| How to Do the Surya Namaskar Posted: 26 Jan 2020 04:00 PM PST The Surya Namaskar (sun salutation) is a series of 12 yoga poses meant to give praise to the sun. Traditionally, you do these poses in the morning to greet the rising sun and celebrate the start of a new day. After you move through the poses, go back through the same poses in the opposite direction until you return to your beginning pose. The Surya Namaskar A is just one of many variants on this sequence. [Edit]Opening the Surya Namaskar - Start with the mountain pose. This pose is also known as the Tadasana Namaskar. Stand up straight and tall with your feet planted firmly on the floor, hip-distance apart. Balance your weight evenly on both feet. Let your hands hang at your sides with the palms facing forward and the fingers open, in a receiving position.[1]
- Alternatively, you can bring your hands together in front of your chest in a prayer position. Press the tips of your thumbs against your sternum, over your heart chakra.[2]
- Once you are in the mountain pose, breathe slowly and steadily, and focus on finding your center.[3]
- Raise your arms in an upward salute (Urdhva Hastasana). Inhale deeply and look upward. Slowly raise your arms above your head with the palms together and your fingers pointing straight upward. Push your hips forward a little so that you enter a slight backbend.[4]
- Keep your shoulders back and down while you are in this pose.
- Move into a standing forward bend (Uttanasana). Exhale and bend forward at the hips, keeping your back and legs straight. If you can, bring your chest against your thighs and aim the crown of your head at the floor. Place your hands flat on the floor, or rest them on a block if you cannot reach the floor.[5]
- Try to line your fingertips up with your toes, with your hands positioned on the outsides of your feet.
- Keep your back as straight as possible while you are in this pose. Your back should not be rounded.
- Enter a half-standing forward bend (Ardha Uttanasana). Inhale and slowly slide your hands up along your shins. Raise your head so that you are looking slightly forward and unbend slightly at the hips so that your chest is no longer resting against your thighs. Keep your back flat and straight. Create a triangle between your feet, head, and hips.[6]
- Alternatively, you can keep your fingertips resting on the floor for this pose.[7]
[Edit]Moving through the Middle of the Routine - Exhale and return to the forward fold. From the half-standing forward bend, slowly return to your previous position. Slide your hands back down your shins so that you are grasping your ankles. Make sure to keep your back straight as you bend forward and rest your chest against your thighs.[8]
- Get into a plank pose. Inhale and place your hands flat on the floor. Carefully step back with both feet, one foot at a time, extending your legs straight out behind you with your toes curled under you. Keep your arms straight and your shoulders directly above your wrists, and keep your back straight and flat.[9]
- Your hands should be shoulder-width apart, and your feet should be hip-distance apart.
- Lower yourself into a low pushup. This is also known as the 4-limbed staff pose or Chaturanga Dandasana. Exhale and bend your arms at the elbows so that your torso is parallel to the floor. Push back through your legs into your heels, keeping your legs straight out behind you.[10]
- If you're not strong enough to do a low pushup, lower yourself down so that your knees, chin, and chest are on the floor.
- Inhale and enter an upward dog pose (Urdhva Mukha Svanasana). Push your toes out behind you so that the tops of your feet are resting flat on the floor. Keeping your arms straight and your hands resting flat on the floor, raise your head and push your chest forward and your shoulders back so that you enter a backbend.[11]
- Allow your shins to rest on the floor, but try to keep your thighs and hips slightly elevated.
[Edit]Returning to the Opening Pose - Get into a downward dog pose (Adho Mukha Svanasana). Exhale and roll your feet back onto your toes, keeping your legs straight out behind you. Let your head hang down and move your hips up and back, pushing through your shoulder blades. Keep your hands flat on the floor and your arms straight.[12]
- Keep your back and legs straight and aim your hips directly at the ceiling.
- Move back into the standing forward bend. From the downward dog position, inhale and step forward with one foot, then the other. Move your feet so that they are in line with your hands and closer to the front of the mat. Keep your legs and back straight, and bend at the hips.[13]
- Inhale and move back into the upward salute. Slowly straighten up until you are standing upright, then raise your arms above your head, turning your gaze upward. Keep your hands facing each other or touching, palm to palm. Push your hips forward and your shoulders back so that you enter a slight backbend.[14]
- Keep your knees very slightly bent during this pose.
- Exhale and return to the mountain pose. Slowly lower your arms and straighten your back. Let your hands hang at your sides in the forward-facing receptive position, or hold them in front of your chest in the prayer position. Make sure your weight is evenly distributed between both your feet.[15]
- This will return you to the original pose and bring the Surya Namaskar sequence full circle.
- Use fluid, connected movements to move between positions.
[Edit]References [Edit]Quick Summary |
| How to Spiral Tie Dye Posted: 26 Jan 2020 08:00 AM PST Tie dyeing is a great way to make a plain, white garment look more interesting and colorful. The most popular design is the spiral. The trick to getting the design is to twist the shirt into a disk, then wrap rubber bands around it. T-shirts are the most popular item to tie dye, but you may be able to use other items too, such as sarongs. [Edit]Tying and Soaking the Fabric - Get a white, 100% cotton T-shirt that you want to tie dye. It can be brand-new or an older shirt. If the shirt is brand-new, wash it first to remove any coatings that might prevent the dye from adhering. If it's an older shirt, make sure that it's clean. You can also use other items, such as sarongs and pillowcases as long as they're white and 100% cotton.[1]
- Don't use colored items, or the dye won't show up. The fabric must also be 100% cotton in order for the dye to adhere.
- Items with large surface areas will work the best. Something like a pair of shorts or socks will be difficult to twist into a spiral.
- Spread the shirt out on a smooth, flat surface. You won't be dyeing on this surface, so it can be anything, as long as it's flat and rigid. A table or a hardwood floor would work the best. Don't work on carpet, grass, or concrete; the texture will create too much friction for the twisting part.
- if you're tie dyeing something else, then make sure that you spread it out flat as well.
- Place a fork in the center of the shirt with the prongs pointing down. The fork should be perpendicular to the shirt and the surface that you're working on.[2] Alternatively, pinch the center of the shirt between your thumb and index finger. This will form the center of your spiral.
- For a more unique design, pinch elsewhere on the shirt. For example, you could pinch the top-right corner or the bottom-left corner.
- Use the fork to twist the shirt into a disk. Twirl the fork between your fingers until the shirt starts to gather into a spiral. Once you've twisted the shirt as much as you can, use your hands to finish tucking any loose bits of fabric against the bundle.[3]
- This is a little like winding spaghetti around the prongs of a fork.
- You can twist the shirt clockwise or counterclockwise.
- If you pinched the fabric with your fingers, simply twist your hand like turning a key. You'll have to re-pinch and adjust your hand after each twist.
- Wrap 3 to 4 rubber bands around the disk. Wrap the first 2 rubber bands around the spiraled disk to make a cross shape. Add 1 or 2 more rubber bands to make the bundle more secure. Make sure that all of the rubber bands meet in the middle.[4]
- Space the rubber bands evenly, like the numbers on a clock, or just wrap them around the bundle randomly.
- If the bundle feels loose, add a few more rubber bands.
[Edit]Preparing the Soda Ash and Dye - Put on a pair of plastic gloves and a dust mask. Soda ash and dye can irritate skin and cause allergic reactions, so put those gloves on. The fine particles in soda ash and powdered dyes can also irritate your lungs, so a dust mask would also be a good idea.[5]
- Not all fabric dyes require soda ash. Double-check the instructions on the dye package.
- It would be a good idea to put on an old set of clothes or an apron. This way, you won't risk accidentally staining your clothes.
- Work outside, if possible. If you can't, cover your work surface with a plastic tablecloth or several layers of newspaper.
- Mix 1 cup (598 g) of soda ash with of warm water. Pour of warm water into a large bucket, then stir in 1 cup (598 g) of soda ash. The soda ash is the magic ingredient that will set the dye into the fabric without the use of heat or constant soaking.[6]
- Once you add the T-shirt, the water level will rise, so make sure that the bucket is big enough. Something that can hold would work.
- Choose your desired colors of fiber reactive dyes. These dyes are wonderful for tie dyeing because you don't need heat to activate them. You also don't need to leave the fabric in the dye for long periods of time. This makes it easy to apply multiple colors at once.[7]
- You can get fiber reactive dyes online. Fabric stores and craft stores also sell them, but typically in kits.
- Fiber reactive dyes come in powdered form, but not all powdered dyes are fiber reactive. Read the label!
- How many colors you choose is up to you. Most people stick with 2 colors, but you can use anywhere between 1 and 4 colors.
- Mix the dye with the amount of water recommended on the package. Each brand of dye will require a different amount of water. If your fiber reactive dye came in a plastic squeeze bottle, you'll most likely have to fill the bottle to the fill line with water. Again, read the instructions.[8]
- If your dye came in a packet, mix the dye in a jar first, then transfer it into a plastic squeeze bottle.
- Some dyes can be mixed ahead of time and stored indefinitely while others need to be used immediately. Read the instructions on your package of dye.
[Edit]Soaking and Dyeing the Fabric - Soak the shirt in the soda ash solution for 10 to 20 minutes. Dunk the shirt into the soda ash solution, then squeeze it to ensure that it's thoroughly soaked. Leave it in the bucket for 10 to 20 minutes.[9]
- If the shirt floats in the water, it's not soaked through. Squeeze it some more, or allow it to soak longer.
- You can remove the dust mask at this point since the soda ash and dye powders are dissolved. You should keep the gloves and old clothes/apron on, however.
- Take the shirt out and squeeze out the excess soda ash solution. After this, you won't need the soda ash solution again, so dump it out. If you're dyeing more shirts, however, leave it in the bucket and soak the rest of your desired items.[10]
- You can pour the soda ash solution down the drain. It won't harm the pipes. In fact, it may even clear out any clogs!
- Use the squeeze bottles to apply the dye to the front of the disk. Use whatever pattern you like. Most people prefer to use 1 color per section. Some people like to apply the colors randomly with multiple colors per section. Make sure that you stick the nozzle into the creases and folds, however; otherwise, the dye won't penetrate.[11]
- Each space between 2 rubber bands counts as 1 section.
- Work on top of a surface that can get dirty or stained. An old baking sheet covered with plastic wrap would work great.
- Flip the disk over and apply the dye to the other side. Use the same colors and patterns as you did for the front, or change them up for a more unique design. Once you are done, pour the rest of the dye down the drain.[12]
- You may be able to save the dye for later. Each brand is different, however, so read the label to find out whether or not you can store it for later use.
[Edit]Setting and Rinsing the Dye - Place the shirt into a plastic bag for 24 hours. Use a resealable bag, such as a Ziploc bag. If you can only get a plain plastic bag, tie it shut instead. Leave the shirt in the bag for 24 hours so that the dye can set.[13]
- Don't untie the shirt before you put it into the bag.
- Place the bag on top of a tray or a larger plastic bag in case the dye leaks. This will protect your work surface against stains.
- Remove the shirt from the bag with gloved hands. Put the plastic gloves back on your hands, then take the shirt out of the bag. Do not take the rubber bands off; leave them on.[14]
- If you take the rubber bands off now, you risk getting dye onto the white areas of the shirt and ruining the tie dye effect.
- Rinse the shirt with cool water until the water runs clear. How long you rinse the shirt for depends on the brand and colors of dye that you used. Some will take a lot longer to rinse than others. Keep your gloves on for this step as the dye may still stain your hands.[15]
- Remove the rubber bands, then rinse the shirt again. If you can't pull the rubber bands, cut them off instead. Shake the shirt out so that it's smooth, then rinse it again to get the rest of the dye out. Be sure to use cool water, not warm.[16]
- Remember to wear your plastic gloves so that you don't get dye on your hands!
- You need to rinse the shirt twice because some of the dye was trapped inside the spiral.
- Wash the shirt in the washing machine. There will still be some dye left in the shirt, so it would be best to wash it separate from the rest of your laundry. If that's not possible, add a dye-setting solution (e.g.: Synthrapol) into your laundry. This will prevent the dye from staining the rest of your laundry.[17]
- Alternatively, wash the shirt with similar colors. You can also wash it with black clothing; the dye won't show up on that.
- Stick with a "cool" or "cold" water setting. It is safe for all fabrics and won't fade the dye.
- Allow the shirt to dry. Hang the shirt up in the sun or use a clothes dryer. The heat from the dryer would actually help set the dye into the fabric better, but be aware that it may also cause the shirt to shrink a little!
- Once the shirt is dry, it's ready to wear!
- If you are using a clothes dryer, you can dry the shirt with other items. The color should not transfer to other garments.
- Wash the shirt separately from the rest of your laundry for the first 3 or 4 washes to minimize bleeding. Alternatively, wash it with like or black colors.
- If you can't get a white shirt, consider using the reverse tie dye technique with bleach and a colored shirt.
[Edit]Warnings - Don't reuse measuring cups and stirring utensils for food or cooking. Washing alone won't remove the contaminants from the dye and soda ash.
[Edit]Things You'll Need - 100% cotton white T-shirt
- Rubber bands
- Bucket
- Soda ash
- Fiber reactive dyes
- Plastic squeeze bottles
- Water
- Fork
- Plastic gloves
- Dust mask
- Old clothes or apron
- Plastic resealable bags
- Plastic tablecloth or newspaper
[Edit]References |
| How to Cut a Persimmon Posted: 26 Jan 2020 12:00 AM PST Persimmons are sweet and unique fruits that are rich in Vitamin A, Vitamin C, fiber, and potassium.[1] While the acorn-shaped Hachiya persimmon and the tomato-shaped Fuyu persimmon have a similar sweet and honey-like taste, they need to be cut very differently, due to their differing densities, textures, and water contents. The Hachiya persimmon is sliced in half and its inner contents are scooped out and the Fuyu persimmon is sliced in half and wedged. [Edit]Cutting a Hachiya Persimmon - Place the Hachiya persimmon upright on the cutting board. When placing the persimmon, make sure it is centered and stable. You do not want the persimmon slipping off of the cutting board, squirting juice on the counter, or slipping under the knife while you are attempting to cut it.
- Cut the persimmon leaves at their base with a knife. Make sure to use a sharp kitchen knife, as the leaves can be thick and tough.[2] This step makes the removal of the stem and the slicing of the actual fruit easier because there will be less to get in the way of the knife.
- Cut a V-shape around and underneath the stem. Make the cut shallow, so you do not cut out too much of the actual persimmon fruit. The vertical height of this V-cut is recommended to be only slightly longer than the actual stem, which can range from around one to one and a half centimeters. [3]
- You can also pull out the stem with your hands. The stem of the Hachiya persimmon should come out easily if it is fully ripe.[4]However, this method is less exact, has the potential to be messier, and can result in you pulling out too much of the actual fruit along with the stem.
- Slice the persimmon in half. Place the middle of the sharp knife down the center of the persimmon, where the stem used to be. Simultaneously move the knife forward as you push downward. This will slice the persimmon in half.[5]
- Make sure you are watching your hand and knife placement. If you cut yourself, wash it and put antibiotics on it. If it is more serious, seek medical attention.
- Scoop out the inner contents of the fruit. With a spoon, scoop the persimmon meat out of its skin.[6] An easy way to do this is by scooping out the contents from side of the persimmon, where the inner fruit meets the skin, almost like scooping an avocado. If you cannot get all the persimmon out in one scoop that is okay! Keep scooping until you are satisfied.
[Edit]Slicing a Fuyu Persimmon - Peel the Fuyu persimmon skin. Put pressure on the persimmon skin with the peeler as you pull the peeler back toward you. Continue this movement around the fruit until the skin is completely removed. This is optional, as the skin is edible; however, peeling the skin is helpful because it makes the persimmon less likely to slip under a knife while slicing it. [7]
- Position the Fuyu persimmon to stand vertically on the cutting board. When placing the persimmon, make sure it is centered and stable. You do not want the persimmon slipping off of the cutting board or slipping under the knife while you are attempting to cut it.
- Trim the persimmon leaves as much as possible. Make sure to use a sharp kitchen knife, as the leaves can be thick and tough. This step makes the removal of the stem and the cutting easier because there will be less excess in the way of the knife.[8]
- Remove the stem by cutting it out at a forty-five degree V-shape. Make the cut shallow, so you do not cut out too much of the actual persimmon fruit. The vertical height of this V-cut is recommended to be only slightly longer than the actual stem, which can be anywhere from one to one and a half centimeters.[9]
- Cut the persimmon in two. Place the middle of the sharp knife down the center of the persimmon, where the stem used to be. Simultaneously move the knife forward as you push downward. This will slice the persimmon in half.[10]
- Slice the persimmon halves into wedges. Cut the persimmon halves in half again by using the same slicing motion. Continue to cut each half into smaller halves until you are satisfied. Wedges are typically around one to two centimeters, yet can vary depending on personal preference.[11]
- If you are baking with persimmons or placing them on a platter, you may consider cutting the persimmon into incredibly thin wedges. You can slice them as thin as around one fifth of a centimeter.[12]
- Make sure that the persimmon is ripe. This will make cutting it easier.
- If possible, use a chef's knife to cut the persimmon. Because it is large and sharp, slicing is easy.
- To avoid cutting or poking yourself, cut away from your body and keep your grip high up, away from the blade.
[Edit]Warnings - Be careful! Using sharp knives can be dangerous. When you are cutting the persimmon, be attentive. If you cut yourself, wash it and put antibiotics on it. If it is more serious, seek medical attention.
[Edit]References [Edit]Quick Summary |
No comments:
Post a Comment