| How to Troubleshoot a Dryer That Smells Like It Is Burning Posted: 26 Feb 2020 04:00 PM PST A burning smell coming from your dryer is not a good sign—it's a fire hazard. Try removing any built up lint from the lint catcher, cleaning the inside of the dryer, and/or cleaning the hose duct and vents. If the smell persists, you may need to check the electrical components inside the dryer and have them replaced. Stop using the dryer immediately and, if necessary, call an electrician to fix it. [Edit]Removing Lint Buildup - Remove any lint from the lint catcher. This is the small mesh screen that pulls in and out of the dryer. For forward-facing dryers, it can be located on the front of the loading panel. For top-load dryers, it may be located under a small flap.[1]
- Clean the lint catcher after each load to avoid lint buildup and, consequently, a fire hazard.
- Unplug the power cord from the wall. Disconnecting the power is a necessary safety precaution before messing with any parts of your dryer. If you have a gas dryer, turn the gas valve on the dryer line or turn the valve supplying gas to your whole house. Then unscrew the flex hose to disconnect the dryer from the gas line and use a gas line cap to seal the line until you're done cleaning the dryer.[2]
- If you're not sure whether your dryer is gas or electric, refer to the manual or look up the manufacturer and model number online for more information.
- Some dryer manuals will also give you specific cleaning instructions.
- Use a screwdriver to remove the top panel of your dryer. Lint can build up in the screen (especially if you don't clean it after each load), falling down into the shaft that holds the lint catcher. Removing the top panel will allow you to clean any lint that may have fallen beyond the lint trap. First you'll need to take out the screws located around the opening of the lint trap. Then pull the entire top panel towards you and lift it up to release the metal catches.[3]
- If your dryer faces forward, the metal catches are typically located about to down from the top and up from the floor. You'll have to slide the panel upwards or downwards depending on how your dryer is assembled.
- If your dryer has a condenser unit that holds the lint trap, remove it from the dryer and rinse away any lint under the faucet of a large sink. Make sure to rinse both sides of the unit and let it air dry for a few hours before inserting it back into the dryer.
- You may need to wedge a screwdriver between the top or front panel and the base of the dryer to pry it open.
- Use a dryer brush to remove lint from the lint filter opening. Depending on your dryer, the lint filter opening will look like a rectangular tray (this is where the lint catcher slides in and out) or a deep crevice (for front loading machines). Stick a dryer cleaning brush down into it and twist it around, moving it back and forth to get all of the lint out.[4]
- You can purchase a dryer lint cleaning kit at any hardware store.
- If you don't have a lint cleaning brush, you can use a large pipe brush cleaner or a vacuum with a hose attachment that's small enough to fit inside the opening.
- Replace the lint trap, the lint panel, and plug in the dryer to test it. After cleaning the most common places for lint to accumulate, replace all the parts and reconnect the dryer to the power source. If your dryer is gas-powered, reconnect the gas line and turn it on. Run the dryer for up to 1 or 2 minutes to see if the burning smell is gone.[5]
- If there's no smell you can use your dryer as usual—just remember to clean out the lint trap after each load.
- If the burning smell persists, there may be lint stuck around the parts inside of the dryer.
[Edit]Vacuuming the Inside of the Dryer - Unplug the power cord and disconnect the gas, if applicable. You'll need to shut off the power and gas to stay safe before opening up the body of your dryer. If your dryer is gas-powered, turn the gas valve on the dryer line to the "off" position or turn off the valve supplying gas to your whole house. Then unscrew the flex hose to disconnect the dryer from the gas line and use a gas line cap to seal the line.[6]
- Refer to the manual that came with your electric or gas dryer if you're not sure where to locate the power cord or gas line.
- Use a screwdriver to wedge open and remove the bottom panel. Insert a screwdriver into the gaps close to the where the catches are (usually at the top corners of the panel). You may need to slide the screwdriver to the left or right and wiggle it around until the catches release.[7]
- Refer to your dryer's manual to see exactly where the catches are and if there are any additional instructions about how to remove the panel.
- If your dryer doesn't have a removable panel underneath where you load clothes, you may need to slide it away from the wall and remove the back panel.
- Use a vacuum's hose attachment to suck out any lint buildup. Sometimes lint can drop into the body of the dryer, coming in contact with the heating element and causing the lint to heat up (hence the burning smell). Use a vacuum attachment to clean out all the lint.[8]
- Reattach both panels, replace the lint screen, and test the dryer. Reattach the bottom and top panels, sliding and pushing them into the correct position until you hear the catchers click into place. Then replace the screws on the lint trap opening before plugging in the dryer. Run it for about 1 or 2 minutes and if you still notice the burning smell, stop it immediately and unplug it again.
- If the smell persists, you may need to clean the hose duct or call a professional.
[Edit]Cleaning the Hose and Vent - Unplug the power cord from the wall for safety purposes. Make sure there is no electrical current running to your dryer before you handle any parts of it. If your dryer is gas-powered, you should also turn off the gas. Turn the valve connecting your dryer to the gas line to the off position or shut off the main valve that supplies gas to your entire house.[9]
- Unscrew the flex hose to disconnect the dryer from the gas line and use a gas line cap to seal the line until you're done cleaning the dryer.
- Failing to disconnect the power can result in moderate shocks to electrocution, so be sure to disconnect it!
- Slide the dryer away from the wall to access the exhaust hose. Slowly pull the dryer away from the wall so you can access the venting hose, the flexible tube connected to the back of your dryer.[10]
- Depending on your model, the hose may look shiny and silvery or like white corrugated plastic.
- Use a screwdriver to unscrew the clamps that hold the hose in place. Loosen and unscrew the clamps that keep the hose attached to the dryer and the wall. Detach each end of the hose and pull out as much lint as you can with your hand. Use a vacuum with a long wand attachment to clean deeper into the tube.[11]
- Clean out the hose every 6 months or so because lint buildup is a fire hazard.
- Look at both ends of the hose to check for any kinks—these small depressions can reduce airflow and allow bits of lint to get into the central dryer cabinet.
- Dryer repair companies can also clean this for you if you don't want to do it yourself.
- Use a dryer vent cleaning brush to clean out lint from the vent. The vent is where the hose attaches to the wall. It's easy for lint to get trapped in the vent. Use a cleaning brush with a long stick attachment to pull out lint, making sure to clean as far into the vent as you can.[12] long stick attachments. You can fit these together to make a or cleaning tool to go deeper into the vent if necessary.}}
[Edit]Inspecting Internal Parts - Use a multimeter to see if you need a new thermostat. The thermostat monitors the internal temperature of the dryer and shuts it off if it gets too hot. If your thermostat is broken, the burning smell could be due to overheating. Unplug the machine, remove the back panel of the dryer, and remove the small cylindrical or rectangular-shaped thermostat by disconnecting the wires from both sides. Then set your multimeter to the lowest ohm reading (RX1) and place the two probes of the meter to the terminals (on one each, it doesn't matter which color probe goes on which side).[13]
- The terminals are the two metal prongs on either side of the thermostat.
- Before disconnecting the thermostat wires, take a photo to keep track of which wires go where or jot it down on a notepad.
- At room temperature, the multimeter should have a reading of zero. If it reads infinity, get it replaced.
- Inspect the heating element in electrical dryers for signs of breakage or burning. The heating element looks like a coil (made of nickel and chrome) or series of interconnected coils housed inside a small open-faced box. Unplug the machine and remove the back panel in order to access it. Take it out by unscrewing the sensors located at the top and bottom of the vessel and unhooking the 2 wires located below the bottom screw.[14]
- Be sure to inspect each coil. If you see any dark spots (blackening) or broken coils, call a repair service to replace the element.
- If two adjacent coils are touching (as if they've been smashed together like a slinky), it could cause an electrical short and needs to be replaced.
- You can also use a multimeter to test for proper functioning. Set the multimeter to the continuity setting and press the probes onto the wire terminals (one on each terminal) located at the outside corner of the encasing. If the multimeter beeps, the element is still good. If it makes no sound, the element needs to be replaced.[15]
- Inspect the wires attached to the heating element in a gas dryer. If you have a gas dryer, the heating element is located inside the electrical cabinet on the backside of the dryer. Look for a long white or silver cylindrical tube (the combustion tube) with two or three wires attached. If the wires or old or have come unattached, they may have partially melted and caused the burning smell.[16]
- Call a professional to replace the belt if you see physical slack or damage. The belt loops around the drum, under the pulley, and around the motor pulley. A worn out belt might loosen, causing slippage, friction, and heat (hence the burning smell). Unplug the dryer, slide it away from the wall, and remove the back panel to access the belt. It should be tightly wound around something that looks like a pulley system.[17]
- In some models, the belt and motor pulley are located toward the front of the machine. If this is the case, remove the front panel in order to access and inspect the belt.
- Use your hand to tug on the belt, making sure it remains taught. If you notice any slack, parts that appear melted, or sections that have been rubbed away (revealing the internal fibers), call a professional to replace it.
- Be careful when inserting your hand into the body of the dryer, the edges of the cabinets and internal casings are sharp!
- Depending on the make and model of your dryer, the belt will be located either behind the back panel or behind the front bottom panel.
- Get a dryer lint cleaning kit from any hardware store to help you clean out lint buildup.
- Have a friend or family member help you remove the top or front panels of the dryer.
- Read the instruction manual that came with your dryer for disassembly and cleaning instructions.
[Edit]Warnings - Always unplug the dryer before cleaning it.
- If the burning smell persists, you may have an electrical issue inside the dryer. Do not use the dryer and call a professional repair service.
[Edit]Things You'll Need [Edit]Removing Lint Buildup - Screwdriver
- Dryer lint cleaning brush
- Vacuum (with hose attachment)
- Dryer lint cleaning kit (optional)
[Edit]Cleaning the Venting Hose and Duct - Screwdriver
- Vacuum (with hose attachment)
- Dryer lint cleaning kit (optional)
[Edit]Inspecting Electrical Parts - Multimeter (for thermostat and element inspection)
- Screwdriver (for thermostat and belt inspection)
[Edit]References [Edit]Quick Summary |
| How to Decorate Candles Posted: 26 Feb 2020 08:00 AM PST A few candles can light up a room with their warm glow, but they add even more to your decor with a few unique, pretty embellishments. With a some glue, a few decorations, and lots of creativity, you can transform a plain candle into the centerpiece of your table. [Edit]Decorating with Glitter - Place paper on the areas you don't want to glitter. You can wrap strips of tissue paper around the candle and tie them in place, or tape down individual pieces to create different designs. Plan out what you want your candle to look like, then tie down or attach the paper with Scotch tape to start the decorating process.[1]
- Brush Mod Podge on the areas you want to cover. Use a paintbrush or a crafting brush to spread a thin, even layer of Mod Podge on the candle. You can paint over the edges of the paper to ensure full coverage, but try not to cover the paper completely.[2]
- If you don't have Mod Podge, you can make your own or use regular liquid glue, although the glitter may not stay on as long.
- Sprinkle glitter over the candle. Thick coats of glitter look best on candles, making the glitter look neater and more professional. You shouldn't be able to see any of the candle surface underneath. You'll get glitter on your work surface, so put down newspapers beforehand to catch it. Tap the bottom of the candle gently against the surface when you're done to knock off any extra glitter.[3]
- Match the glitter color to your candle and your event. You might pair red glitter with a white candle for the holidays, for example, or put black glitter on an orange candle for Halloween.
- Let the candle dry, then seal it with Mod Podge sealer. Leave the candle standing up on your work surface overnight to dry. When it's dry, remove the paper cut outs and spray the glitter with Mod Podge clear sealer to help it stay on longer.[4]
[Edit]Painting Candles - Clean the candle surface with rubbing alcohol to remove any dust. Dampen a lint-free cloth with rubbing alcohol. Wipe the surface of the candle with it to prepare it for painting.[5]
- Dab your candle with candle varnish and let it dry overnight. Wet a makeup sponge with candle and soap colors varnish, then dab it across the surface of the candle in an even, smooth coat. Let it set overnight.[6]
- Varnish prepares your candle for paint, keeping the paint in place and protecting it from wear and tear.
- You can find the varnish online or in craft stores.
- Mark off the areas you don't want to paint with tape or rubber bands. If you don't want to paint your whole candle, you can make stripes or designs with painter's tape or rubber bands. Press the paint or rubber bands flush against the candle to make them easy to paint around.[7]
- Paint the candle with acrylic paint. Use acrylic paint and a thin paintbrush to paint your candle in a smooth, even layer. If you're painting with different colors, paint all of the sections in one color before rinsing your brush and moving onto the next, or use separate brushes.[8]
- Set down a newspaper on your painting surface to keep it clean.
- Let it dry overnight and use varnish to give it a shiny finish. Check your candle the next day. If you can see the candle through the paint, apply another coat. Let it dry again, then remove the tape. To prevent the paint from chipping and give it a glossy appearance, you can dab an even coat of varnish over the entire candle.[9]
[Edit]Decorating with Images on Tissue Paper - Print a photo onto white tissue paper. Cut a sheet of white or transparent tissue paper just smaller than a sheet of printer paper. Then, tape it onto the printer paper, shiny side down. Feed the paper into the printer so that your image prints onto the tissue side.[10]
- Most printers flip the paper over before printing, so you'll need to place your paper tissue side-down. Check your printer's instructions to make sure.
- You can transfer a photo, an illustration, or even a few words onto your candle.
- Cut out the picture. Use regular scissors to cut the picture out of the tissue paper. Leave a thin border around the edges, and make sure that your picture isn't too big to fit completely on the side of your candle.[11]
- Place the picture on the candle and wrap wax paper around it. Wrap the picture around your candle so that it's flush against it on all sides. Wrap a piece of wax paper tightly around it, covering the whole candle.[12]
- Make sure there are no creases in the wax paper.
- Apply a heat tool, like a hair dryer or heat gun, to the picture. Run an embossing heat gun over the image to embed it into the candle. Watch the ink as you heat it—you should be able to see it coming through darker and more clearly, which means it's done.[13]
- If you don't have a heat gun, use a hair dryer on the hottest setting. Use the diffuser attachment or wear gloves to protect your hands from the heat.
- Peel off the wax paper gently and throw it away. Slowly and gently pull away the wax paper, like you're peeling away a temporary tattoo. The picture should stay behind as a unique candle decoration.[14]
[Edit]Embellishing Candles with Cute Items - Bedazzle your candles with plastic jewels. Buy rhinestones or plastic jewels at a craft store and use super glue to attach them to your candle. Arrange them in a cool pattern or fun design, or simply sprinkle them across the candle randomly. Use matching colors on a plain candle for the best look.[15]
- You can also buy rhinestones with sticky backs that can attach directly to the candle.
- Ring your candle with cinnamon sticks for a homey look and sweet scent. Buy enough cinnamon sticks to surround the candle. Place a small dot of hot glue on the back of each and press it against the candle, placing it vertically with the bottom in line with the bottom of the candle. Continue all the way around the candle, then tie a piece of ribbon around them for decoration.[16]
- You can embellish it even more with a sprig of holly or cranberries.
- Use a ribbon to tie flowers onto your candle. For a simple, pretty decoration, use matching ribbon to tie a real or fake flower to the outside of your candle. You can even layer on multiple ribbons for a fancier look.[17]
- Consider removing the flowers or cutting them shorter as the candle burns down.
- Wind bright yarn or fabric around the candle for a striped look. Choose a ribbon or yarn that matches or offsets your candle color, then twirl it around the candle to create a striped, candy cane effect. Tilting the ribbon at an angle, so that the stripes are slanting diagonally across the candle, makes it look even more professional.[18]
- Glue on seashells and sand for a beachy vibe. Use a paintbrush to spread Mod Podge or liquid glue on the bottom half or third of your candle. Roll it through beach sand, then let it dry overnight. When it's done, glue a shell just above the sand, or tie it on with twine or string.[19]
- This method looks best with a plain white or cream candle.
- You can add as many seashells as you like.
[Edit]Related wikiHows [Edit]References [Edit]Quick Summary |
| How to Make a Picnic Blanket Posted: 26 Feb 2020 12:00 AM PST A homemade picnic blanket makes for a great gift or a fun, simple sewing project. While you do need to know how to sew to make one, it's not a particularly difficult project to complete compared to many other items. To make a picnic blanket, select a thick, durable fabric for your blanket and purchase at least 2 sheets of the fabric. Get a layer of flexible vinyl if you want to waterproof the underside of your blanket. Then, set your fabric with the pattern facing down. Add any padding or cotton batting on top if you want a fluffier blanket. Lay the second layer of fabric on top and sew the edges to secure them. You can also add straps if you want to store your blanket using strips of nylon and special fabric Velcro strips. [Edit]Designing Your Blanket and Buying Fabric - Make an blanket for a traditional size. You can make your blanket however big you'd like. Typically, picnic blankets are roughly in length and in width. Sketch the dimensions of your blanket out and write the size down so you can reference the size when you go to purchase your fabric.[1]
- If you want to visualize how big a blanket will end up being, lay down 2 measuring tapes on the ground based on your planned length and width.
- You can make a square-shaped blanket if you prefer, but most people prefer blankets with a short side to make the blanket easier to roll up and store.
- Select a durable fabric with a beautiful pattern for your blanket. You can use any kind of fabric to make a picnic blanket, but comfortable water-resistant textiles like polyester fleece, microfiber, and wool will work best. Choose a pattern that looks interesting you. You can choose any color that you'd like, but bright summer colors like red, green, purple, or orange will work well.[2]
- Soft denim is another popular fabric for DIY blankets.
- If you want a reversible blanket with a different pattern on both sides, get 2 different patterns or colors.
- You can get a quilted picnic blanket pattern if you'd like to give your blanket a traditional look. If you're feeling ambitious, you can get a variety of fabrics and sew the quilt together yourself. This is much more difficult and time-consuming, though.
- Purchase at least twice as much fabric as you need based on your dimensions. If you want your picnic blanket to be , get at least enough fabric for a blanket that is . This way, you'll be able to fold the fabric in half to increase the thickness of your blanket. It will also give you some extra fabric to work with in the event that you accidentally tear some of it. Buy your fabric online or at a local craft shop.[3]
- If you want to fill the blanket with padding or if you're using a thick material, like denim, you can purchase less fabric. It's still good to have some extra fabric though.
- If you're going to use padding, purchase cotton batting or upholstery foam.
- Get a sheet of vinyl fabric if you want to waterproof your blanket. A vinyl picnic blanket typically refers to a blanket with a vinyl cover on the bottom. This vinyl sheet will protect the fabric and keep moisture out. Purchase a sheet of soft vinyl big enough to cover your blanket on one side.[4]
- Vinyl isn't a particularly comfortable material to sit or lay on, so don't use a vinyl back if you want your blanket to be reversible.
[Edit]Cutting and Sewing the Fabric - Mark your dimensions on the fabric using fabric chalk. Set your fabric out face-down on a large, flat surface. Use heavy objects or clamps to keep the fabric taut. Use a measuring tape to measure the length of each side of your blanket. To mark each cut, set a yardstick or some other straight edge out on your fabric. Use the edge to draw your length and width out using fabric chalk.[5]
- You can use a fabric marker instead of the chalk if you prefer, but the chalk is much easier to erase.
- Repeat this process for the second layer of fabric that you're using. You will sew the 2 pieces of fabric together after cutting them out.
- If your fabric is thinner and you're going to fold it over, double the dimensions of your blanket. This is a good idea if you're using a thin fabric, like polyester.
- If you're installing a vinyl cover on one side of the blanket to keep water out, spread the vinyl sheet out first. After you cut your fabric, trace the shape of the blanket on the vinyl and cut it separately.
- Cut the fabric using sewing scissors or a rotary cutter. If you have a steady hand, feel free to cut your fabric out with sewing scissors. Alternatively, set a cutting mat out underneath the fabric and use a rotary cutter to carve clean lines. Cut carefully along each of the lines that you've marked to cut your fabric out.[6]
- Work slowly to ensure that you don't accidentally deviate from the marks that you've made. If you cut into the fabric of your blanket, you'll need to repeat this process.
- Cut the vinyl separately if you're using a waterproof cover on one of the blanket's sides. Depending on the thickness of the vinyl, you may be able to cut it with standard scissors. Otherwise, use a rotary cutter.
- Spread a layer of padding or cotton batting out if you're filling the blanket. If you're filling your blanket with some kind of padding, set your material out in the middle of your fabric. Spread it out by hand or unroll the padding until you're happy with the thickness of the material. You can add as many layers of padding as you'd like. Distribute the padding evenly so that it is flush with the edges of your first layer of fabric.[7]
- Filling the blanket with padding is entirely optional. You can fill it if you want the blanket to be fluffy and soft, but many people prefer thinner picnic blankets.
- If you cut out fabric that is twice as big as the dimensions of the blanket, grip a corner of the fabric. Fold it over to the corner of the opposite side to make it thicker before adding any padding.
- Set your 2 layers of fabric on top of one another. Take your second piece of fabric and set it on top of the first sheet with the pattern facing up. Line the corners up and pull the fabric taut before clamping it in place. Alternatively, you can set heavy objects near the corners after matching them up and setting them down.[8]
- Pin the fabric in place to keep the layers from sliding around. Once your corners are lined up, use sewing pins to secure the fabric in place so that it doesn't spread around while you sew it. Go around the edges of your fabric and insert 1 pin every . Place your pins from the exterior edge of each side. Push the pin through one side of the fabric and run it through the opposite side. Repeat this process until you've lined every side of your blanket.[9]
- You can fold each edge over itself before pinning the layers in place if you'd like a cleaner edge. If you do this, iron the edges in place before pinning it.[10]
- Stitch the edges of your blanket with a strong thread to secure it. Run a strong thread through your sewing machine and set a corner of your blanket under the machine. Plug the machine in and set the speed on your machine to its lowest setting. Press the foot pedal or use the automatic setting to stitch the blanket. Move the fabric as you sew by pulling it towards you slowly. Repeat this process on each side to finish sewing the edges.[11]
- A running stitch is the easiest pattern to use here, but you can use a zigzag stitch if you prefer.
- Do this away from your pins to avoid stitching them into your blanket or damaging your machine.
- You can do this by hand if you'd like. If you do, run your thread through each side of the blanket to stitch a zigzag into each of the edges.
- Sew additional seams through the middle of your blanket if you filled the blanket with padding. Place 1 seam every running lengthwise and widthwise through your blanket. This will keep the padding from shifting around.
- Remove the pins when you're done sewing the blanket.
- Sew bias tape around the edges of your blanket to secure the stitching. Purchase a spool of bias tape from your local fabric or craft store. Spread the tape out and open the fold in the middle. Place the end of your tape along a corner of your blanket so that the crease meets the seam of the fabric. Fold it around the seam and pin it place. Sew along the edge of each length of tape to secure it to the blanket.[12]
- Run your pins away from the edge of your bias tape where it meets the main fabric of the blanket. Place 1 pin every to keep the tape from sliding around.
- Bias tape is a sewing material that is used for securing stitches and keep edges safe. It looks like a thin roll of fabric that is folded in half lengthwise.
- You can skip the bias tape and simply trim any frayed edges with sewing scissors if you prefer.
[Edit]Adding Storage Straps - Get Velcro strips and some strong nylon straps. If you want to make a roll-up picnic blanket, purchase 2 heavy-duty Velcro strips with adhesive backing. Nylon is the best choice for your straps but you can use another strong fabric if you prefer. Purchase strips in a pattern and color that will work well with your blanket.[13]
- Make sure that the Velcro strips are designed to stick on fabric by reading the label carefully before purchasing them.
- If you can't find Velcro strips that will work with fabric, you can sew standard Velcro strips into the blanket instead.
- Get straps that are long so that they can wrap all the way around your blanket when you roll it up.
- You do not have to add straps if you don't want to. They'll make it easy to store and carry your blanket, though.
- Roll your blanket up and stick the Velcro backs onto it. To determine where you want to place your strips, roll your blanket up so that the backside of the blanket is facing out. Then, select 2 locations for your strips. Place the 2 strips out from the top of the roll on the shorter side of the blanket and in from the exterior edges. Peel the adhesive backing off and carefully press the back into your fabric or iron them into place.[14]
- You do not need to fold the blanket up before rolling it up. However, if you plan on folding and storing your blanket a particular way, feel free to adjust this process by folding the blanket before rolling it.
- Adhere the Velcro to the end of each nylon strap. Take your first nylon strap and stick the other end of the Velcro strip at the end of the strap. Repeat this process on the other nylon strap. If you sewed the straps to your blanket, sew them to the straps instead to ensure that the tension on each piece of fabric is roughly the same.[15]
- Roll the blanket up and determine where to place your straps. Roll the blanket up tight and hold it in place. Then, use the Velcro strips to attach each strap to your blanket. Next, wrap the straps around your blanket to find out where you need to attach them to keep the blanket tight when you roll it up. Place a hash mark with fabric chalk where you want to put your straps.[16]
- If you want to make things simple, you can cut the straps at the point where they wrap around the blanket and meet your Velcro after 1 rotation. This way, you can sew the strap directly under the Velcro strip on your blanket.
- Pin and sew the straps into the blanket. Place your strap against the blanket where you made the hash mark and pin the strap in place. Then, use your sewing machine to stitch the nylon strap into your blanket. This way, when you roll the blanket up you can simply push the Velcro strips together to keep it from coming unraveled. Repeat this process with the other strap.[17]
[Edit]Things You'll Need - Measuring tape
- Fabric
- Cotton batting (optional)
- Fabric chalk
- Clamps or heavy objects (optional)
- Vinyl (optional)
- Rotary cutter or sewing scissors
- Thread
- Bias tape
- Sewing machine
- Needle (optional)
- Sewing pins
- Nylon straps (optional)
- Velcro strips (optional)
[Edit]References |
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