches, try cutting the first and last stitch you would like to take out. Then, pull at the loose threads to take out all the stitching in between.[4]
- Remove the belt loop(s). Take off any belt loops between your two chalk lines. To do this, carefully clip away the thread attaching the belt loop(s) to the waistband.
- If there are any leftover threads from the belt loop after you remove it, leave them in place. Sewing over these when you reattach it later will help disguise the alteration.[5]
- Take out the stitching from the top edge of the waistband and from the center of the seat. Carefully cut the stitching on the top edge of the waistband along the same length where you removed the two rows of waistband stitching. Separate the two layers of the waistband. Use a seam ripper to take out the row of stitching on the inside of the jeans from the waistband down to about below your chalk lines. Remove the corresponding stitching on the outside of the jeans as well to fully separate the seat of the jeans.
- It may make it easier and more precise to cut the first and last stitch you would like to take out, and then pull at the loose threads to remove all the stitching in between.[6]
- Fold the inner layer of the waistband and sew across it with a straight stitch. Fold the waistband across the center back line of the jeans, the midpoint between the two chalk lines. Fold with the right sides (the sides facing towards the outside of the jeans) facing each other, so the folded edge is facing you. Sew where the new altered waistband meets from the top to the bottom of the waistband with a single straight stitch.[7]
- To reduce the bulkiness of the new waistband, you can cut off the extra fabric outside of your stitches. Leave about of fabric outside the stitches. Press the cut ends of the fabric with an iron so they open up on each side of the seam.[8]
- You may find it easier to pin where you would like to sew and draw a chalk line as well to help keep you on track.[9]
- Repeat the alteration with the outer waistband. Take in the outer waistband, using the inner waistband as a guide. Fold it in the middle, sew it, then trim and press the edges.
- Sew the seat of the jeans back together with a single straight stitch. Pin the seat together by turning the right sides (the outside of the jeans) to face each other. Pin along the chalk lines you made earlier. Sew the seat together with a single straight stitch next to the pins.
- It may help to take a hammer and pound the original jean seam you are sewing across in this step. This will flatten out the layers of fabric there and make it easier to sew across.[10]
- Try on your jeans after you sew the seat to make sure the seams look straight and properly positioned. If anything looks funny, use your seam ripper to take out the seams and resew that section.[11]
- Sew topstitching with a single straight stitch on the outside of your jeans. To give your altered jeans the same outward appearance again, use topstitching thread to sew from the existing stitching lines up to the waistband in two rows, matching the stitching on the rest of the jeans. Overlap a few stitches with the old stitch line to make it blend together better.[12]
- Using a longer stitch length setting on your sewing machine can make the topstitching look more professional. Try stitch length.[13]
- If you have a double needle for your sewing machine, you can also use that to sew both lines of topstitching at once, instead of doing the two lines separately.[14]
- If you can't find topstitching thread, you can also try to use two strands of all-purpose thread at the same time to get a chunkier look that will better match the original topstitching.[15]
- If your jeans are very worn along the seat area and the topstitching you put in looks too new and out of place, try roughening it up a bit with a nail file.[16]
- Sew the belt loop back on with single straight stitch. Sew the top and bottom of the belt loop back onto the waistband in the center. Be sure to match the thread color of the other belt loops.
- It may help to hammer where you will sew first, since you will be sewing through many layers of denim.[17]
EditTaking in the Sides of the Jeans - Put your jeans on inside out and pinch the waist at the sides until it fits. Turn your jeans inside out and put them on. Pinch the waistband on each side until you get the right fit in the waist. Try to pinch an equal amount on both sides so that your jeans will sit evenly after the alteration.
- You can secure the pinched fabric with a large safety pin to help you as you proceed to the next step.[18]
- Secure the excess fabric on both sides with straight pins. Carefully put the pins in the waistband on each side where you have pinched the fabric, as close to your waist as possible to keep the jeans snug. Be careful not to pin your finger. Keeping pinning down the sides of the jeans where you can pinch out loose fabric. Pin as far down as you would like, depending on how you would like the jeans to fit.
- You can pinch and pin just along the waist, down to the mid-thigh, or even all the way down to your knee if you want a extra skinny fit.[19]
- Sew next to your pins with a single straight stitch. Carefully take your jeans off. Sew each side of the jeans along the pinned line. Use a sturdy denim needle, a longer stitch length than normal, and higher tension. Go over the stitches again with a backstitch (reversing back over your stitches) at the beginning and end to secure the stitching in place.[20]
- Try a stitch length of 2 and a thread tension of 4 to start. If that doesn't work, you can easily take out the stitching with a seam ripper and try again with different settings. Don't be afraid to experiment until you are happy with how your seam looks.
- Turn your jeans right side out and try them on. Try your jeans on again and check the fit. You can always take your stitching out and try again if there is something off. If you are happy with the fit, but feel like excess fabric inside the jeans is too bulky, you can cut it out. Leave about a border outside the stitching to prevent the fabric from unravelling. Otherwise, you can leave the fabric in.
- You can also fold the excess fabric to one side and sew the end down so it lies flat inside when you wear them.[21]
EditUsing an Elastic Band - Pinch the extra fabric at the center back of the waistband. Put your jeans on. Pinch the excess fabric in the back of the waistband so that the jeans fit snugly.
- Ironing the waistband before putting your jeans on can help make your measurements and fit more accurate.[22]
- Mark each side of the pinched fabric on the inside of the jeans. Keep the fabric pinched. Use fabric chalk or a highlighter to make a small line inside the jeans on each side of the pinched fabric where you will want your new, smaller waistband to touch.
- Cut two slits in the inner waistband to allow the elastic through. Remove the jeans and lay them with the front side facing up. Pull the front of the jeans down to reveal the back of the waistband. Cut out a few stitches from the bottom of the waistband below each of your two highlighter marks. Use scissors to cut a slit from one of the broken seams to just before the top of the waistband. Only cut through the inner layer of the waistband. Cut another slit on the other side.[23]
- The slit should be at least long to accommodate the elastic.
- Prepare a elastic band. Measure the elastic band and cut it so it is slightly smaller than the distance between the two slits on the waistband. Attach a safety pin to each end of the band.
- The shorter your elastic band, the tighter it will pull the waistband.
- Slip the elastic band through the slits and attach it to the jeans. To do this, attach one end of the elastic band with a safety pin to the waistband outside one of the cuts. Thread the other end of the elastic through to the other slit in the waistband. Attach it to the outside of the slit with another safety pin.[24]
- You may need to cut out the tag from the jeans if you cannot push the safety pin through.
- Only stick the safety pins through the inner layer of the waistband so won't show from the outside.
- If you want to alter the waistband again later, you can always use a looser or tighter elastic band.
- You can also sew the elastic in place with a single straight stitch instead of using safety pins if you want a more permanent solution.
EditThings You'll Need EditAdjusting the Back of the Jeans - Heavy duty safety pin
- Straight pins
- Sewing machine with a strong denim needle
- Seam ripper
- Marking chalk
- Measuring tool
- Hammer or rubber mallet
- All-purpose thread
- Topstitching thread, in a color that matches the stitching on the waistband.
- Iron
EditTaking in the Sides of the Jeans - Straight pins
- Sewing machine with a strong denim needle
- All-purpose thread
- Iron
EditUsing an Elastic Band - 2 safety pins
- elastic band
- Fabric scissors
- Highlighter
- Seam ripper
- Iron
- It's best to alter a pair of jeans when it is freshly washed or dried. A pair you've been wearing all day will be little stretched out and that can throw off your alteration.[25]
- It's not a good idea to take in the waist more than because it can change the pocket positioning and affect how the jeans fit in the hips.[26]
- Don't try to alter your favorite pair of jeans until you have practiced a bit with other pairs first.[27]
EditSources and Citations
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| How to Create a Butterfly Garden Posted: 28 Feb 2019 12:00 AM PST A butterfly garden is a great way to attract a variety of different butterflies to your yard. Not only are butterflies are delicate and beautiful to look at, but since they pollinate plants, they're actually really important to our ecosystem, too. When you're planning your garden, research the plants that butterflies in your area prefer. Be sure to include nectar plants for their food, as well as host plants for caterpillars! EditChoosing the Plants - Research the species of butterflies that are native to your area. In order for the plants in your garden to attract butterflies, it's essential to understand which species might be living nearby. To determine this, you can research online, read a butterfly field guide, or talk to local horticulturists and butterfly gardeners. If there's a local butterfly garden in your area, you may want to plan a trip to see what's planted there, as well![1]
- For a map of butterflies found in each U.S. state, visit https://www.thebutterflysite.com/butterfly-gardening-by-area.shtml.
- The butterflies in your area will typically feed on plants that are native to your region.
- Once you know which butterflies can be found in your area, use that information to decide which plants to include in your garden.
- Plant a variety of nectar plants for your butterflies to feed on. Adult butterflies get most of their food and moisture from the nectar produced by certain flowers. While some species prefer some plants over others, butterflies will often feed on any nectar-producing plants, especially those with brightly-colored flowers.[2]
- Some popular nectar-producing plants that will attract butterflies include purple coneflowers, milkweed, butterfly weed, asters, marigold, zinnia, cosmos, and lantana.[3]
- Choose host plants where your butterflies can lay eggs. Once you identify the butterflies that are native to your area, research where they prefer to lay their eggs. Then, include those host plants when you're planning what you want in your garden. While adult butterflies aren't always picky about their sources of nectar, they are extremely particular about where they lay their eggs. That's because butterflies usually lay their eggs on the plants that their larvae feed on, and that usually consists of only 1 or a very few specific plants.[4]
- Adult butterflies typically lay their eggs on different plants than the ones they feed from themselves.
- For example, a monarch butterfly will only lay her eggs on milkweed, since that is the only food a monarch caterpillar will eat.
- Black swallowtails prefer to lay their eggs on dill, parsley, fennel, and carrot.[5]
- A Gorgone Checkerspot lays its eggs on the sunflower plant.
- Opt for plants with wide, flat clusters of brightly-colored, fragrant flowers. Not all of the plants in your garden have to be specific to the local butterflies in your area. Butterflies are attracted to bright colors, so consider that when you're choosing plants, but you can include anything you wish in your garden. If you're adding in more flowers, keep in mind that butterflies prefer plants with large clusters of blooms, since this provides an easy base for them to land on, especially if the clusters grow flat, like goldenrods, zinnias, verbena, or Spirea.[6]
- Butterflies especially like purple, pink, orange, and yellow flowers. However, some butterflies can't see the color red, so be sure that's not the only color you plant![7]
- The fragrance of the flowers will also help attract the butterflies to the garden.
- Include a variety of heights, colors, and shapes in your garden. Planting a diverse selection of plants will help attract more butterflies to your garden. If you plant a variety of colorful blooms, the butterflies will be more likely to see the garden from a distance. Also, you'll be more likely to see multiple species of butterflies if you have a more diverse selection of food and host plants for them to enjoy.[8]
- A variety of plant heights will help your butterflies feel more sheltered.
- Leave a nearby section of wild grass and wildflowers, if it's possible. If you have the space, consider leaving a patch of ground somewhere near your garden where you grow the natural grass, wildflowers, and undergrowth that would occur in the wild. During periods of wind and inclement weather, butterflies typically take shelter in tall grass and shrubs. This patch will provide a natural hiding spot to keep your butterflies safe.[9]
- They'll also hide here if any predators approach.
- If this isn't possible, you may want to include a butterfly house in your garden instead.
EditPicking the Location and Planting the Garden - Choose a spot that gets at least 6 hours of sunlight a day. As you're planning your garden, spend a clear day watching the way the sun travels across your yard. Every hour or so, take note of which areas are in the sun, and which are shaded. Then, pick one of the sunniest spots as the location for your garden.[10]
- Butterflies are cold-blooded, so they require sunlight to warm them up throughout the day.
- Pick a location that's sheltered from strong wind. If the butterflies are exposed to high winds, they'll spend most of their energy just trying not to get blown around. Place your butterfly garden near a wall, a fence, or a wooded area to help them conserve energy so they can eat and lay their eggs.[11]
- For example, if you have a shed and your area is frequently subjected to cold north winds, you could place your garden on the south side of the shed.
- Place the shorter plants in front with taller varieties in back. The butterflies will have an easier time reaching their food if you arrange your plants from shortest to tallest, almost like stair steps. Place larger bushes and shrubs in the back, with shorter flowers in the very front.[12]
- If you don't have room to plant shrubs, try placing an arbor with vines near the back of your garden.
- Plant your flowers in large groups. Butterflies are pretty small, but they prefer big clumps of flowers. Try to group your flowers together in large masses. The butterflies will be able to see the garden from a distance, and you'll get more visitors to enjoy.[13]
- It's fine to include different, non-butterfly plants in your garden. However, try to keep the flowers close together, as this will make feeding easier for the butterflies.
- Group flowers that will bloom at the same time. To make the most of your butterfly display, research what time of year each plant will bloom. Then, create sections out of the plants with the same flowering window so you'll have bright groups of blooms opening at about the same time.[14]
- For instance, if some of your plants open in the late spring and others will bloom into the early fall, you could group your spring plants on one side of the garden, and your late-bloomers on the other side.
- If you have a small garden, you might not need to section it off.
EditAdding Other Butterfly-Friendly Elements - Include 1 or 2 large, flat rocks in your butterfly garden. Butterflies love to soak up the sun while resting on a nice, warm rock, especially early in the morning. By including these rocks in your garden, the butterflies will have a chance to get warmed up before they start feeding for the day.[15]
- Try to place the rocks so the sun hits them first thing in the morning or late in the afternoon. This is when butterflies need the most warmth.
- Provide a patch of wet sand where the butterflies can drink. Butterflies typically won't try to drink out of a deep water source like a pond or a birdbath. Instead, they prefer to get their moisture from damp earth. To help ensure your butterflies have plenty to drink, create a small area filled with sand, then pour water onto the sand whenever it seems dry.[16]
- If you don't have a lot of space, you can fill a shallow saucer with sand, then add a little water every day or so, or as needed.
- Set up a butterfly box if you want to give extra shelter. A butterfly box is similar to a bird house, but it has slatted openings. You can hang your butterfly box in a tree, on the side of a shed, or place it on a stake if you'd like to put one in your garden. It will provide shelter to your butterflies during rough weather or at night when they're sleeping.[17]
- The slatted openings should keep birds and bats from getting into the butterfly box.
- If you have a large garden, you may want to include more than one box.
- Put out a tray of fruit scraps if you want to provide extra food. While your butterflies should get all of the nutrients they need from the nectar plants in your garden, they may enjoy an extra treat if you'd like to include one. Early in the morning, place out a small tray filled with cut-up pieces of fruit, including the flesh and the peels..[18]
- Butterflies like Admirals and Red-Spotted Purples especially love sliced oranges, pears, or melons.
- Hang a butterfly feeder in your garden for a steady source of nectar. If you want to ensure your butterflies always have something to eat, even when your garden isn't in bloom, you can hang a butterfly feeder in your garden. Fill the feeder with nectar, then place the feeder on a stake or hang it from a tree near your garden.[19]
- You can find butterfly feeders and nectar at most garden supply stores.
- You can also make your own butterfly food by mixing 1 part sugar with 1 part water. Bring the mixture to a boil, then wait for it to cool before you add it to the feeder.
- A hummingbird feeder won't work for butterflies, since those are designed for the birds' long, narrow beaks.
- Unfortunately, many species of butterflies have suffered declining populations in recent years. By providing them with a safe place to eat and lay their eggs, your butterfly garden could help sustain your local butterfly numbers!
- Butterflies are very delicate and are extremely susceptible to being harmed by pesticides. Whenever possible, use organic pest control solutions instead of harsh chemicals.
EditRelated wikiHows EditSources and Citations EditQuick Summary
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