How to Make Bedspreads Posted: 08 Dec 2020 04:00 PM PST If you're tired of searching for a bedspread that matches your style, sew your own unique spread. Bedspreads are great projects for sewers with a little experience since you can truly customize the look. All you need is fabric, batting, a sewing machine, and about an hour to create a hand-sewn bedspread. [Edit]Cutting the Materials - Buy stylish fabric to fit the measurements of your bed. Although you can find narrower bolts, choose a comfortable fabric that's at least wide regardless of the bedspread size. For an easy spread, buy 2 sets of flat sheets that fit your bed. Choose a fabric that you can machine wash and dry. Cotton, wool, or acrylic blends are all popular fabrics for bedspreads and they wear well. To use fabric from the bolt, buy:[1]
- Twin and full: for the top and for the bottom
- Queen: for the top and for the bottom
- King: for the top and for the bottom
- Cut 2 or 3 panels of fabric for each side of the bedspread. Since your fabric bolt is wide, sew 2 panels together for each side of a twin or full-size bedspread. For a queen or king, use 3 horizontal panels for each side.[2]
- Cut the panels long for twin or full-sized bedspreads.
- Make each panel long for queen or king-sized bedspreads.
- Line up the panels and use fusible bonding tape to iron them together. If you're making a twin or full-sized spread, place 2 of the long panels next to each other pattern-side up so the panels line up. For a queen or twin-sized spread, lay 3 of the panels together pattern-side up so the long sides touch. Then, lay a strip of fusible bonding tape along 1 side of each panel where it touches the other panel. Overlap the other panel and iron it so they fuse together.[3]
- If you don't want raw edges showing, tuck the side of the top panel under by before you iron it onto the other panel.
- If you're using fabric with a pattern, line up the pattern before you join the panels.
- Sew the top fabric panels together. Take the panel pieces to your sewing machine and arrange them so the pattern faces down. Zigzag stitch down the side of the panels where you fused them with the bonding tape. Repeat this for the other panel if you're making a queen or king-sized bedspread.[4]
- Use thread that matches the color of your fabric so it doesn't stand out.
- If you're using thick fabric, trim the excess fabric from the seam so your bedspread isn't bulky.
- Cut the fabric piece to fit the size of your bed. Spread the assembled fabric flat and get out fabric chalk and a yardstick. Mark the dimensions on the fabric and use scissors to cut out the top fabric piece. Cut the piece:[5]
- Sew the bottom panels together to make the underside of the bedspread. Set aside the top piece while you repeat the steps using the fabric that you chose for the bottom of the bedspread. Arrange 2 or 3 panel pieces pattern-side up and fuse them together. Then, make straight stitches down the sides of the panels to join them as you did for the top fabric piece.[6]
- Once you've finished preparing the top and bottom fabric pieces, you'll just need to get out enough batting for filling the comforter.
- Unroll quilt batting and cut it to the same size as the bedspread. Buy a package of quilt batting according to your bed size and unroll it on your work surface. Spread 1 of your bedspread fabric pieces on the batting and cut the excess batting from the sides so the batting is the same size as the fabric. For a warmer blanket, use more than 1 layer of batting.[7]
- You can buy batting made from cotton, polyester, or bamboo, for instance. Cotton and bamboo are great natural choices, while polyester is easy to find and inexpensive. Wool batting is a good choice if you want a very warm bedspread.
- Keep in mind that more layers are more likely to shift around so it's important to sew over the blanket to keep the batting in place.
[Edit]Sewing a Basic Bedspread - Stack the batting on the 2 fabric pieces and pin the sides in place. Lay the batting piece flat on your work surface and put the top bedspread piece directly on it with the pattern facing up. Line up the sides with the batting. Then, place the bottom bedspread piece on top so the pattern faces down and line up the sides. Insert sewing pins along the edges of the bedspread so the pins go through all 3 layers.[8]
- Put the sewing pins about every along the sides.
- Sew straight stitches around 3 sides of the bedspread. Take the bedspread to the sewing machine and sew from the raw edge. Make straight stitches down the long side, 1 short end, and up the other long side.[9]
- It's important to leave 1 of the short ends open so you can turn the bedspread right-side out.
- Turn the bedspread right-side out and pin the raw edge closed. Reach into the bedspread and grab hold of the fabric. Flip it out so the batting is in the middle and the fashion fabric encloses it. Then, smooth out the bedspread so the batting is even and tuck the raw edges under by . Insert sewing pins every along the last side.[10]
- Before you pin the edge of the spread, push into the corners with your fingers or a knitting needle to give them sharp definition.
- Top stitch around the entire bedspread so the edges lay flat. Start sewing along the unfinished edge that you just pinned and make straight stitches that are away from the edge. Keep topstitching around the other sides that you already finished and keep close to the edge to stabilize it.[11]
- Remember to remove sewing pins as you work so you don't damage your sewing machine.
- Stitch across the bedspread if you want to secure the batting. Batting can clump a little after you wash and dry the bedspread a few times. To keep it in place, straight stitch across the bedspread in any design you like. To make a simple grid, sew 3 or 4 straight lines across the length of the bedspread. Leave an equal amount of space between each line. Then, make 5 or 6 straight lines across the short side of the spread with equal space between them.[12]
- If you'd like the topstitching to stand out instead of blend in, use a different color of thread. For example, if you have a cream-colored bedspread, use burgundy or cornflower blue thread that compliments the fabric.
- Attach a ruffle to the ends and sides of your bedspread for a frilled look. Buy a dust ruffle that fits your bed and cut away the flat smooth part that covers the top of the bed. Lay the assembled bedspread so the back faces up and line up the raw edges of the ruffle with the sides of the spread so the ruffles extend out. Then, use a zigzag stitch to sew the ruffle to the sides of the bedspread.[13]
- Cut a slit in each corner to make a fitted split corner bedspread. Bedspreads usually shift around a little, but if you want yours to stay in place, make it hug the corners of your bed. Lay your assembled bedspread on the bed so the sides fall evenly and cut a diagonal line from a bottom corner up to the top of the mattress. Then, tuck the raw edges under by and hem them before repeating this for each corner of the spread.[14]
- If you don't want to eyeball the cutting, trace the line with fabric chalk so you have a guideline.
- If you're concerned that the fabric will shrink, wash and dry it before sewing the bedspread.
[Edit]Things You'll Need - Fabric
- Fusible bonding tape
- Quilt batting
- Scissors
- Ruler
- Sewing machine
- Sewing pins
- Iron and ironing board
[Edit]Related wikiHows [Edit]References |
How to Fix a Rubbing Door Posted: 08 Dec 2020 08:00 AM PST We know that it's pretty frustrating when you can't open a door smoothly because it gets stuck in the frame. Your door might rub against the frame if it's sagging or when it's just a little too large, but luckily there are some really easy repairs. Adjusting your hinges will solve most of your problems for any type of door, but you may need to trim it if those don't work. We'll walk you through some of the most common solutions so your door opens and closes smoothly! [Edit]Simple Hinge Fixes - Tighten the screws in the hinges if they feel loose. Over time, the screws in your hinges might come loose and cause your door to sag.[1] If the top corner on the latch side of the door scrapes against the frame, then tighten the top hinge. For a door that rubs against the bottom of the frame on the latch side, then screw in the bottom hinge more.[2]
- Make sure you use a screwdriver that properly fits into the screws. If you use one that's too large, you could strip the screw and make it more difficult to use.
- You can check for loose hinges and screws by opening the door halfway and pulling the handle straight up. That way, you can see which hinges move around.
- If the screws don't stay tightened because the holes are stripped, keep reading on for a simple fix.
- Place a screw in the top hinge if the jamb bulges. Some builders use screws that are long, so it's more likely for the jamb to come loose. A longer screw will pull the jamb in tighter so it's not scraping the door. Open your door and place a shim that's thick on the floor underneath it. Take out any one of the screws from the top hinge using a screwdriver. Fit a wood or deck screw into the hole and screw it in until it's flush with the hinge.[3]
- The longer screw will pull the door jamb back against the frame so your door doesn't rub against it.
- Switch a bent top hinge with the straight bottom one if your door sags. Over time, a heavier door can slightly bend the top hinge and cause it to sag. If this happens, open your door and tap out the pins in the hinges with a hammer and screwdriver. Pull the door straight out of the frame so you can access the hinges. Unscrew the top and bottom hinges from both the door and the frame. Reattach the bottom hinge on top and use the slightly bent one on the bottom.[4]
- The bottom hinge usually stays straighter since it's not supporting the weight of the door as much.
- If your hinge is extremely deformed or broken, then you'll have to replace it entirely.
- Fill in stripped holes with a golf tee and wood glue if the hinges still feel loose. Tap the hinge pins out from your door using a hammer and screwdriver. Pull your door straight out of the frame. Then, unscrew the hinges to take them off of the frame. Cover a wooden golf tee with wood glue and push it as far into the loose screw hole as you can. Score the tee with a utility knife and break it off so it's flush with the frame. Once the glue dries, install the hinges and screw into the golf tee.[5]
- If you've already tried tightening your hinges and they're still loose, this fix will give the screws a firmer grip.
- Put a shim under the hinges when a door hangs unevenly. Remove the hinge pins from the door and lift it out of the frame. Next, unscrew the hinges from the frame, but leave the ones attached to your door. Trace the shape of the door hinge on a piece of cardboard and cut it out with a utility knife. Put the cardboard shim in the frame's mortise, which is the recessed area where you place the hinge. Set the hinge on top of the shim and screw it back in. Try reinstalling your door and checking if it opens and closes smoothly.[6]
- When it scrapes the bottom corner on the latch side, then shim the top hinge.
- If your door scrapes the top corner, add a shim behind the bottom hinge.
- If your door still rubs, you can add another shim under the hinge, but don't let the front of your hinge extend past the mortise. Otherwise, your door will get looser over time.
[Edit]Wood Door Trimming - Mark the area where the door rubs against the frame. If you're sure your hinges and door are hanging straight but it's still rubbing, then it's time to trim it smaller. Open and close your door a few times so you can find out where it's rubbing against the jamb. Draw a line on the side of the door where it's scraping along the frame.[7]
- Your door jamb should always have about of space on each side.
- If you have trouble finding where the door rubs against the frame, take a piece of cardboard that's about thick, and slide it in the crack between the door and the frame. Make your marks where the cardboard gets stuck.
- Remove the hinge pins to take the door out. Close your door and stand on the side where the hinge pins stick out from the frame. Position a screwdriver on the bottom of the pin and lightly tap it with a hammer so it pops out. Pull the pin out from the top of the hinge. Then remove the pin from the other hinge so you can slide your door out from the frame.[8]
- It doesn't matter which hinge pin you remove first.
- Take the hinges off of the door if you need to shorten the width. When your door is too wide for the frame, always trim from the side with the hinges since the latch mechanism can be hard to reinstall. Use a screwdriver to remove the hinges from the door and set them aside.[9]
- If your door rubs against the top or bottom, you don't need to take out any of the hardware.
- Store the hinges and screws in a cup or plastic bag so you don't misplace any of the pieces.
- Run a planer along the edges if you only need to remove . Hold the door steady between your legs or lay it across some sawhorses so it doesn't shift around. Set your planer against the edge that you're trimming and apply light pressure as you push it along the wood. If you're planing the latch side, follow along with the wood grain. For the top or bottom edges, work from the edges toward the center. Only remove about of wood at a time so you don't cut off too much.[10]
- If you apply a lot of pressure to the planer, you could gouge deeper into the wood and damage your door.
- Hollow-core doors have about of solid wood at the top and bottom that you can trim.[11]
- Test the door to see if it swings freely. After you trim your door, reattach any hardware that you removed and position the door back in the frame. Push the pins back through the hinges on the door so it hangs freely. Try opening and closing the door to see if it moves easily. If it doesn't rub the edge anymore, then you can move on.[12]
- If your door still rubs the frame, make note of where it still scrapes and take it down again. Use your planer to smooth out any edges that are still raised.
- Paint or refinish the cut edge of the door. The cut edge of your door might stand out if the natural wood is a different color. Take the door back down by removing the hinge pins. Use the same paint or stain you used on the door so it blends in. Apply 1–2 coats and let it dry completely so your door looks uniform.[13]
- If you cut the top or bottom of the door, you should still refinish the edge even when you can't see it. Otherwise, moisture could get into the door and cause it to swell again.
- Rehang the door back in the frame. Hold the door back in the jamb so its hinges line up with the ones in the frame. Push the pins back through the slots in the hinge so your door stays secured in place. Your door should open and close smoothly when you're finished![14]
- Sometimes doors can swell when it's humid out since they absorb moisture. Try running an air conditioner or dehumidifier to see if it helps your problem.[15]
[Edit]Warnings - Always use caution when you work with power tools so you don't get injured.
- If your door still doesn't work properly, your foundation may have settled and made your frame crooked. Call a professional foundation repair specialist to check the problem.[16]
[Edit]Things You'll Need [Edit]Simple Hinge Fixes - Screwdriver
- wood or deck screws
- Golf tee
- Wood glue
- Utility knife
- Cardboard
- Pencil
[Edit]Door Trimming - Pencil
- Hammer
- Screwdriver
- Planer
- Circular saw
- Utility knife
- Paint or stain
[Edit]Related wikiHows [Edit]References |
How to Comment As a Page on Facebook Posted: 08 Dec 2020 12:00 AM PST This wikiHow teaches you how to leave a comment on a Facebook Page (for a brand, service, organization, or public figure) as a Page you manage. Commenting on other Pages with your own organization or brand name is a great way to build community and increase your Page's reach. You must be a Page admin, editor, or moderator to comment on as a Page. [Edit]Using a Phone or Tablet - Open Facebook on your Android, iPhone, or iPad. If you're already signed in, you will see your personal news feed.
- Go to the Page on which you want to comment. To search for a Page by name, tap the magnifying glass icon at the top of Facebook, type the name, and then tap it in the search results.
- Scroll to the post you want to comment on. You'll see your own personal profile photo at the bottom-right corner.
- Tap your profile photo. This displays a list of all other Pages you can comment as.
- Select the Page you want to comment as. This changes your profile icon below the post to the one connected to your Page.
- Tap below the post. This opens the typing area.
- Type your comment and tap the Send icon. The Send icon is the blue paper airplane on the right side of the typing area. This shares your comment on the post and makes it appear as though it comes from your Page.[1]
[Edit]Using a Computer - Go to https://www.facebook.com in a web browser. If you're already signed in, you'll see your personal news feed. If you're not signed in yet, go ahead and do that now.
- Navigate to the Page on which you want to comment. To search for a Page, click the Search bar at the top-left corner, type the Page name, and then click it in the search results.
- Scroll to the post on which you want to comment. You'll want to make sure you can see the "Write a comment" field beneath the post.
- Click your profile image below the post. It's in a tiny circle at the bottom-right corner of the post. A list of all Pages you administer, edit, or moderate will appear.
- Click the Page you want to comment as. This switches the previous profile image that appeared below the post to that of your Page.
- Type your comment and press or . When your comment is published, it will appear as though it was posted by your Page and not your personal account.
- It's not possible to comment as your Page on a personal Facebook user's post—only on posts from other Pages.
- Another thing you can do with your Page to expand your reach is to join Facebook Groups as your Page. To do this, select + Join Group on the group's main page, select the option to join as your Page, and then tap Join Group.[2]
[Edit]References [Edit]Quick Summary |
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