| How to Protect Your Back While Moving Posted: 11 Sep 2019 05:00 PM PDT Moving into a new home, or helping someone else move, is a common way to strain or injure your back. To minimize your potential for back problems, make sure to lift every item using proper technique—keep the old adage "lift with your legs" in mind! You should also work to get your back and body in shape beforehand, and take care of them during and after moving day. It's also a good idea to use hand trucks and dollies, and to consider hiring pros if needed. [Edit]Lifting with Proper Technique - Plan and check out your route before lifting an item. Never pick up a heavy object without first knowing exactly where you plan to take it and how you'll get it there. Look over the entire route and make sure there are no obstructions along the way.[1]
- For instance, if your kid has already opened a box of their toys and spread them on the floor, it could be very dangerous to carry a heavy box through that area.
- Get close to the object and take a wide stance. Place your feet at just beyond shoulder width and stand as close to the object as you can. If you're picking up a smaller moving box, for instance, stand so that your toes are beyond the front of the box.[2]
- Taking a wider stance gives you a stronger, more stable base for lifting. It also makes it easier to lift with your legs instead of your back.
- Your goal is to reach out as little as possible to grab the item before lifting it.
- Crouch down with your back straight and head forward. Your back should maintain its natural, slight curve. Never arch your back to bend over top of the item. Also, don't look down at the item as you crouch—keep your head level and look straight forward.[3]
- Your feet should be flat on the ground with your weight centered over them.
- Arching your back and neck puts all the weight of the object you're lifting onto the muscles supporting those areas. Instead, you want the more powerful muscles of your legs and core to take on the weight.
- Keep your hands below your shoulders and grip firmly. Slide your fingers under the item, beneath its center of gravity. For a moving box, you may be able to instead grip your hands around the far corners, near the bottom.[4]
- Use your thumbs, fingers, and palms to secure a firm grip. If you can't get a good grip, don't try to lift the item.
- Tilt a lighter item forward to slide your fingers underneath if necessary, but don't risk pinning or crushing your fingers beneath a heavier item. Instead, use a dolly or hand cart to lift and move the item.
- Breathe deeply throughout and exhale as you lift. Don't make the mistake of holding your breath while you lift—this robs you of oxygen. Instead, breathe slowly and deeply throughout, and time a full exhale for the moment when you begin to lift the item.[5]
- Holding your breath naturally tenses your core muscles, which is helpful when lifting. However, you can—and should—engage your core muscles without holding your breath.
- Even a brief shortage of oxygen may reduce your lifting and carrying capabilities. Also, it's possible that you might black out and be injured.
- Push upward with your feet and legs to stand upright. Focus on drawing your power from the ground up. Push off straight up from your feet, then use your leg muscles to propel your body straight up. Use your arms to hold the item steady, and your core muscles to keep your body balanced and stable.[6]
- Your posture should remain in its natural curve throughout the lift. If you're arching your back and then straightening it out while lifting, you're at a much greater risk of injury.
- Keep the item at waist height as you hold it. The bottom of the item should be right about at your hips, with your hands at or just a little above that level—depending on where you're gripping the item. Do not lift the item above shoulder height without assistance.[7]
- Hoisting heavy objects higher than shoulder level is an easy way to injure your back.
- Instead of trying to move a box onto a high shelf to unpack later, for instance, move it to a table and unpack it there.
- Pivot your feet instead of twisting your back to turn. While holding the item, start every turn at your feet and follow with your upper body. Do not twist at the waist and then shuffle your feet to reposition them.[8]
- If you twist your back without moving your feet, you'll put enormous strain on your spine and its supporting muscles. Put your stronger leg muscles in charge of turning instead.
- Put the item down the same way you lifted it. Do the entire process in reverse: square up your body, with your feet a bit beyond shoulder width; use your legs to lower yourself down, keeping your back at its natural slight curve and your head pointed forward; and release your grip once the item is securely in place.[9]
- Make sure to keep breathing while putting the item down as well!
[Edit]Avoiding Lifting Heavy Weights - Pack smaller, lighter boxes as much as possible. For back safety, an average adult should not lift bulky items that weigh more than without assistance. So, instead of packing fewer, bigger boxes full of stuff, fill more, smaller boxes with your moving items.[10]
- When you do need a bigger box, for instance for an awkwardly-shaped item, fill the rest of it with lightweight items or packing material to keep it under .
- Get help lifting bulky items that weigh more than . Depending on your physical condition, you might feel confident lifting a box of books that weighs more than this. However, bulky or awkwardly-shaped items, like furniture or home appliances, should be lifted with helpers to reduce your risk of injury.[11]
- Lift in tandem with your helper or helpers when dealing with the heavy items. Make sure everyone uses proper technique and lifts at the same time—try counting out "1, 2, 3, lift!"
- Don't lift when you can push instead. Rather than carrying a wardrobe from one bedroom to another on the same level, for example, slide it instead. Use proper lifting technique to tip up one side slightly and slide a sheet of cardboard beneath it. Then, do the same with the other side. From there, you should be able to safely push the item across multiple types of flooring.[12]
- Push with your legs, keeping your back at its natural slight curve, your head up, and your arms bent. Don't arch your back when pushing.
- It's easier on your back to push rather than pull.
- You can also buy moving sliders to place under furniture and other heavy items. Look for them at home improvement stores or online.
- Use hand trucks, dollies, carts, and other moving tools. Basically, any time you can use wheels to your advantage, do so. Hand trucks are great for moving boxes and appliances—you just need to slide the platform under the item, secure the item in place with the straps, tilt back the handle to lift the item onto the two wheels, and push or pull the hand truck to your destination.[13]
- Hand trucks are often called dollies, although technically a dolly has a level platform and four wheels (meaning you have to lift the item onto it).
- You can rent hand trucks and other moving tools from home improvement stores and tool rental stores. If you rent a truck from a moving company, you may also be able to get some moving tools to use.
- No matter what moving tools you use, make sure you know how to use them properly, follow all safety recommendations, and don't exceed the maximum safe load. If you're not sure how to use something, ask for a demonstration when you rent it.
- Know your limits and hire movers if needed. Sometimes the wisest way to protect your back while moving is to let someone else do the lifting for you. If you've had a back injury, have recurring back problems, or have any current or ongoing issues with your legs, core, or arms, don't risk serious injury by trying to lift and move heavy items.[14]
[Edit]Caring for Your Back Throughout the Process - Exercise your back and entire body for 6+ weeks beforehand. If you're not already on an exercise program that includes strength training, flexibility, and aerobic elements, aim to start one at least 6 weeks before your moving day. The more in-shape your body is on moving day, the less likely you'll be to injure your back.[15]
- Consult your doctor before starting a new exercise program, especially if you live a sedentary lifestyle or have any existing medical issues.
- You may want to work with a personal trainer who can customize exercises to get you ready for moving day.
- Stretch before, during, and after moving your stuff. Do several back stretches and some general stretching for 5-10 minutes before you start moving items. Then, every hour or so, take a break, drink some water and rest for 5 minutes, and do some stretching for another 3-5 minutes. Finish off your day by doing some light stretches as well.[16]
- Hip twists, shoulder rolls, toe touches, and several common yoga poses are all good back stretches to utilize.
- Drink water during your hourly break, and also several times in between each break. It's important to stay hydrated while working.
- If you need to take more frequent breaks, do so.
- Try a back belt but accept its limitations. Many workers who lift heavy items for a living—like professional movers—use back belts on the job. In theory, they help stabilize your core and back muscles, thereby reducing your risk of injury. While this may be the case, it's also true there is inadequate scientific evidence to confirm this claim.[17]
- So, it's possible that it may not actually help to wear a back belt, but it also likely won't hurt to do so. It may be detrimental, however, if wearing it gives you a false sense of security, leading you to try lifting too much or with poor technique.
- Most back belts are made of sturdy fabric, loop over the shoulders, and are secured at the waist by adjustable hook-and-loop (Velcro) closures.
- See your doctor to deal with lower or upper back pain. No matter how well you prepare and how many precautions you take, your back will almost certainly be sore the day after moving. If you're experiencing outright pain instead of soreness, or if your soreness doesn't subside after 2-3 days, contact your doctor.
- To combat general back soreness, take it easy for a few days, alternately apply ice and heat to the area as needed, and use anti-inflammatory pain relievers if necessary. Ask your doctor for specific advice based on your circumstances.
[Edit]Related wikiHows [Edit]References |
| How to Build a Carpenter Bee Trap Posted: 11 Sep 2019 09:00 AM PDT Carpenter bees are a destructive nuisance that dig nesting holes through fascia boards, decks, and other wood structures. Although they aren't dangerous, they do a lot of damage when they show up in spring. Fortunately, you can build an environmentally-friendly trap even if you don't have a lot of crafting experience. Gather a wooden post along with a few other supplies, then make tunnels for the bees to enter the trap. Install a Mason jar or another transparent object to hold the bees. Then, check back every day as the trap rids your home of the unwanted pests.[1] [Edit]Cutting the Wood - Purchase pressure-treated wood to make the base of the trap. Carpenter bees build their nests in soft pieces of wood, so avoid untreated lumber. Head to a hardware store or repurpose any wood scraps you have laying around. Pine and cedar are a couple of options for an inexpensive but effective trap. For an easy trap that doesn't require a lot of cutting, get:[2]
- A wood post at least in height.
- Pressure-treated wood often has a faint green hue and smells like oil. The wood may also have a stamp like "L P22" on it to indicate that it has been treated.
- You can design your trap differently if you wish to. For instance, if you're good with crafts, try cutting boards and nailing them together to make a square box.
- Put on eye goggles and a dust mask before working on the trap. Whenever you plan on cutting or drilling wood for the trap, cover up to avoid sawdust and wood shards. Keep other people out of the areas while you work. Consider also working outdoors or ventilating your workspace by opening nearby doors and windows.[3]
- Wear a short-sleeved shirt so you don't have to worry about loose fabric getting caught in your tools. Also, don't wear jewelry and tie back your hair if it is long.
- Cut the wood post until it's in length. If you're working with a long post, trim it to size first. Measure up from one end of the post and mark the distance in pencil. Then, use a circular saw or handsaw to cut horizontally across the post. Set aside the part you aren't planning on using for the trap.[4]
- The post doesn't have to be very long in order to direct bees into the trap. In fact, leaving the post relatively small makes the trap easier to handle.
- If you have excess wood to spare, you could make additional traps with the material you cut.
- Measure and mark a diagonal angle at the top of the post. Measure about up along one side of the post. Make another mark about up the opposite side of the post. Use a ruler to draw a diagonal line connecting the points. The line will be at about a 45-degree angle and is used to cut the top part of the trap.[5]
- Making this angle helps later with creating tunnels for the bees to enter. You could also do it without cutting the post at an angle, but it makes the tunnels trickier to line up.
- If you don't wish to do this, you could leave the top alone and instead make a tunnel all the way through the post. Then, cover the top hole with a plank so the bees can't escape that way.
- Use a saw to trim the post along the traced line. Hold the post still again. To make the cutting process easier if you're using a handsaw, pin it to a workbench or sawhorse with a bench clamp. If you're using a circular saw, hold the wood so the saw slices across the line you made. This will leave the post with an angled top you can use to hang the trap later.[6]
- The angled top prevents light from filtering into the trap's tunnels, so the bees won't have as much of an opportunity to escape.
- If you don't plan on cutting the top, try nailing a board to it. The board will cover up any holes as well as give you a place to safely install a hanging mechanism.
[Edit]Creating the Bee Tunnels - Drill through the bottom of the post using a bit. Flip the post over so the flat, bottom edge faces upward. Position the drill bit directly over the center of the post. Carefully drill straight down, creating a hole about deep.[7]
- You can measure your drill bit ahead of time to ensure the hole is the correct length. If the drill bit is too long, mark it with tape so you know when to stop drilling.
- Mark entry holes up the sides of the post. Measure up from the bottom edge of the post on one side. The holes also need to be about from the sides of the post in order to keep your trap sturdy. Mark the spot in pencil, then repeat the process on the other 3 sides.[8]
- Make sure the marks are well-positioned before you start drilling! These will be the entrance points for the bees, so if they aren't in the right spot, they won't connect.
- Position a drill bit diagonally on the mark. Lay the post flat and start with one of the marks you made on the sides of the trap. Point the drill bit up toward the top of the trap at a 45-degree angle. If you angle the drill properly, the new holes will end up connecting to the center tunnel, giving the bees nowhere to go but down.[9]
- The tunnels have to be angled upward in order to prevent light from getting into the trap. It causes the bees to head toward the clear jar placed at the bottom of the trap.
- Drill through the marks you made on the trap's sides. Drill all the way in until you reach the center of the trap. The hole needs to be about deep. You will eventually feel the drill bit reach the initial tunnel you made through the bottom of the post. Drill through the remaining sides make a few entrances for the bees.[10]
- Drill the other marks as well to make multiple ways for the bees to crawl into your trap.
- If you aren't able to connect the tunnels together, don't worry. You could try widening the holes or drilling down through the top of the post to connect them all.
[Edit]Installing the Trap - Twist the lid off of a Mason jar. A half-pint jar has a lid about wide, the perfect size for your trap. Turn the metal ring on top of the jar counterclockwise by hand to free the lid. The lid is the flat piece of metal inside the ring. Pick up the lid and set it aside.[11]
- If you don't want to use a breakable jar, get a few plastic soda bottles instead. Try cutting open one bottle and stapling the bottom half to the trap. Fit a second bottle half over it to hold the bees.
- Use a marker to mark the spots you need to punch through the lid. Use a ruler to measure the lid's diameter. Find where the center is and mark it. Then, calculate the halfway points between the center and the rim of the lid. Mark these spots as well.[12]
- Make sure you measure across the center of the lid. Hold the ruler very still until you're done so the spots are properly aligned.
- The center marking will be an opening for the bees to crawl through. The other spots are there to secure the lid to the trap.
- Use a metal punch to poke holes through the lid. Set the lid on top of a piece of scrap wood. Then, position a metal punch over one of the marks. Hammer the opposite end of the punch until it breaks through the lid. Repeat this with the other marks you made..[13]
- The punch can damage any surface underneath it. Work over something you don't plan on keeping, such as a piece of scrap wood.
- Widen the center hole using a metal drill bit. This time you're going to need to drill through a harder material, so make sure you're using a heavy-duty bit designed to cut through metal. Drill down through the center hole to widen it. Keep widening it until it matches the tunnel hole you made on the bottom of the wood post.[14]
- Be careful not to damage anything underneath the thin lid. Hold it down firmly against a piece of scrap wood that the drill bit can pass through without issue. Throw away the scrap wood when you're done.
- If you use the wrong drill bit, it could burn out your drill as well as ruin the lid, so choose carefully.
- Screw the lid to the underside of the trap. Place the lid back inside the Mason jar's ring. Then, position the ring over the hole on the bottom edge of the wood post. Fit a pair of wood screws into the smaller holes you punched through the lid. Finish securing the lid by using a screwdriver to turn the screws clockwise.[15]
- Screw the holes straight into the wood so they don't end up crossing into the bee tunnel. Then, make sure the lid is securely in place before attempting to position a Mason jar on it.
- Make a pilot hole through the trap's top if you plan on hanging it. You will need a wood drill bit approximately in size. Flip the trap over so the Mason jar side is facedown. Position your drill bit along the center of the trap, then drill down into it. This hole only needs to be short so it doesn't reach the bee tunnels you made earlier.[16]
- The length of the hole depends on the length of the eye screw you plan on using. It needs to be the same length as the screw. Normally, it will be or less.
- If you made your bee trap differently, be careful not to drill all the way through the wood. For instance, if you made a box using flat boards, don't let the drill pierce through the top of the trap.
- Twist an eye screw into the hole to hang the trap. Use a screw the same length as the hole you made. Set the screw end in the hole, then turn it clockwise until it feels tight and sturdy. You can then hang the trap by threading a rope or a hanging hook through the screw's eye. Find space for the trap near your deck or other spots carpenter bees tend to invade.[17]
- Hang the trap near where you notice bees or near spots you think they might visit. With a screw hook, you can hang up a trap just about anywhere.
- If you're not planning on hanging the trap, set it up on a stable surface near where the bees gather. Put it up high, such as on a table or railing.
- Fit the Mason Jar onto the lid to complete the trap. After hanging up the trap, move the Mason jar toward the lid. It should fit into the ring holding the lid in place. Turn the jar counterclockwise until it hangs in place. When the jar fills with bees, you can unscrew it again to clean it out.[18]
- The jar is where the bees go when they want to leave. The light attracts them there. It works the same way whether you use a jar, plastic bottles, or another clear material.
- To identify carpenter bee nests, look for holes and sawdust in wood. Spray a powder insecticide into the holes, then plug them up after the bees are gone.
- Carpenter bees look a lot like harmless honeybees. Tell them apart by looking for the black, shiny abdomen carpenter bees have.
- Add honey or sugar water to the Mason jar for bait. It will make the trap more effective.
- To drown the bees quickly, add a couple of drops of liquid dish soap to water. When you empty the trap, replace the water.
- There are many ways to customize a bee trap, such as by using different material or making it a different shape. You could also make a bigger trap if you need to.
- For a simpler but flimsier trap, try cutting a big soda bottle in half. Push the cap end into the opposite end.
[Edit]Warnings - Power tools and saws are dangerous, so always use common safety practices. That includes wearing eye goggles and a dust mask.
- The trap could possibly catch other types of bees pollinating nearby flowers and plants. To avoid this, set up the trap only near wood with carpenter bee nests.
- Carpenter bees are not aggressive but can sting you if they feel threatened. Be careful when approaching their nests.
[Edit]Things You'll Need - Circular saw or handsaw
- Drill
- wood drill bit
- wood drill bit
- metal drill bit
- Mason jar
- Screwdriver
- metal screws
- wood post
- Ruler
- Pencil
[Edit]Related wikiHows [Edit]References |
| How to Grow Turmeric Posted: 11 Sep 2019 01:00 AM PDT Turmeric is a plant that can be harvested to make turmeric powder—a spice which has a strong, bitter flavor that is reminiscent of ginger. To grow it, you'll need to plant a turmeric rhizome, which is an immature length of turmeric root. Growing turmeric is easy as long as you can consistently monitor and water your rhizome. This shouldn't be too tall of an order since most of the growing process can take place indoors and doesn't require sunlight. To grow turmeric, buy some turmeric rhizomes, plant them in smaller pots or planters, and then transfer them outside after 6-10 months before harvesting them. [Edit]Preparing Rhizomes for Planting - Plant your turmeric indoors in the late winter. Turmeric takes a long time to sprout, but luckily, it can be done indoors during the winter. It also won't require light until it begins to sprout, so you don't need to worry about taking up a big space near a window for the 5-6 months required to sprout the stalks.[1]
- If you live in a warmer climate and want to plant your turmeric outside, you can plant the rhizomes in your garden. Do it in the winter after the last frost passes so that they sprout in the summer months. You can't do this if it gets colder than outside in winter though.
- If you're planting turmeric outside, do it in a greenhouse with a planter's box if you can. Turmeric requires a lot of space for the roots and needs a lot of humidity to grow early on.
- Purchase some turmeric rhizomes from a market or health food store. To grow turmeric, you need to purchase turmeric rhizomes. They look sort of like ginger root, and can be found in most grocery or health food stores. Look for rhizomes with a lot of little bumps on the round portion sticking out of the root. These are called buds, and the number of buds on a rhizome will determine how big the plant gets.[2]
- If you can't find rhizomes at a store in your area, you can purchase them online.
- Get pots that are at least deep and wide. Once you plant your rhizomes, they'll need plenty of space in the pot to grow. Turmeric can grow up to tall, so choose a pot that will be big enough to support it as it grows. Ceramic or plastic pots or planters are perfectly fine for turmeric.[3]
- Use a planter or pot with good drainage at the bottom.
- You can use planters instead of pots if they have the same dimensions.
- If you're planting your turmeric outside, consider using a planter's box to ensure that the rhizome has enough space underneath it to grow. A simple box with a depth of should be more than enough.
- Cut the stem off of the rhizome if it came with one. Depending on the brand and style of rhizome that you purchased, the rhizomes may still be attached to the stem. The stem looks like a bulky chunk of dried garlic, and may have small hair-like branches sticking off of it. You can remove the rhizomes by pulling them off if they're dried out. Otherwise, use a knife to cut the stem off of your rhizomes.[4]
- You can cut your rhizome into smaller sections if you have smaller pots or planters.
- Cut your rhizomes into pieces so that each piece has 2-3 buds. Inspect a length of rhizome and count how many buds there are. The buds are the small bumps that extend out of the body of the rhizome. Cut sections of rhizome into smaller pieces so that each chunk has 2-3 buds on it.[5]
[Edit]Planting Your Rhizomes - Fill each planter or pot with of potting soil. Look at the label on a bag of soil to find a slightly alkaline soil with a pH between 6-8. Pour your soil into the pot so that the bottom third of your container is filled. You do not need to pat the soil down, but you can shift it around with your hands so that it's flat if you'd like to.[6]
- pH refers to the acidity level in soil. Turmeric grows best in soil that is slightly acidic.
- Lay a section of rhizome flat on top of the soil with the buds facing up. Place a rhizome in the center of the soil. Rotate the rhizome so that the majority of the buds are facing up towards the opening of the pot. If the buds are on random sides of the rhizome, rotate it so that the majority of the buds are pointing towards the opening of the pot, even if they're at an angle.[7]
- The stalks of your turmeric plant are going to grow out of the buds, so as long as most of them are facing the opening of the pot, they're likely to grow in the direction of the opening.
- Don't worry about a stalk growing out the bottom of your pot or planter. It will just die off when it can't get any sunlight after it grows.
- Cover the rhizome with potting soil, leaving at the top. Fill the rest of your pot or planter with your potting soil. Tilt the open bag of your soil over the top of your pot or planter and tip it downward to pour the soil. Cover each section of the pot or planter equally until you have a little bit of room at the top.
- Some ancient Asian or Indian methods of turmeric harvesting involve covering the rhizome in manure, fertilizer, or compost. This is not generally recommended for health reasons.
- Water your pots or planters thoroughly until the soil is visibly wet. Fill a water sprout or large cup with tap water and pour it liberally across the surface of your pot or planter until you've gotten each section of the soil wet. Water until the soil is visibly moist. Do this slowly to avoid drowning your rhizome.[8]
- Make sure that there is a base for your pot or planter if it has drainage holes at the bottom to avoid making a mess.
- Slip your pots or planters into clear plastic bags. Get planter bags or large plastic trash bags and slip your pots inside. Set each pot at the base of an individual bag and fold it over at the top so that the opening is restricted a little bit. Place your turmeric in the area that you plan on storing it.[9]
- If you're planting your turmeric in a garden, plant them in a greenhouse if you can. If you can't, consider making a miniature greenhouse for your plants.
- Your turmeric may still grow without a plastic bag or greenhouse, but keeping the plant humid is essential to making it sprout. If you can't store it in a greenhouse or bag, mist your turmeric every day with a spray bottle filled with water.
- You don't need to seal the bag. In fact, you want a little air flow to promote growth.
- Store your pots or planters in a warm place. Turmeric rhizomes grow when the temperature is . If the temperature drops below , your plant may die before it has had a chance to sprout.[10]
- If you don't have a warm place to store your turmeric, use a heating pad or desk lamp to keep it warm.
- If you don't want to keep your turmeric artificially warm and you don't have an appropriate place to store it, put it in a large plastic cooler in a temperate section of your home.
- It doesn't matter if your plants are exposed to light at this stage in the growing process.
- Water your turmeric every 2-3 days to keep the soil damp. Your rhizomes are going to need to be watered regularly, especially if you live in a warmer climate where the water is likely to evaporate very quickly. Check on your turmeric once every couple of days to see if the soil is damp. If it's still a little moist, you can wait another day before checking. Water your rhizomes with tap water until the soil at the top is visibly damp[11]
- Wait 6-10 months for your turmeric to grow. Your turmeric will begin to sprout after 6-10 months of watering in a warm climate. Once you see a stalk start to stick out of the planter or pot, it has started to grow into a mature plant. Leave your turmeric plants where they are until the stalks grow to in length.[12]
[Edit]Transferring Your Stalks Outdoors - Transfer your stalks to their final pot once the stalks are long. Once your stalks have emerged, you need to transfer them to a bigger pot or section of your garden where they can be exposed to sunlight. To transfer a plant, pour soil halfway into your new pot. Dig your hands into your turmeric pot's soil around the root to find the rhizome. Carefully lift it out of the soil, moving topsoil out of the way by hand as needed. Space plants in the same planter or planter's box at least apart from one another.[13]
- Use the same soil that you used to originally plant your rhizome.
- If you're growing your turmeric in your garden, you don't need to transfer your plant.
- If you're moving the plants into a planter's box, dig your hole so that the plant has at least of space around it in every direction.
- Move your plants to partial shade once they're in a bigger pot or planter. Find a place with partial shade to keep your leaves from getting burnt as it adjusts to the sunlight. Once you've transferred your plants into a bigger container, move them outdoors so that they can be exposed to sunlight and continue growing. Turmeric doesn't need a ton of light to stay healthy, and keeping it in partial shade for at least part of the day will ensure that the leaves don't dry out quickly.[14]
- You'll have to store your turmeric indoors near a window if it's still colder than outside.
- Water your outdoor plants every 2-3 days. Moving the plants outdoors is essential once the leaves have grown, as the plant will need sunlight to grow. Continue to water the plant as you normally did when it was indoors to keep your plant from drying out. If the plant doesn't get enough water, it will start to die.[15]
- Use the mist setting on your garden hose to water your plant to avoid damaging the leaves.
- Look out for damage or discoloration in your plant. If you find lots of physical damage to your leaves, it could be a sign that you have a thrips infestation or a caterpillar feeding on your plant. Use an organic pesticide like neem oil or a nontoxic soil treatment to ward off unwanted bugs.[16] When you remove or inspect a rhizome, if it looks gray or pale, it could be a sign of scale damage. Throw your rhizome out to prevent the infestation from spreading and then treat your soil with dimethoate.
- Turmeric plants are often unappealing to many insects in temperate regions of the world. Turmeric powder can even be used as a pesticide with some crops!
[Edit]Harvesting Your Plant - Harvest your turmeric when the leaves and stem start to brown and dry. At some point in the next 2-3 months, the turmeric plant will begin to brown and dry out. This is the best time to harvest your turmeric. If you continue to let the plant grow, it will slowly rot over time and ruin any potential turmeric that you could extract.[17]
- You can tell if your turmeric is almost ready for harvesting if it seems like it's struggling to retain water and dries out quickly.
- Cut the stems of your plant from the soil. To harvest the turmeric, you need to access the adult rhizomes underneath the soil. To start, use garden shears or a cutting knife to remove the stalks near the soil. Discard the leaves by composting them.[18]
- If the plant is dry enough, you should be able to simply snap the stalk near the bottom.
- Remove the rhizome and wash it in the sink. Once you've cut the stem, pull the remainder of the plant out of the soil by hand. Cut or snap off the remaining sections of stalk and take the mature rhizome to a sink to wash it. Run it under warm water and rub it softly by hand to remove the dirt and soil off of the rhizome.[19]
- Don't forcibly scrub the rhizome. You just need to remove the outer layers of dirt and soil before grinding, using, or storing it.
- Store any matured rhizomes in the refrigerator if you don't plan on using them. Place any rhizomes that you don't plan on using in an airtight plastic bag or storage container. You can store them in the fridge for up to 6 months without inflicting any damage on the flavor of the turmeric.[20]
- Boil and peel a rhizome to prepare it for grinding. To prepare a rhizome for grinding, boil a clean rhizome in a pot with water. Once the water reaches a rolling boil, turn it down to a simmer. After 45-60 minutes, drain the pot in a colander or strainer. You can rub the skin off of the rhizome after boiling it, although it's perfectly fine to leave it on.[21]
- You can tell if the rhizome is ready for grinding if a fork easily pierces it after boiling.
- Grind your rhizome to make turmeric powder. Let your rhizome dry out in the sun overnight. Put on some rubber gloves before making turmeric powder, since the orange powder that you're creating won't easily wash off of the skin. Cut your rhizome into smaller pieces and then grind it with a spice mill, grinder, or with a mortar and pestle until you've got a fine powder.[22]
- You can use a food dehydrator set to to dry your rhizome more quickly if you'd like. It's ready to cut and grind once it's brittle and dry. This process usually takes 30-45 minutes.
- Store turmeric powder in an airtight container designed for food storage.
[Edit]Warnings - Do not grind any rhizomes that have been treated with a nonorganic pesticide. Instead, wash and replant them for another cycle before using them.
- If your turmeric plants start to smell when they're being stored indoors, it may be a sign that the rhizomes are rotting from too much water.
- Turmeric takes a long time to grow and requires a lot of water to stay healthy. If you know that you're going to be gone for a long period of time at some point in the next year, you may want to hold off on growing turmeric.
[Edit]Things You'll Need - Pots
- Planters
- Turmeric rhizomes
- Potting soil
- Plastic bags
- Cooler (optional)
- Lamp (optional)
- Heating pad (optional)
- Rubber gloves
- Spice mill, grinder, or mortar and pestle
[Edit]References |
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