| How to Get Rid of Silverfish Posted: 27 May 2020 05:00 PM PDT Silverfish are fairly harmless, but these grayish-blue, serpentine creatures aren't pleasant to have around the house. They feed on books, dead skin cells, and other starchy materials and thrive in dark, wet spaces. Once you've determined you have an infestation, you can get rid of silverfish by trapping them, repelling them, killing them with insecticides, or making your home less hospitable. There are plenty of options to try, so be aware that you may have to experiment and implement several techniques to completely fix your silverfish problem. [Edit]Household Solutions If you're dealing with a silverfish infestation, you may be able to handle it without calling the exterminators, using products found around your house: [Edit]Trapping Silverfish - Figure out where they're lurking. Since silverfish are nocturnal, you may not see them during the day. Rather, you'll probably become aware of their presence because of what they leave behind. Look for damp, dark areas with small spots of excrement that look like black pepper. Small holes and yellowish stains on clothing, wallpaper, cereal boxes, and other cardboard or fabric materials also indicate they're nearby. Finally, silverfish shed their skin, so you can look around for tiny skin casts in your bathroom, basement and other areas where you suspect they live.[1]
- Set out homemade glass silverfish traps. Take a quart-sized mason jar or another glass container. Wrap the outside of the container with a piece of masking tape. Place a piece of bread at the bottom of the glass. Set the glass in an area where you suspect silverfish reside. Make sure to wrap tape all the way to the top. The silverfish will climb into the glass to eat the bread, but they'll be unable to get back out, since the glass is too slippery.[2]
- Use the traps at night, when silverfish come out to feed.
- Try newspaper traps. Roll up a newspaper, band the ends with elastic, and moisten it. Set it out where you often see silverfish leavings before you go to bed. In the morning, silverfish will have eaten their way into the newspaper, since you've provided them with both food and a cozy environment.[3] Throw the newspapers away (without unrolling them) or burn them. Repeat every night until you don't see any more signs of silverfish.[1]
- Make as many traps as necessary to trap the silverfish in your home. Depending on the severity of your infestation, you may need to set them out several nights in a row.
- Use store-bought traps. If you don't want silverfish touching your glassware, you can buy traps designed to catch them from a hardware store. Any type of sticky traps will work. Buy some "roach motels" or smaller traps you can set around to catch the silverfish. You can bait them with small pieces of bread or another starch.
[Edit]Using Repellents and Insecticides - Sprinkle diatomaceous earth in cabinets and other dark areas. This powdery substance is actually food-grade, and it's used to kill anything that crawls. It's made out of ground-up fossilized material, and the sharp edges of each individual grain puncture insects' exoskeletons and cause them to die without causing any harm to humans or pets.
- Sprinkle the substance in your cabinets, along baseboards, and anywhere else you'd like before you go to bed. In the morning, vacuum up the powder (and along with it, the silverfish).
- Wear a mask when you're sprinkling the powder, since it can irritate your lungs.
- Try boric acid. This is another natural substance that kills both silverfish and their eggs. Sprinkle it along baseboards, under the bathtub, and in other areas where you see silverfish signs. Be careful not to inhale boric acid when you apply it, since it's toxic to the lungs. Avoid using it where your household pets might get into it, too.
- Buy a chemical spray containing liquid pyrethrin.[4] This chemical kills silverfish when you spray it along baseboards and into cracks, as well as other places where silverfish lurk. Do not apply this in your kitchen cabinets or near food sources, and don't apply it where children and pets hang out, since it's toxic.
- Sprinkle cedar shavings where they live. Silverfish are repelled by the smell of cedar, so you can keep them away by sprinkling it around areas where they live.[5] Since cedar shavings can make a bit of a mess, use them in outdoor areas, basements, and other places where you don't mind having wood shavings lying around. Vacuum them up and replace them every week or so.
- Use spice sachets in your kitchen cabinets. Silverfish don't like the smell of spices, so making up little sachets of cloves, cinnamon, and other strong-smelling spices and placing them in your kitchen cabinets is a great, safe way to keep them away from your food.[6]
- Use a citrus or lavender spray. Both of these scents are also effective in repelling silverfish, and they're completely nontoxic to humans, of course.[7] Get some lemon or lavender essential oil from a health food store. Dilute with water and shake the solution up in a spray bottle and spray liberally in all areas where you don't want silverfish. These sprays are great for closets, drawers, and other bedroom areas.
[Edit]Preventing Silverfish from Returning - Dehumidify your home. Since silverfish love damp places, reducing the humidity in your home is a sure way to keep them out.[8] Buy a dehumidifier and try to reduce the humidity in your home. If you don't want to use a dehumidifier, run the air conditioner or at least keep the fans on.
- Caulk all cracks and crevices where they could lay eggs. If your house is full of dark, damp cracks and crevices, filling these is a good way to keep silverfish out. Buy some caulk and apply it along baseboards, inside cracks, and in holes in your wall or floor. This is particularly important to do in your kitchen, bathroom and basement.
- Remove food sources from your house. Keeping your floor clear of silverfish food may help keep their population down. Don't leave a pile of books on the floor, and clean up your dirty laundry before it sits there too long. In addition to these primary food sources, consider the following sources that may be a factor:
- Cardboard boxes. Store your boxes on shelves instead of the floor, where they're more likely to get damp.
- Food containers. Keep your food in sealed plastic containers instead of boxes.
- Wallpaper. If you've got old wallpaper, consider replacing it with paint or new wallpaper.
- Old clothing. If you store your out-of-season clothing in your basement or a dark closet, consider placing it in plastic bags to keep the silverfish out.
- Vacuum your house often. Vacuuming helps to keep their food sources down and sucks eggs out of the carpet and baseboards. Vacuum at least once a week. When necessary, you can dry out your carpets by sprinkling them with baking soda, leaving it for a few hours, then vacuuming it up. This dries out the eggs so you can suck them up.
- Keep your plumbing in good order so as not to create a damp environment.
- Silverfish like places where they can live in safety. This means that they will hide in places that are damp, messy, have several good hiding places, and have a lot of paper. Keeping your house tidy will leave them vulnerable to the vacuum. Move your things around often, as this will disturb them frequently.
- Leave a lot of open space. Silverfish might try to come out and run to eat something. You can try leaving bait such as a nice tasty book on the floor. Kill any that emerge in your presence.
- Check your basement and attic first. Paper-backed or cellulose insulation in these areas is a great source of food for silverfish.
[Edit]Warnings - Be careful using chemicals; some may harm your family and pets if they ingest or inhale them. Be sure to check safety precautions and warnings labels before using and follow the directions for use.
[Edit]References [Edit]Quick Summary |
| How to Make Origami Paper Claws Posted: 27 May 2020 09:00 AM PDT Origami claws can really spice up your ghoulish costume or spoke your friends. If your Halloween costume needs some claws, you can just fashion your own claws for each finger. They are sharp and pointy, so don't get too carried away, they're just for show! Become an absolute expert. Take our wikiHow Origami Bootcamp!
[Edit]Forming Claws from Standard Paper - Place the paper on a flat surface. Position the paper vertically (portrait). You can use any type of paper you have lying around the house. If you want sturdier claws, then use thicker paper.
- Fold the top right corner over and down. Align the fold to the paper's bottom. The left side of the sheet now has a point.
- Fold the point to the opposite corner. It should look like a rectangle that is missing a corner.
- Fold the diagonal edge at the top part down. Align the top edge to the diagonal edge. This should now be in the shape of a square. Position the paper with the right angle of the triangle pointing up, or away from you.
- Create a triangle. Fold the square along the diagonal line. This should create a triangle.
- Fold the paper in half. Imagine a vertical line dividing the triangle in half, from the point to the base, right down the middle. You're creating a right triangle.
- You may want to draw this line in pencil the first couple of times. Use a T-square to make sure the line down the middle is at a right angle to the base of the triangle.
- This fold is to form a crease that will be important for the following fold.
- Fold the left side into the crease. Unfold the recently formed right triangle and fold the two edged side directly to the half-way line of the triangle. The fold's outer edge should be going straight down, perpendicular to the bottom and even extending below the bottom of your triangle.
- Repeat the previous fold two more times. Fold the same side over itself again. You should be able to see the claw coming into form.
- Be careful to line each fold with your imaginary pencil line.
- Make sure you keep each fold very tight and at the same angle. If the folds start to slant upwards, instead of staying aligned, the claw won't be as sturdy.
- Tuck the bottom flap into the end. You may need to open the hole for the flap up with your finger. Hold it so the opening is visible and easy to insert one flap.
- Open the smaller triangle in the middle of the folds. Simply stick your finger into the smaller triangle to open it up. This will look like a knuckle for the claw.
- It may be a tight fit at first.
- The tighter the fit the more likely the claw will stay on your finger.
[Edit]Using Origami Paper - Buy or construct origami paper. To make origami paper, orient a standard sized paper (8.5x11) longways and fold a corner farthest to the opposite edge. Then cut off the excess part of the paper that wasn't covered by this fold. This will create a square.
- Sturdier paper will increase the the durability.
- Fold the paper in half. Imagine a line running from the top-left corner going to the bottom-right corner. Fold along this line to create a right triangle.[1]
- Fold the paper on the diagonal axis. You are turning your right triangle into an isosceles triangle. Make sure the crease is strong.
- Fold the paper on a diagonal axis, again. The line that you are folding now will start from one corner, and will end in the middle of the other two corners. Continue to ensure that your creases are strong.
- Make a vertical valley fold.[2] Position the claw in front of you so the pointiest "nail" faces left. Imagine a line descending straight from the top tip to the bottom. Fold the smaller corner towards the "nail." Then unfold this fold.
- Tuck the right tip into the pocket.[3] By making the vertical valley fold, you've allowed a pocket to be formed. This is where your finger will go.
[Edit]Using an Alternative Technique - Place the paper on a flat surface. Position the paper horizontally. You can use any type of paper you have lying around the house. If you want sturdier claws, then use thicker paper.
- Fold the top left corner over and down. Align the fold to the paper's bottom. The left side of the sheet now has a point.
- Fold the two corners on the right side. Only fold these corners to the line of the previous fold. This will create two smaller triangles.[4]
- Fold the left point over. Imagine this right triangle without the other two triangles. Just fold the right tip to the opposite tip of the right triangle.
- Use the excess strip. Fold the excess strip with the two smaller triangles up onto the other triangle. This will form a triangle with this recent fold on top of it.
- Fold the paper in half. Imagine a vertical line dividing the triangle in half, from the point to the base, right down the middle. You're creating a right triangle.
- This fold is to form a crease that will be important for the following fold.
- Fold the left side into the crease. Unfold the recently formed right triangle and fold the two folded edges directly to the half-way line of the triangle. The fold's outer edge should be going straight down, perpendicular to the bottom and even extending below the bottom of your triangle.
- Repeat the previous fold two more times. Fold the same side over itself again. You should be able to see the claw coming into form.
- Tuck the bottom flap into the end. You may need to open the hole for the flap up with your finger. Hold it so the opening is visible and easy to insert one flap.
- Open the smaller triangle in the middle of the folds. Simply stick your finger into the smaller triangle to open it up. This will look like a knuckle for the claw.
- Buy some black gloves in a thrift store, or look for old ones around the house, and cut off the ends from the fingers. Put your claws on over the gloves for an even better look.
- Practice on thin, cheap paper before using any expensive materials.
- Some people might have fingers that are too large or small. You can always use bigger or smaller paper, just make sure it has the same proportions.
- If you want the claws to match your costume you could do a design on them.
- You can change the color by using black paper or even painting. Construction paper is heavier and harder to work with but makes more durable claws and is available in a variety of colors.
- Make your folds as exact as possible. Consider using a paper folder or a ruler. Sharp, exact folds are the key to success in almost any origami projects.
- This is hard. Your claws will get better and better the more you make them.
- Younger children may need help doing this.
[Edit]Things You'll Need - An 8 1/2 x 11 sheet of paper, standard letter size in the United States
- A hard surface to fold on
- Paper folder or ruler (optional)
- T-square (optional)
- Origami paper (optional)
[Edit]Related wikiHows [Edit]References [Edit]Quick Summary |
| How to Preserve Driftwood Posted: 27 May 2020 01:00 AM PDT There's something so elegant and beautiful about driftwood. It spends days, months, or even years just floating around in the water before washing up on the shore with this beautiful texture and grain. It's no wonder that natural driftwood is such a popular choice for sculpting, woodworking, and painting. You can even use a raw piece of driftwood as an accent piece on the wall or as a unique centerpiece. Preserving driftwood isn't particularly difficult, but it does take some time and patience. You can either clean and bleach it to preserve it in its natural state, or go the extra step to seal it in oil, resin, or varnish to preserve it in a protective coating. [Edit]Cleaning and Prepping the Wood - Remove any weakened branches or cracked pieces if you want to clean it up. How you prep your driftwood for preservation depends on what you're using the driftwood for. If you want to clean the driftwood up, remove any weakened pieces of the driftwood. Either put on gloves and remove the pieces by hand, or use a chisel or scraping tool to break off the sections you want to remove.[1]
- You may want to do this if you're preserving a single piece of natural driftwood or don't want any weak chunks of wood snapping off when you're sculpting it.
- Sand the wood if you want to smooth your piece out. To smooth the wood out, grab a sheet of 180- to 300-grit sandpaper. Put on a set of thick work gloves. You can sand the surface of the wood by hand, or use an orbital sander to remove the exterior layer of wood. This will give your driftwood a smooth, soft texture.[2]
- The amount of pressure you use when sanding is totally up to you. The harder you press the sandpaper into the wood, the smoother the finish will be. Some people prefer the look of rougher driftwood, though.
- Don't forget the other side of the wood. If you're sanding one side of the wood, you should sand the other side as well to make it consistent.
- Knock the dirt, sawdust, and residue off with a brush and air compressor. Take your driftwood outside and grab a stiff-bristled brush. Scrub the wood with the dry brush to knock off any dust, dirt, or weak layers of wood. Use an air compressor to blow the wood dust and debris off. The more dirt, sand, and debris you can knock off, the more effective the bleaching process will be.[3]
- You can use some canned air instead of the compressor if you don't have one.
- Make sure that you scrub and blow air on the opposite side of the wood, too!
[Edit]Bleaching and Drying the Wood - Place the driftwood in a plastic bin big enough to submerge it. Get a plastic trash can or storage bin that is big enough to hold your chunk of driftwood. You're going to fill this bin with water and bleach, so make sure that you have at least of space at the top. Gently set the driftwood in the bottom.[4]
- Do this outside if possible. The bleach fumes can be obnoxious and you'll soak your wood for a few hours. If it may rain, wait for a clear, sunny day to do this.
- Submerge the driftwood in a solution of bleach and water. If you want to dye the driftwood white, fill your bin with a solution of 9-parts water and 1-part bleach.[5] If you want to preserve the original color and grain, use of bleach for every of water instead. Fill the bin with enough of your bleach solution to completely submerge the driftwood.[6]
- Wash your hands thoroughly with soap and water if you get any bleach on your skin.
- Place a heavy tile or brick on top of the driftwood if it floats. Driftwood tends to be buoyant and it may float to the surface of the bin if you don't have a particularly heavy piece of wood. If this happens, place a ceramic tile, brick, or some other heavy object on top of the driftwood. The entire piece of wood must be submerged for this process to work.[7]
- Let the driftwood soak for at least 6 hours to kill the bugs and bacteria. Let the bin sit out in the open air for at least 6 hours. This should be more than enough time to remove the bacteria and pests living in the wood. However, if you want to dye the wood white, leave wood in the bleach and water for as long as it takes to change color. If you have to let it soak for more a day, change the bleach and water solution out after 24 hours.[8]
- The longer you leave the wood, you whiter it will turn. You'll get diminishing returns after 3-4 days, though.
- The younger the wood is, the longer it takes to change color. You may need to keep the wood submerged for 2-3 days to dye it white.
- Let the driftwood air dry for 24 hours before rinsing them off. Put on a pair of nitrile gloves and carefully lift the wood out of the solution. If it's a bigger piece, pour the water and bleach out into a dirt patch or large sink to retrieve the wood. Pull the wood out and let it sit on the driveway, sidewalk, or some other solid surface. Let it rest in the sun for at least 24 hours before rinsing the wood thoroughly with a hose.[9]
- This will give the bleach time to dissipate into the wood, which will preserve it for longer.
- When rinsing the wood, you can use cold or warm water. Either way, be sure to really soak the wood. It's key to washing off any bleach residue that sticks to the external surface, which you don't want.
- Dry the driftwood for 15-30 days in the sun to fully let it cure. After you're finished rinsing the wood, let it sit out in the sun for at least 15 days. This will give the moisture trapped inside of the wood time to completely dissipate. On days when it may rain or snow, take your wood inside and let it dry in the garage, basement, or the corner of some unused room.[10]
- You can stop here if you'd like. Driftwood that has been cleaned and bleached should hold up just fine for years before it starts to flake or fall apart.
[Edit]Sealing Your Driftwood - Finish your wood after you've done any optional woodworking or painting. If you're using your driftwood for an art project or sculpture, go ahead and do your work now. Sealing the wood in an epoxy resin will preserve anything underneath it, so you need to complete that fun woodworking or art project before first before doing this.[11]
- You don't need to do anything to the wood if you don't want to. Many people enjoy using raw pieces of driftwood as a centerpiece on a table or as an accent piece on a bare wall.
- Put on some nitrile gloves to protect your hands. Regardless of the finish that you choose, it's best to keep your hands clean while you work. This is particularly important if you're using an epoxy resin to finish the driftwood, since it's usually spread out by hand.[12]
- These finishes aren't toxic, but you can put a dust mask on if you tend to be bothered by the smell of chemicals.
- Use a 2-part epoxy resin if you want a thicker, stronger finish. Mix the 2 epoxies together in a plastic bowl or cup. Tilt your bowl or cup over any end of the driftwood to pour out a thin bead of the epoxy. Move the bowl or cup toward the other end of the wood to spread a thick bead over the surface. Either spread the epoxy out by hand or use a brush to move it over the wood until you've applied a thin layer of resin.[13]
- Let the resin dry for at least 72 hours to fully cure to the wood.
- The thicker the epoxy layer is, the more plastic and reflective your wood will look. Some people really like this look, while others prefer to keep the wood looking as natural as possible.
- The driftwood should last for decades. Epoxy resin is actually what builders use to repair antique wood in historic homes, so there's plenty of evidence that your wood will hold up just fine over time.[14]
- Opt for a wood varnish or stain to change the color of the wood. Any varnish or stain that you can use on other types of wood can be applied to driftwood. Varnish tends to leave a slicker finish behind while stains will actively change the color of the wood. Get a varnish or stain and follow the manufacturer's instructions to apply it to your wood. Typically, this is done by applying 2-3 layers of the liquid with a paint brush.[15]
- Wait 48 hours for the wood to completely dry after applying a varnish or stain.
- Driftwood is extremely porous—even more so than other varieties of wood. It may take multiple layers of a thinner varnish or stain to actually see the layer on the surface of the wood.
- Using a varnish or stain will protect the driftwood from surface scratches and minor wear and tear.
- Choose a furniture oil or liquid wood wax to preserve the natural appearance. Furniture oil will leave a thinner texture on the wood, while wood wax will build up on the surface and harden. Use either of these options to maintain the natural grain and color of the wood. Follow the manufacturer's instructions on the label to apply a wax or oil. Typically, you use a brush to apply thin layers and build them up on the surface as needed.[16]
- Wait 48-72 hours after applying a furniture or wax to give the wood time to dry.
[Edit]Warnings - Bleach is a skin irritant. Wash your skin thoroughly with soap and water if it gets on your skin. Keep your eyes away from the bleach when you're pouring or mixing it, since it can impair your vision or cause blindness.[17]
[Edit]Things You'll Need [Edit]Cleaning and Prepping the Wood - Brush
- Compressed air
- Gloves
- Chisel (optional)
- Sandpaper (optional)
- Orbital sander (optional)
[Edit]Bleaching and Drying the Wood - Water
- Plastic bin
- Bleach
- Nitrile gloves
[Edit]Sealing Your Driftwood - Plastic sheet or trash bag
- Nitrile gloves
- Brush
- Wood finish
- Water
[Edit]References |
No comments:
Post a Comment