How to Print on Balloons Posted: 06 May 2019 05:00 PM PDT Balloons are a classic way to decorate for parties or other festive events. For a more personal touch, you can print custom words or images on the balloons. Transfer your design onto a Mylar balloon with tattoo paper, or onto a latex balloon using rubber stamps and quick-drying ink. For professional-looking custom balloons, create vinyl designs with a Cricut machine that can be applied to both Mylar and latex balloons. EditStamping the Balloons - Inflate your balloon so it is ¾ full of air. Using your mouth or a pump, blow up the balloon until it's three-fourths of the way full. Hold the neck of the balloon tightly between your thumb and forefinger to keep the air from escaping.[1]
- Make sure the balloon that you plan to stamp is at least long. Small balloons are difficult to stamp.
- This method only works with latex balloons.
- Ink a small rubber stamp with quick-drying ink. Double-check that the stamp has been fully inked or some of the design will not be visible. For the best results, select stamps that are no longer than . Whether your design contains images or words, make sure the lines are bold and thick.[2]
- Select a color of ink that contrasts with the color of your balloon.
- You can buy pre-made rubber stamps at a craft store. Or, you can order a personalized stamp that relates to the event you're celebrating.
- Press the stamp gently on the balloon in your desired position. Determine where you want the design to appear on the balloon, then gently press the fully-inked stamp on that section of the balloon. Rock the stamp back and forth slightly to make sure all areas of the stamp have come in contact with the latex.[3]
- You can repeat this process with additional stamps if your design involves multiple words or images.
- Wait for the stamp (or stamps) to dry, then deflate the balloon. Let the balloon sit for up to 2 minutes to allow the stamp ink to dry completely. Then, release your fingers from the neck of the balloon so it deflates. Set it gently aside with the inked design facing up.[4]
- You can touch the ink lightly with your finger to test if it's still wet.
- Repeat this process with any remaining balloons.
- Inflate the balloon with helium and tie on a string. Using a helium tank, fill up your stamped balloon with helium. Tie the neck of the balloon in a knot with your fingers, then tie on a ribbon so it's easier to display.[5]
- You can also re-inflate the balloon with air, using a pump or your mouth, but it will not float.
EditApplying Tattoo Paper - Create a design using a word processing or design software, then flip it. Using a program like Microsoft Word or Photoshop, design your custom balloon. Incorporate words, images, or a combination of both. Once you've finalized your design, flip it along its vertical axis.[6]
- If you're using design software, you can flip the design within the program. Many inkjet printers also have the capability to print mirror images of a document, which you can select under "Properties" in the Print dialog box.[7]
- Since you'll be printing this design using an inkjet printer, you can use multiple colors for your words or images. However, consider the color of your balloons when selecting colors for the design—black words will not show up well on a dark blue or black balloon, for example.
- Print your design on tattoo paper. Tattoo paper can be bought online or at your local craft store and consists of a sheet of wax transfer paper and a clear top sheet. Print your mirrored design onto the transfer paper using an inkjet printer. Make sure to read the instructions included with the tattoo paper you've purchased, since they vary slightly between brands.[8]
- Tattoo paper is generally used to create your own temporary tattoos, but in this case, you will be transferring your design onto a balloon rather than someone's skin.
- You can print multiple designs onto a single sheet of tattoo paper, then cut them apart to decorate several different balloons.
- Attach the clear, sticky top sheet to the printed transfer paper. Once you've printed out your design onto the waxy transfer paper, apply the clear sheet on top. Make sure the edges of both sheets align when you press them together.[9]
- Make sure there are no air bubbles between the two sheets. Smooth them with your hands to get rid of bubbles.
- Cut out your design with a pair of scissors. Stay close to the edge of your design while you cut. If you've printed out several designs on the same sheet, cut them apart.[10]
- Remove the top sheet and place the tattoo ink-side down on the balloon. Gently pull the clear top sheet off your tattoo, starting with one corner and working your way across the entire design. Holding the tattoo paper along its edges, place it in the center of the balloon. Make sure the ink side is facing down.[11]
- Use a Mylar balloon. It should not be inflated at this point in the process.
- Blot the tattoo paper with a damp sponge or paper towel. Get a sponge or paper towel wet, then wring it out so it's no longer dripping. Press the damp sponge against the back of the tattoo paper several times.[12]
- Make sure the entire piece of tattoo paper is damp. You may have to add a bit more water to your sponge or paper towel if you are applying a large design.
- Peel away the tattoo paper after 15 seconds. Once the entire piece of paper is damp, let it sit for 10 to 15 seconds so the ink can adhere fully to the balloon. Then, starting from one corner, slowly peel back the paper until it's fully removed.[13]
- Your design should now be printed on the balloon. The transfer process will flip the words or images back to their correct orientation.
- Allow the design to dry fully, then inflate the balloon. Let the balloon sit for a minute or two until the ink has completely dried. Then, using your mouth or a pump, fill up the balloon with air or helium.[14]
- If you'd prefer a double-sided balloon, you can flip the balloon over after the first design has dried and repeat the process on the back.
EditUsing a Cricut - Buy a Cricut to print the design for your balloons. Cricuts are available for purchase online or at most craft stores. A Cricut is a die-cutting machine, and it operates a lot like a printer—you create a design on your computer and then send it to the machine. But, rather than printing your design with ink, the Cricut cuts it out of the material that you've inserted into the machine (anything from fabric to vinyl to craft foam).[15]
- There are two types of Cricut machines: the more expensive Cricut Maker, which features additional blade types, and the Cricut Explore. Both will work for cutting vinyl designs to transfer onto balloons.[16]
- Create your balloon design digitally. The design can include words, images, or a combination of both. Use Cricut Design Space, a free design software, to create your custom balloon design. Or, use a separate image editing software like Adobe Photoshop or PicMonkey to craft the design. Then, upload it to the Cricut Design Space.[17]
- If you've created the design in a separate program, you will need to save it as a PNG file in order to upload it to the Cricut Design Space.
- Since the design will be printed using a single color of vinyl, simple graphics and line drawings work best if you plan to include images.
- Inflate the balloon and measure the space you plan to decorate. Blow up one of the balloons using your mouth, a pump, or a helium tank. Determine where you want your design to appear on the balloon and how big you want it to be. Mark this distance with a washable marker. Then, using a flexible measuring tape laid flat against the balloon, measure the width of that marked area.[18]
- Wipe off the marks with a damp finger one you've finished measuring.
- Printed vinyl designs can be applied to both latex and Mylar balloons.
- Adjust your digital design to fit the balloon. Change the sizing of the design in Cricut Design Space so it will fit the area you just measured. If you plan to print multiple designs in the same color, see if you can fit them both on the same page without overlap.[19]
- Set the Cricut to its vinyl settings. On the Cricut Design Space, click the green "Make It" button in the top right corner and then select the type of vinyl you plan to use. Make sure the dial on the Cricut machine is also set to vinyl.[20]
- Vinyl options include holographic vinyl, glitter vinyl, and metallic vinyl.
- Cut a piece of vinyl and place it on the Cricut mat. The piece of vinyl should match the size of your file on Cricut Design Space. Position the vinyl so its paper liner side is facing the mat. Use your hands to smooth the piece of vinyl flat across the mat so it sticks.[21]
- Scrape out any air bubbles with a card.
- If you're using high-shine vinyl, use a non-stick roller to smooth it out instead. A scraper could damage the vinyl.[22]
- Load the mat into your Cricut and press go. The machine will translate your design onto the vinyl using a series of small, precise blades. The Cricut is designed to cut only the vinyl, not the paper liner.
- Remove the excess vinyl from the sheet. Once the Cricut has finished cutting the design, take the piece of vinyl out of the machine. Start by gently pulling up one corner of the vinyl sheet and work your way across to completely remove the excess vinyl. Don't forget to pull off the smaller pieces of vinyl that remain inside or around your design.[23]
- This process is called "weeding."
- Although you can do the entire process by hand, a metal weeding hook makes it easier to work with precision when removing the small pieces of vinyl inside letters or images.
- Cut a piece of transfer paper and apply it to the vinyl design. Measure the transfer paper so it will completely cover the vinyl design. Peel the sticky transfer paper off its paper backing and lay it across the vinyl design, pressing down to make sure it's attached.[24]
- Smooth out any air bubbles with a plastic card.
- If you're working with a large design, consider cutting the design into several sections that can be applied separately.
- Peel the transfer paper off the paper liner, taking the vinyl design with it. The sticky side of the transfer paper attaches to the vinyl design, allowing it to be pulled off its paper backing. You will end up with something resembling a large sticker.
- Position the vinyl on the balloon and press gently on the transfer paper. Start by pressing in the middle of the design with your fingers. Do this gently, or you will pop the balloon. Let the rest of the transfer tape fall naturally against the balloon, and continue to work your way outwards, pressing gently.[25]
- Once you've pressed it down with your fingers, you can go back in with a scraper and gently smooth out the transfer paper to make sure the design has completely adhered to the balloon.
- Gently peel back the transfer paper, leaving the vinyl design on the balloon. Start at one corner and peel the transfer paper back carefully to keep from shifting the vinyl. Once you've completely removed the transfer paper, go in with one finger and press down slightly on each piece of the design to make sure it's completely attached.[26]
- If you cut your vinyl into multiple sections, you can repeat the transfer process with each section until the design is fully applied to the balloon.
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How to Tape Handlebars Posted: 06 May 2019 09:00 AM PDT The original tape on your bicycle handlebars will wear out with time and use. However, replacing the tape is a quick and easy project. You will just need to remove the old tape and any residue, wrap the tape neatly around the handlebars, and finish off the ends cleanly. Replacing the tape on your handlebars will allow you to maintain a firm grip on the bars, and it will keep your handlebars looking great. EditCleaning Off the Handlebars - Flip back the brake lever hoods. Most handlebars that are taped have flexible covers that fold over the connection between the brake handles and the handlebar. Flip the end of these hoods back over themselves, towards the brake handle. The goal is to get the end off the bars so that the wrapping can go under them.[1]
- The brake hood lies on top of the brake lever and provides a comfortable grip.
- Remove the old tape. Using your fingers, start peeling off the existing tape starting at the center of the bars. There may be a piece of electrical tape holding the end in place, but this can be peeled off just like the bar tape can.[2]
- If the old tape disintegrates or breaks apart, try using isopropyl alcohol to remove any adhesive without causing any damage.
- Do not cut off the tape. You may scratch the metal on the bars or nick your cables if you use a razor blade or scissors to remove it.[3]
- Pull out the bar plugs. There should be plugs in both ends of the handlebars that are holding some of the bar tape inside the end of the bars. These can typically be wiggled and pulled out with your fingers.[4]
- However, if they are inside the bars securely, when you have peeled off the old tape, pulling the end out will loosen the plugs.
- Clean the handlebars and let them dry completely. Remove any dirt and glue left behind on the bars by scrubbing them with a rag and de-greasing cleaner or soap. If everything doesn't come off easily, you can go over the bars with rubbing alcohol to clean any stubborn spots.
- Allow the handlebars to dry completely before rewrapping the handlebars.
- Adjust the brake levers. Brake levers are located at the front of the curved part of the handlebars. They are depressed to bring the bicycle to a stop. To adjust them, unscrew the screw on the brake lever to be able to move it. Once unscrewed, move it up, down, or to the side of the handlebar if needed. Screw it back tightly into place once adjusted.[5]
- The bottom of each handlebar on one side should be level with the bottom of each corresponding lever. Each brake lever should also be level with the side of its corresponding bar. Hold a ruler along the bottom to check if it's level or not.
- Having the brake levers in the correct position will help ensure that the handlebar tape can be wrapped around them and will not be disturbed by repositioning the levers. Set a level across the hoods to make sure they're in an even position.
- Wash your hands. Clean your hands with soap and water if any debris from the old wrap has gotten on them. This is especially important if you are applying white or light-colored tape.[6]
- You may wear gloves to keep from getting the tape dirty.
EditApplying the Tape - Tape down the cables. Secure any cables that run along the handlebars with electrical tape. Some bikes feature cables that run along the handlebars to the brake pads. This cable system allows you to brake the bike with your hands instead of using the pedals to come to a stop.[7]
- To cut the tape, have a pair of sharp scissors nearby.
- Tape the brake lever. Detach the two short pieces of tape that typically come with a new roll of handlebar tape. Place each one of the strips over the back of each brake lever. Ring the tape up around the brake lever so that the inside of the curve of the handlebar is covered.[8]
- Placing a piece of tape in this spot ahead of time will ensure that there is no gap in the tape as you wrap it.
- Start your tape hanging over the end of the handlebar. Attach the beginning of the roll of tape to the bottom end of the handlebar so that half of its width is hanging off the end. This extra tape at the end of the bar will be secured later.
- The end of the tape should still be stuck to the handlebar, as the adhesive on the tape is in the center.
- Wrap the tape around the handlebar with overlapping layers. Overlap each pass by about a third as you continue taping. Make sure all spots are taped. Move up the curve and along the flat part of the bar towards the center of the handlebars.[9]
- Wrap in a counter-clockwise direction on the right handle and a clockwise direction on the left handle.
- Alternate wrapping from the inside to the outside to create a "figure-8" pattern so you don't need to use an extra piece of tape on the brake lever.[10]
- Keep the tape tight as you wrap. Do not pull so hard that you wrinkle the tape or tear it but don't let it be loose.
- As you wrap up around the brake lever, make sure the extra piece of tape you added stays flat.
- Secure the end of the wrapping with electrical tape. Wrap electrical tape around the end of the bike tape and the bar in order to secure it. Keep some tension on the electrical tape as you wrap it around the end of the handlebar tape. This will ensure that the electrical tape sticks to the bar.[11]
- Try to use an electrical tape that is the same color as the handlebar tape. This will help it blend it.
- Insert the bar plug. Place the remaining tape at the end of the curved part of the handlebar into the hole at the end of the bar. Insert the bar plug into the hole at the end of the bar.[12]
- You may need to use quite a bit of pressure to get the plug in the end of the handlebars. If pressing with the heel of your hand doesn't work, use a soft mallet to get it in.
- Flip down the brake lever hoods and inspect your work. Make sure that all ends are secure. Also look over the whole surface to make sure that each wrap is overlapped and there are no areas of the handlebars visible between the wraps.[13]
- The handlebars are now taped and you are ready to ride!
- You can purchase handlebar tape at any bicycle shop or from online retailers.
EditThings You'll Need - Handlebar tape
- Electrical tape
- Scissors
- Rubbing alcohol
- A piece of cloth
- Soap and water
- Gloves (optional)
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How to Make a Mosaic Stained Glass Window Posted: 06 May 2019 01:00 AM PDT Mosaic stained glass windows are fun to create and make beautiful decorations. Cut out pieces of coloured glass with a glass cutter and stick them to a pane of glass with clear glue. Then, press grout into the cracks between the mosaic glass pieces to make them stand out and seal everything when you're done. Display your finished mosaic stained glass window in your home or gift it to a loved one. EditChoosing, Cutting and Attaching the Glass - Choose a clear, clean window pane. This pane will be the front of the mosaic that you will stick your pieces of glass onto. Any sized piece of glass will work for this activity; however, a smaller piece will be a lot quicker to complete. Pick a piece of glass that doesn't have any scratches or marks, as these will distract from your mosaic.[1]
- Consider using an old window pane from home. Alternatively, purchase a pane of glass from a hardware store.
- If you want to display your window as a stand-alone piece, consider choosing a window pane that has a wooden frame, as this makes it easier to move around.
- Use a glass cutter to cut panes of glass into your desired shapes. Choose pieces of coloured glass that are the same thickness, as this makes the back of your mosaic nice and smooth. Place your panes of glass onto a cutting board and then cut out your desired shapes with the glass cutter. Use the glass cutter in the same way that you would use a craft knife. Hold the glass firmly in position with 1 hand and use your other hand to press the blade of the knife along the glass to cut it.[2]
- Purchase different coloured panes of glass from a craft store or from a hardware store.
- If you want a random mosaic, simply hit the glass with a hammer to break it into unique pieces.
- If you find it easier, draw your mosaic on a piece of paper and then use this as a guide to cut out each piece.
- Position the cut glass onto the window pane in your desired pattern. Place the pieces of glass onto the pane. It is best to wear gloves when doing this to prevent the glass from cutting you. If you have drawn your design, place this under the glass and then lay the piece on top. Alternatively, simply move the glass around to create a pattern, an image, or a random mosaic. If necessary, cut out extra pieces of glass to add to your mosaic.[3]
- Fill the entire pane of glass with pieces of mosaic or simply place a few pieces of mosaic onto the glass to make an image or a pattern. A little blank space between each piece can look effective as it helps to create contrast between the pieces.
- Arrange the different coloured glass in a pattern or a colour scale. For example, use a series of different shades of purple to create a calming colour scale. Alternatively, opt for clashing colours, such as blue and red, to create a striking look.
- Spread a thin layer of clear glue onto each piece and stick it to the glass. Pick up each piece of glass and paint a thin layer of glue over the bottom side. Then, press it down onto the glass. Don't worry if the glue squishes around the sides of the glass, as the glue will turn clear when it dries.[4]
- Choose a glue that dries clear, as this won't obstruct the view of the mosaic. Both PVA and waterbased glue will work for this project.
- Leave the glue to dry for 4 hours. This gives time for the glue to set and turn clear. Leave the mosaic stained glass window in a dry and dust-free area to ensure that the glue dries properly.[5]
- If the glue feels tacky, leave it dry for another few hours or until it feels dry to touch.
EditApply Grout and Sealer to the Window - Mix 1 cup (1 handful) of grout with of water. Choose your favourite coloured grout and place about 1 cup (1 handful) into a bowl. Then, mix in of water. Continue to mix the grout mixture until it reaches a paste consistency. If necessary, add a little more water to achieve a thick paste texture.[6]
- Wear gloves when mixing and touching the grout to avoid it staining your hands.
- Any type of grout works for this project. White, grey, and charcoal are popular grout colours, as they create contrast with the colours in the mosaic.
- Purchase grout from a hardware store.
- Use a sponge to apply a thin layer of grout over your mosaic. Scoop up a little grout with your sponge and rub it over your mosaic using a circular motion. Use the the sponge to push the grout into the cracks between the pieces of glass to fill the blank space. Continue to pick up the grout with the sponge and wipe it over the mosaic until all the cracks between the mosaic pieces are filled with grout.[7]
- Look at the front of the mosaic (through the glass pane) to check that all the gaps are covered in grout.
- Wait for the grout to dry for 4 hours. This gives time for the grout to harden and attach to the glass. Avoid moving the mosaic while the grout is drying, as this can cause it to crack. Leave the grout to dry for 4 hours, or as directed on the grout package.[8]
- Keep the grout away from pets and children, as it contains chemicals that can be dangerous if they are consumed.
- Remove the sandy residue with a lightly damp sponge. Spray a light coating of water over a clean sponge to dampen it. Then, gently wipe the excess grout off the mosaic pieces using a circular wiping motion. Avoid wetting the sponge too much, as this can damage the grout.[9]
- Paint a sealer over the glass to keep the grout in place. Dip a art paintbrush into grout sealer and brush it over the mosaic pieces and the grout. This helps to stop the grout from coming loose and falling out over time. Brush a thin coat of sealer over the entire mosaic using up and down strokes. Make sure to cover the corners, cracks, and glass with the sealer to increase the life-span of your artwork.[10]
- Any type of grout sealer can be used for this task. Purchase grout sealer in the tile section of a hardware store.
- Leave the sealer to dry for 4 hours.
- Face the smooth side of the glass pane outward to display your mosaic stained glass window.
EditThings You'll Need - Glass pane
- Coloured glass
- Cutting board
- Glass cutter
- Grout
- Sponge
- Water
- Sealer
- Paintbrush
- Gloves
- Clear glue
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