| How to Do Needlepoint Posted: 17 Feb 2020 04:00 PM PST Needlepoint is an enjoyable hobby that you can take anywhere and it only requires the use of a few basic types of stitches. Create designs on a painted or blank canvas, and then turn your designs into a new decorative item. You can make key chains, belts, pillows, bookmarks, stockings, belt buckles, or almost anything with your needlepoint designs. [Edit]Setting up Your Needlepoint Materials - Choose a canvas and mounting materials. Visit a craft supply store to find a canvas and a frame or stretcher bars and tacks. You can purchase a blank canvas if you plan to draw your own needlepoint design onto it, or you can buy a canvas that already has a design printed on it. Choose a frame that will be large enough to hold your canvas.[1]
- A premade needlepoint design is the best option if you are new to needlepoint.
- Bind the edges of your canvas with masking tape. Always wash your hands before you touch the canvas to avoid getting any dirt or grime onto it.[2] This will keep the edges from unraveling while you work. Use wide or smaller tape. Fold the tape along the edges of the canvas to cover them completely from end to end.
- You can also hem the edges of the canvas with a sewing machine to prevent them from unraveling.
- Mount the canvas in a frame to hold it taut while you work. Unscrew the edges of the frame and place 1 piece onto a flat surface, such as a table. Lay the canvas on the frame and tug the edges of the canvas to open it up completely. Then, place the other side of the frame over the top of the canvas and secure the pieces together to hold the canvas taut.[3]
- You can also use stretcher bars and tacks to secure your canvas.
- Avoid working on loose canvas. This may increase your chances of distorting the fabric when you pull stitches taut.
- Thread a needle with an length of embroidery floss. Hold the thread in one hand and the needle in the other (eye up). Then, insert the tip of the thread into the eye of the needle and pull it through by about .[4]
- You can use any type of embroidery floss, thread, or yarn you like to do needle point. However, a multi-strand embroidery floss is recommended since you can pull it apart as needed for thinner stands.
- If you have a hard time threading the needle, insert the tip of the thread into your mouth and wet it with your saliva. This will stiffen the thread and make it easier to push through the eye of the needle.
- Secure the thread to the canvas with a waste knot. Tie the knot near the end of the long piece of thread. Then, insert the needle into the canvas on the right (front) side about from where you want to begin stitching. Then, bring the needle back out through the wrong (back) side of the fabric where you want to create the first stitch.[5]
- Make sure that you attach the waste knot in the same row that you want to start stitching.
- You will cut the waste knot after you stitch over the area around it, so don't worry about it being visible.
[Edit]Working Basic Stitches - Do a half-cross stitch for a simple stitch that covers a small area. Insert the needle through the wrong (back) side of the canvas. Choose a space at the top left of your canvas or at the top left of a block of color. Bring the needle through a space on the right (front) side of the canvas that is diagonally-adjacent to the stitch on the right side. Then, repeat the same stitch to create a stitch alongside your first stitch.[6]
- Work from left to right in a row across the canvas, and then work the stitch back along the row in the opposite direction.
- As you sew the second row, the second diagonal stitch should go through a space that already has thread going through it. This will help to reduce the visible canvas behind the thread.
- Use the continental stitch to provide more coverage over an area. Insert the needle into the space where you want to begin working the continental stitch. Then, bring the needle up diagonally and down through the stitch adjacent and to the right of that stitch. Then, come up through the next space in the row beside where you started the stitch.[7]
- Continue to work across the row going from right to left. Then, work back along the next row going from left to right.
- Make sure to insert the needle through spaces that already have 1 stitch in them on your second row.
- Try basketweave stitch to provide full coverage over large areas. Work this stitch diagonally starting at the top right hand corner of the area. Bring the needle down through the space that is diagonal to this space. Then, bring the needle back up through the space that is diagonally adjacent to this stitch, and repeat the stitch.[8]
- This stitch creates a pyramid like stitch design. It allows good coverage of the canvas with the least distortion and should be used in large areas.
- Do the brick stitch for a vertical stitch with good coverage. Insert your needle through the canvas where you want to begin the stitch. Bring the thread all the way through the canvas and pull it taut. Then, insert the needle into the second stitch up from where you brought the needle out. Bring the needle back through the canvas next to where you started the first stitch.[9]
- Use a thick thread, yarn, or multi-strand piece of embroidery floss to create the brick stitch.
- You can also try the Bargello or long point stitch for a more advanced vertical stitch.[10]
[Edit]Completing a Project - Work on the smallest or most detailed area first. Always start with the smallest, most detailed areas when you do needlework projects. This will be easier than trying to go in and stitch those areas later. Then, stitch the larger areas that surround the more detailed bits.[11]
- For example, if you have a section that is only about wide, start here rather than the section that is wide.
- Change the thread when you run out or need to switch colors. Insert the needle into the right side of the project. Then, push the needle through the back of the nearest 3 to 4 stitches and snip the thread near the stitches. Then, thread your needle with your next color or with the same color if you have more of this that you need to work. Create a waste knot, and keep stitching![12]
- Block the canvas if it has become distorted. Blocking your needlepoint is a way to reshape the canvas and give it a more structured look. Remove the canvas from the frame and dampen it with water, such as by spritzing it with a spray bottle. Then, lay it on a pillow or towel with the right side facing down. Pin it down with tacks or pins at intervals all the way around. Allow the canvas to dry completely before removing it.[13]
- The canvas should take only a few hours to dry, but you may want to leave it out overnight to be sure.
- Sew the finished design onto an item. You can turn your finished needlework into a pillow, sweatshirt, purse, or wall decoration. Trim the canvas as needed and then use a sewing machine or needle and thread to sew the canvas onto your item.[14]
- For example, you could sew your finished needlework project onto a pillowcase, a sweatshirt, or the side of a canvas bag.
- Your thread will probably become twisted as you stitch. Every few stitches let the needle dangle so it can unwind.
[Edit]Warnings - Always work on projects in an area with good lighting. Do not try to work with bad lighting and strain your eyes.
[Edit]Things You'll Need - Needlepoint canvas (size 14)
- Tapestry needles (size 20 or 22)
- Embroidery floss, thread, or yarn
- Frame or stretcher bars and tacks
- Scissors
- Masking tape
- Pins
- Tote or canvas bag (optional)
[Edit]Related wikiHows
[Edit]References |
| How to Improve Hip Mobility Posted: 17 Feb 2020 08:00 AM PST Tight hips can limit your mobility and make you feel stiff, which can be frustrating. Your hips may feel tight because you live a sedentary lifestyle or have a prior injury. Fortunately, doing hip flexibility stretches may help increase your hip mobility. Additionally, hip exercises improve your mobility while also strengthening your muscles, especially if you do hip mobility drills. However, check with your doctor or a physical therapist before you do hip exercises and always warm up with 10-15 minutes of cardio. [Edit]Doing Stretches to Improve Hip Mobility - Do stretches after being immobile for a long time. Stretching after you've been sitting or lying in one position for a long time can help loosen up your hips and prevent stiffness. Stretch first thing in the morning after sleeping, or any time you have to sit for an extended period (such as at work or after a long car ride).
- It's also a good idea to stretch before and after exercise to help warm up your muscles and prevent stiffness and cramping.
- Perform 1 hip stretch daily if you're short on time. You can get results with a single hip stretch every day. Pick your favorite hip stretch or alternate the stretches you do every day. If you're consistent, your hips will likely start to feel looser and more flexible.[1]
- For instance, you might do a different stretch each day.
- If a particular stretch feels more comfortable to you, stick to that stretch until you feel ready to try a different one.
- Do a series of hip stretches 5-7 days a week to get better results. You'll likely notice results faster if you do multiple hip stretches every day. Spend 15-30 minutes daily stretching your hips to help improve their mobility. Do each of the stretches to the best of your abilities, and stop if something feels uncomfortable.[2]
- Aim to do your hip stretches 5-7 days a week after cardio activity.
- Press your knees into your chest to stretch your hips. Lie down and stretch out on an exercise mat or the floor, with your arms at your sides. Slowly raise your right knee toward your chest and hold for 30 seconds. Lower your leg back down to the floor and repeat with your left leg.[3]
- Do 8-10 knee raises on each side daily to help stretch out your hips.
- This activity stretches the piriformis muscles, which attach your lower spine to your legs on both sides. Stretching the piriformis can help with hip flexion, or the motion of bringing your hip and leg towards your abdomen.
- Do a hip flexor stretch to open up your hips. Kneel down on your left knee and place your right leg in front of you with your foot flat on the floor. Both of your legs should be in 90-degree angles. Place your left hand on your left hip, then slightly push your hips forward to stretch. Keep your chest and back straight, and don't bend forward. Hold the stretch for 30 seconds.[4]
- Switch legs and repeat on the other side.
- Do the stretch daily to help open up your hips.
- If the knee that's on the floor hurts, place a pillow or towel under it to cushion it.
- Perform a lunge with a spinal twist. Stand up tall with your core engaged and your feet hip-width apart. Then, step forward with your right leg, bend your knees, and lower your body until both knees are at 90-degree angles. Extend your arms and twist your torso, lowering your right hand down to the floor. Extend your left arm up toward the sky and gently twist your head to look at your hand. Hold for 30 seconds, then slowly rise back to your starting position.[5]
- Switch to the other side, then do 10 repetitions on each side. Repeat the exercise as often as once a day to help open up your hips.
- Make sure your front knee doesn't go out past your toes.
- Listen to your body and only go as far as you can. Stop stretching if it feels tight or painful.
- Keep it simple with a butterfly stretch. Sit on an exercise mat or the floor with your legs bent in lotus position. Press the soles of your feet together and hold your feet in your hands. Press your feet into the floor, then slowly push your heels back toward your hips as far as you comfortably can. Hold for 30 seconds, then release.[6]
- Repeat for 10 repetitions to help improve your hip mobility. You can do the stretch every day or a few times per week.
- Open up your hips with a 90/90 stretch. Sit down on the floor and place your right leg in a 90-degree angle in front of your body with your foot pointed to the left. Rest your left leg on the floor at your side to help you stay balanced. Press your right butt cheek into the floor, then lower your left butt cheek toward the floor as far as you can go. Hold for 30 seconds.[7]
- You likely won't be able to push your left butt cheek all the way down to the floor. Go as far down as you can without the stretch feeling painful.
- Do this stretch as often as every day.
[Edit]Performing Hip Mobility Exercises - Do step-ups to open up your hips. Stand up straight in front of a step or sturdy box. Lift 1 leg and step up onto the step or box. Then, bring your other leg up onto the step or box. Use your lead foot to step back down to the floor.[8]
- Do 2-3 sets of 10-15 step-ups on each leg.
- Perform weighted lunges to work your hips. Stand up straight with dumbbells in each of your hands. Step forward with your right leg, then bend both legs into 90-degree angles to lower your body down toward the floor. Hold for 10-15 seconds, then rise back to your starting position to complete 1 repetition.[9]
- Do 2-3 sets of 8-12 weighted lunges on each leg.
- Start out with a lower weight, such as an weight on each side. Then, increase your weights as you get stronger.
- Do weighted squats to open your hips and work your muscles. Stand up straight with your legs slightly wider than shoulder-width apart. Hold dumbbells at your hips or shoulders to increase the intensity of the exercise. Bend your knees to slowly lower yourself into a sitting position. Hold for 30 seconds, then slowly rise back to your starting position.[10]
- Do 2-3 sets of 12-15 weighted squats.
- You might start with an weight on each side.
- Include all-fours kickbacks to loosen your hips. Get down on the floor on all-fours. Balance your weight on your hands and 1 leg. Then, kick back your other leg, keeping your knee bent. Bring your heel as close to your butt as possible. Hold for 5-10 seconds, then slowly lower your leg back to the floor. Switch to the other leg to work that side of your hips.[11]
- Alternate legs for a total of 10-15 kickbacks on each side and do 2-3 sets.
- Perform side leg swings to help open up your hips. Stand up straight with your legs hip-width apart. Hold onto a chair to help you maintain your balance. Then, lift 1 leg and swing it out and away from your body. Raise your leg to the side as high as it will go. Hold for 2-3 seconds, then lower your leg back down to the floor.[12]
- Do 10-15 leg swings on that side, then switch sides and repeat on the other side. Perform 2-3 sets of the exercise to help you get results.
- Do hip mobility drills by repeating these exercises for 15-30 minutes. While you can use any of these exercises to improve your hip mobility, doing all of them in hip mobility drills will help you get better results. Set a timer for 15-30 minutes so you get a full workout. Then, do 2-3 sets of each exercise to complete a drill. Rest 1-2 minutes between sets to reduce your risk of injury.[13]
[Edit]Protecting Your Hips During Exercise - Check with your doctor before you start hip mobility exercises. Your doctor can make sure you're healthy enough for exercise. Additionally, they'll give you advice on how you can improve your hip mobility without accidentally injuring yourself. See your doctor to discuss your goal of improving your hip mobility.[14]
- Ask your doctor if the exercises you want to do are right for you.
- Tell your doctor about your current exercise routine.
- Avoid doing any hip mobility exercises if you've had a hip replacement unless your orthopedic doctor approves it. Some hip exercises aren't safe if you've had a hip replacement. An orthopedic doctor or physical therapist can show you how to exercise safely.
- Go to physical therapy to learn the exercises if you're in recovery. You may be doing hip exercises to help you recover from an injury or medical procedure. If this is the case, it's best to see a physical therapist who can show you how to safely do the exercises. Otherwise, you may accidentally hurt yourself.[15]
- It typically takes at least 2 visits with your physical therapist to learn the proper form for hip mobility exercises. However, your medical team may recommend you attend more sessions.
- Your physical therapy appointments may be covered by insurance, so check your benefits.
- Warm up with 10-15 minutes of cardio before doing hip exercises. Doing your exercises when your muscles are cold increases your risk of injuring yourself. Before you do your hip mobility exercises, do 10-15 minutes of moderate cardio activity. This warms up your body and prepares you to work out.[16]
- For instance, go for a brisk walk, jog in place, do jumping jacks, dance, or do low-impact cardio exercises.
- Do a hip workout 2-3 times a week to help improve your hip mobility. While you want to work your hips often, it's important to not push your body too hard. Rest or do a cardio workout in between your hip workouts. This will help you slowly improve your hip mobility over time.[17]
- For instance, you might do your hip workout on Monday, Wednesday, and Friday.
[Edit]Warnings - Doing exercises incorrectly can injure your hips. It's best to check with your doctor before you start exercising.
[Edit]References |
| How to Light Artwork on a Wall Posted: 17 Feb 2020 12:00 AM PST When it comes to wall art, lighting can make all the difference! Choosing an appropriate lighting fixture can give your wall art the perfect spotlight it needs to stand out. The type of bulb and the temperature of its light will also make a difference—bright, white lights can add a more modern, gallery-like aesthetic to your home while warmer, more yellow lights can provide a cozy, intimate feel. How you display the artwork on the wall can complement and elevate your design scheme while ensuring the artwork's colors stay vivid over time. [Edit]Choosing a Light Fixture - Install track lighting for flexibility and a modern, industrial look. Track lights can slide along the installation beam, which is useful if you regularly change your art display or decide to move your art pieces around on the same wall. You'll need to consider the height of your ceiling before you install the track lighting to ensure the light hits the artwork at a 30-degree angle.[1]
- If your ceilings are high, install the track away from the wall where the art is hanging.
- For a ceiling high, the track should be away from the wall.
- For a ceiling high, place the track away from the wall.
- Use a wall washer with multiple bulbs to evenly illuminate a large piece. A wall washer is a long strip of several small lights in a single unit. Washers are great for lighting wall art because each bulb ensures even light is projected onto the piece. You can either mount them from the ceiling near where it meets the wall or from the wall itself about to above the top of the artwork.[2]
- Wall washers mounted from the ceiling directly above the artwork are ideal for lighting artwork with lots of texture.
- If you want to use recessed washers in the ceiling, take the height into count. For example, if you have ceilings, mount the washing fixture to away from the wall so the light hits the artwork at a 30-degree angle.
- Mount a picture light on top of art frames for an intimate viewing experience. Picture lights can be more inviting and cozy, which is ideal for a small den or family room. They typically use low-wattage lamps that will invite you to stand closer to the piece to look at it. A picture light won't work if the art doesn't have a sturdy frame that you can attach it to.[3]
- If you're a renter, this is a great option because it doesn't require cutting or drilling holes in the ceiling.
- Note that some picture lamps have cords, so you'll need an outlet nearby. Other types require batteries (typically AAA-size) that you'll need to replace as necessary.
- The shade size of the picture-light lamp should be at least 1/2 the width of the artwork (e.g., do not use a picture lamp that's less than long for a painting that's wide.[4]
[Edit]Selecting the Bulb Type and Temperature - Mimic a professional gallery with bright, white halogen lights. Most art galleries and museums use halogen lights because of their high color rendering index (CRI), which is a number that determines how correctly a light brings out the true color of an object. Halogen lights typically score the highest with a CRI of 95 to 100.[5]
- One downside to halogen bulbs is that they get extremely hot, so it's important to keep them away from flammable materials and the painting itself.
- Halogen bulbs have an average lifespan of 2,000 hours, so you'll need to replace them more often depending on how long you leave them on each day.
- Halogen bulbs are a great choice if you plan to install track lighting because it will be far enough from the painting to provide a spotlight and not so close that the heat might damage the painting.
- Use LED bulbs to showcase oil paintings while using less energy. Many galleries use LED bulbs because they emit a diffused, more uniform light that won't cause uneven streaks and highlights on oil paintings. They're the most energy-efficient bulb and last 10,000 to 25,000 hours (the longest lifespan of any type of bulb).[6]
- LED lights come in a variety of temperatures from warm white light to cool white and daylight.
- Consider using a dimmable LED bulb if you like the flexibility of highlighting or lowlighting your artwork.
- Choose an incandescent bulb for a warm, yellow light. Incandescent bulbs will highlight the red, yellow, gold, and orange tones in an art piece, which can also create a flattering contrast for blues and greens. They're perfect for accenting artwork in a cozy bedroom, den, or dining room.[7]
- Incandescent bulbs typically come in 60, 70, or 100-watt varieties, so choose a wattage that's higher than the other bulbs in the room to make the art piece pop.
- A disadvantage is that incandescent bulbs aren't considered environmentally friendly—they produce a lot of heat (decreasing their already-short lifespan of 750 to 1,000 hours) and emit carbon dioxide.
- Flatter cool-toned artwork with compact fluorescent light (CFL) bulbs. CFL bulbs are the more energy-efficient version of traditional fluorescent and incandescent lights—a 23-watt CFL bulb will emit the same amount of light as a 100-watt incandescent bulb. The light tends to be on the cooler side, which is perfect if you have paintings with a lot of cool colors like green, blue, and purple.[8]
- While they can be more expensive than regular fluorescent bulbs, they'll last about 9,000 hours.
- CFL bulbs also come in low color temperature ranges that emit warmer, yellowish light that flatters paintings with warm colors (red, orange, and yellow hues).
- A disadvantage of CFL bulbs is that they have a relatively low CRI compared to other bulbs (50 to 90), meaning it won't render the colors as true as they're meant to be.
- Note that CFL bulbs emit a small number of UV rays, so it's best to only use CFL bulbs with art that's framed with UV-filtering plexiglass.
- Pick a color temperature that complements the colors of the artwork. The color temperature of the bulb is reported in Kelvins. Look at the painting and assess whether you want to highlight the warm or cool tones (that is, red, yellow, and orange hues versus gree, blue, and purple tones). Look at the bulb's package to determine it's Kelvin value.[9]
- A low range (2700 to 3000K) emit a warmer light much like incandescent bulbs and will enhance red and yellow tones. Cool colors might look a little dull under this type of light.
- Higher values (3500 to 6500K) give off a brighter, white light that will bring out blues and greens in the artwork. At a very high level, reds, yellows, and oranges might look slightly distorted.
[Edit]Displaying Artwork - Place the artwork on a wall that isn't exposed to sunlight. Sunlight can cause colors to dull over time, so hang your artwork on an interior wall that doesn't get any sunlight throughout the day. If this isn't an option, use curtains to protect your artwork from the strong morning and afternoon light.[10]
- Another option is to frame the artwork with UV-filtering acrylic plexiglass instead of regular glass.
- For unframed paintings, purchase UV-protecting varnish from any art supply store and spray it onto the painting.
- Adjust the light so it hits the art at a 30-degree angle. Whether you're using recessed pendants or surface-mounted lights, the light should hit the artwork at a 30-degree angle. Increase the angle to 35 degrees to highlight any textural aspects of the art—just don't go over a 45-degree angle because it will cause a distracting glare either from the frame's glass or the from the artwork's varnish.[11]
- Lighting a piece from a 10-degree angle is too close and may end up casting shadows onto the art.
- If you're using a picture light, choose one that sticks out a little from the painting so it's not being lit from directly overhead. However, feel free to break the 30-degree rule if you like the look of direct overhead lighting on a particular piece of art.
- Hang artwork at eye level or from the center to the floor. Galleries and museums abide by this rule because it's the most comfortable viewing angle for most people. Use a tape measure and pencil to mark a spot from the floor. Hold the painting up to the wall to determine where exactly you need to hang it so that point meets the center of the painting.[12]
- Note that you will not be putting the nail into the center marking—you'll need to make a hole higher on the wall depending on the length of the wire hanger.
- If you're hanging artwork over a couch, the bottom of the painting should be to above the back of the couch.
- However, feel free to break this rule as you like by leaning a tall painting against the wall, hanging a small painting over a doorway, or hanging it higher to create the illusion of tall ceilings.[13]
- If you have different types of bulbs, screw each one into a lamp and point them at the painting to see which type you like best.
[Edit]Warnings - If you want to install track lights, wall washers, or recessed lights, it's best to hire an electrician to install it for you.
[Edit]References |
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