| How to Breed Bearded Dragons Posted: 23 May 2016 05:00 PM PDT Bearded dragons have an easy-going personality, are a reasonable size, and have an attractive appearance, all of which make them very popular to keep as pets.[1] Bearded dragons that are kept as pets can be bred year-round, so you can breed your dragons at any point during the year. Ensuring a successful breeding will take a lot of time and preparation, so make sure that you have a full understanding of the entire process before breeding your dragons. EditPreparing to Breed Your Bearded Dragons - Determine the sex of your bearded dragons. There are several physical characteristics that will help you tell your male and female dragons apart. The male bearded dragon's head is larger than that of a female. In addition, his abdominal girth will be smaller and he will have larger pores in his anal region.[2]
- Another way to determine the sex is to look at the hemipenile bulges. To do this, hold your bearded dragon on his back in your hand and gently bend his tail toward his back at a 90-degree angle; be careful not to damage the vertebrae in his tail when you bend it. Two hemipenile bulges on either side of the tail indicate a male; one centered bulge or no bulge at all indicates a female.[3]
- Take your bearded dragons to your veterinarian. It is essential that your bearded dragons are in optimal condition prior to breeding. Your veterinarian can give them a thorough physical exam and let you know if they are in good health or are in need of treatment. He or she can also test your dragons for atadenovirus, which is very contagious among dragons and can cause serious disease.[4]
- Bearded dragons should not be bred if they test positive for atadenovirus, since it can be passed from mother to baby.[5]
- Keep in mind that a bearded dragon that has the virus may not be shedding it at the time of the test, leading to a false negative result. For this reason, it would be good to have your dragons tested repeatedly before breeding.[6]
- Have your veterinarian check your bearded dragons' ages, lengths, and weights. For optimal breeding, the male should be at least 18 months old and the female should be at least 24 months old.[7] They should both be at least 18 inches in length from snout to tail. [8] The female should weigh at least 350 grams.[9]
- Supplement your female bearded dragon's diet. Your female will need a daily supplement that contains calcium and vitamin D. This will help ensure that her eggs will be adequately calcified and that she will not suffer from a calcium deficiency after laying her eggs. She will also need a general multivitamin.[10]
- Your female should receive this supplementation at least several weeks before breeding.[11] Talk with your veterinarian if you have questions on how to incorporate these supplements into your female bearded dragon's diet.
- Prepare the breeding habitat. Although your female and male bearded dragons will only temporarily live together in the same enclosure, it is important that the enclosure is set up for an optimal breeding situation. First, the enclosure should be large enough to comfortably house two adult bearded dragons; your local pet store can help you determine the exact enclosure size that you will need.[12]
 - Glass aquariums are very popular enclosures for bearded dragons, but other types are also available, including melamine cages and PVC cages. Using a screen lid cover will keep your bearded dragons from escaping and will allow for fresh air circulation.[13]
- Use a thermometer to maintain the overall temperature at 77 to 88 degrees Farenheit during the day and the mid 70's at night.[14]
- Place a basking light (available at your local pet store) outside of the cage to provide a focal basking spot in the cage at a temperature of 105 degrees Farenheit.[15][16]
- Position full-spectrum light bulbs (UVA and UVB) above the enclosure, about one foot from where your dragons will likely spend most of their time. The UVA and UVB rays from the bulbs will help keep your bearded dragons healthy by helping them produce vitamin D.[17][18]
- Places branches and rocks in the enclosure. The branches will give your bearded dragons something to climb on, and the rocks will give your dragons opportunities to rest and hide from each other.[19]
- Prepare the lay box. The lay box is where your female dragon will lay her eggs. The lay box should be an eight to ten-gallon plastic container with a secure lid that allows for air circulation. Fill the box with about eight inches of either topsoil or potting soil, along with sand.[20]
- The soil mixture should be damp enough so that it lightly clumps together and is easy to dig in. The soil should not be so dry that it would cave in when she tries to bury her eggs.[21][22]
- Purchase an incubator. The eggs will need to be removed from the lay box and incubated. It would be best to purchase a pre-made incubator at your local pet store to reduce the likelihood of malfunction. The Hovabator is a commonly used incubator for bearded dragon eggs.[23]
- Fill small containers with either vermiculite or perlite (available at your local gardening store) and place them in the incubator. Press your thumb in each container to make a depression where the egg will go, and cover the container with a lid that allows for air circulation.[24]
- Prepare your bearded dragons for brumation. Brumation is the process of decreasing the temperature and photoperiod (lighting schedule) for your bearded dragons. When the male and female are in their separate cages, decrease the temperature to 80 degrees Farenheit during the day and 60 degrees Farenheit at night. Decrease their exposure to light: 10 hours of light and 14 hours of darkness.[25]
- You will probably notice that your dragons will eat less and hide more during brumation. They probably will not bask as much either. After brumation, they will want resume their usual diet.[26]
- Brumation should last at least two to three months before breeding.[27]
EditBreeding Your Bearded Dragons - Place your bearded dragons in the breeding enclosure. Your dragons probably will not mate right away, and will need some time to adjust to their new surroundings. Making this enclosure ready for them beforehand will get them more comfortable. When the male is ready to breed, his beard will darken to black.[28]
- Observe the courtship behavior. Your bearded dragons will exhibit courtship behaviors before the actual mating. Both your male and female will start bobbing their heads; the female may also start waving one of her arms to indicate her receptiveness to be bred. Your male may also stomp his feet and chase your female around the enclosure.[29][30]
- Your bearded dragons may also twitch their tails as a courtship behavior.[31]
- Observe the mating behavior. To mate, your male will quickly climb on the back of your female and bite her neck; biting her neck keeps her from running off before the mating process is complete.[32] Your male will then press his cloacal region against that of your female.[33] The entire mating process only take a few minutes.
- Return your bearded dragons to their separate cages after one week. It is recommended to leave your dragons together for about a week after mating. After this one week, place them in their separate cages for one week. Put them together for another week for another mating session. You may need to do this several times to ensure a successful mating.[34]
- Continue to feed your female her supplements after the mating. Increasing her exercise and keeping her well hydrated after mating will help her be better prepared to lay her eggs.[35]
EditLetting Your Female Dragon Lay Her Eggs - Observe her in her separate cage. Your female will demonstrate behavior that shows that she is ready to lay her eggs. She may start pacing her cage and looking a little anxious. She will also eat less and frantically dig in her cage.[36] When she is exhibiting this behavior, gently move her to the lay box so that she can lay her eggs.
- You will also be able to easily see that her belly is full of eggs. You will be able to see the outlines of the eggs, which will look like small marbles.[37]
- Egg laying typically occurs about four to six weeks after mating.[38]
- Allow your female dragon to lay her eggs in the lay box. You will see her digging in the enclosure to create an area to lay her eggs. It may not be easy to tell when she has laid her eggs, especially if you didn't see her do it. If this is the case, you will know that she has laid eggs when you see that her belly looks more deflated and flat.[39] Remove her from the lay box after she has laid her eggs.
- If you do not think that your female has laid all of her eggs, take her to your veterinarian immediately.[40] She may be suffering from egg binding, which is a serious medical condition that would keep her from laying her eggs.
- Female bearded dragons typically lay their eggs in the afternoon or early evening. You may want to start watching her around this time of day to see if she looks ready to lay her eggs.[41]
- Females usually lay between about 24 eggs at a time, but can also lay as few as15 and as many as 50.[42][43] A group of eggs is called a clutch.
- Remove your female bearded dragon from the lay box. After she has laid her eggs, she should be placed back in her original cage. In general, female bearded dragons are not very maternal. Also, captive female bearded dragons tend not to guard their eggs.[44]
EditIncubating the Eggs - Place the eggs in the incubator. To do this, lift the eggs with your hands or a spoon. It is important to be extremely gentle when you are transferring the freshly laid eggs from the lay box to the incubator. As best you can, keep them in the same orientation as you found them in the lay box. It may be helpful to mark the top of the egg with a pencil to keep you from accidentally turning it upside down when placing it in the incubator.[45]
- Place each egg in an individual container in the incubator. The egg should fit snugly within the thumb depression that you made earlier. Make sure that the egg is not covered with the vermiculite or perlite and place the lid on the container.[46]
- Maintain the incubator temperature at 82 to 86 degrees Farenheit. Use a digital thermometer to monitor the temperature. If the temperature gets too hot within the incubator, the embryos could die inside the eggs.[47] The incubator should be in a room that is cooler than the temperature inside the incubator; a warmer room would increase the incubator's temperature, which puts the embryos at risk.[48]
- The incubator's humidity should be maintained at around 80%. Placing a bowl of water within the incubator will help to maintain the humidity level. Refill the water as needed.[49]
- Check the temperature daily and the humidity about twice a week.[50]
- Monitor the eggs on a regular basis. Pay close attention to see if the eggs look wet or overly dry. Condensation on the eggs can be deadly to the embryos, so it is very important to make sure that the eggs do not have any moisture on them. If they look wet, take the lid off the incubator for 24 hours to release the excess humidity and let the vermiculite or perlite dry.[51]
- If the eggs look dimpled or look like they're about to collapse, they may be too dry. Use room temperature water to dampen the vermiculite, making sure not to make it so damp that the egg gets wet.[52]
- Healthy and fertile eggs will increase to about twice their original size and turn chalk white. Eggs that are yellow, pink, or green may not be fertile.[53]
- Eggs with mold on them may or may not be fertile. Talk with your veterinarian if you are unsure what to do with the moldy eggs.
- The eggs will begin to hatch in about 60 to 70 days.[54]
EditHatching and Caring for the Bearded Dragon Babies - Observe changes in the egg's appearance. Just prior to hatching, the eggs may begin to deflate and develop water droplets. These changes are completely normal and should not be confused with signs that the egg is infertile. You will also see a slit in the eggs exterior, which is caused by a baby bearded dragon's egg tooth on the tip of their snout. The baby will make a slit large enough to fit its snout and head through, and will rest with its head out for about one day.[55]
- Avoid helping the baby bearded dragons emerge from their eggs. Let the babies hatch on their own, which will typically take about 24 to 36 hours. You will probably notice that all of eggs will hatch within a day or two of each other.[56]
- Keep the babies in the incubator for their first 24 hours of life to help them adjust to their new environment.[57]
- Remove any babies that did not survive.
- Group the baby dragons together according to size. Line their enclosure with moist paper towels, which will help keep them hydrated during their first few weeks of life. You can also lightly mist them with water until they begin drinking water on their own. In terms of food, the yolk from their individual eggs will provide them with nutrition for a few days, so you can wait until around day 3 to feed them real food (crickets, chopped greens).[58]
- You will need at least a 20 gallon tank to hold the baby dragons. They will need larger tanks as they grow older.[59]
- Provide the babies with plenty of food so that they do not begin nipping at each other's toes or tails. [60]
- Place the larger and more dominant babies in a separate enclosure so that the smaller ones can eat. [61]
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| How to Decrease Gas Caused by Fiber in Diet Posted: 23 May 2016 09:00 AM PDT There are many benefits associated with maintaining a high-fiber diet. Fiber can help you lower your LDL cholesterol, increase weight loss, and prevent constipation. Fiber also helps you to digest other foods and maintain proper blood sugar levels. All fiber, no matter its source, can cause gas.[1] Since bacteria vary in their ability to digest different types of fiber, different sources of fiber may produce different amounts of gas.[2] Every person's body will respond to fiber differently, so be patient and willing to try different fiber sources and find the one that most benefits you, without causing excessive bloating or gas.[3] EditAdjusting Your Diet - Understand the difference between soluble and insoluble fiber. It's important to understand the two forms of fiber, and which foods contain soluble or insoluble fiber.[4][5]
- Soluble fiber dissolves in water to form a gel-like material, which can lower your cholesterol and blood glucose levels. It also slows down your digestion and is more likely to cause gas. It is found in foods like oat bran, barley, nuts, seeds, beans, lentils, peas, and some fruits and vegetables. Consume more water to help absorb soluble fiber. This is important when taking any fiber supplement as well.
- Insoluble fiber does not dissolve in water. It promotes movement in your digestive tract, so it accelerates your digestion. As a result, it causes you to have less gas than soluble fiber. Insoluble fiber is found in foods such as whole wheat flour, wheat bran, nuts, green beans, and potatoes.
- Substitute soluble fiber heavy foods with insoluble fiber heavy foods. It's important to balance your fiber consumption so you eat both insoluble and soluble fiber sources. This will help you stay healthy and get enough fiber in your diet.[6] But to cut down on gas, try substituting certain soluble fiber foods with insoluble fiber foods.[7]
- For example, oat bran contains mostly soluble fiber, and wheat bran contains more insoluble fiber. So, regular wheat bran cereal or bran muffins may cause less gas than oat bran cereal or oat bran muffins.[8]
- Use dried beans, rather than canned beans, in your meals. Beans are known to be major sources of gas, but dried beans may cause less gas, post meal. Soaking the dried beans overnight before you eat them can lessen the impact of beans on your digestive system. [9]
- Avoid cauliflower, broccoli, and cabbage. These foods are great sources of fiber, but they can cause gas and bloating. If possible, limit your consumption of these foods to once a month, or substitute these foods for other vegetables that are less gas-inducing.[10]
- Leafy green vegetables like spinach, collard greens, and lettuce are mostly packed with insoluble fiber, so they are a good source of nutrients and should cause less gas.
- Avoid raw vegetables, as they are harder for your body to break down and can lead to gas. Steam or cook vegetables before you eat them.[11]
- Add fiber to your diet slowly. The bacteria in your stomach and small intestine need time to catch up with your fiber consumption. Adding too much fiber too quickly can cause gas, bloating, cramps, and diarrhea. Increase your fiber intake about per a day, over a period of 1-2 weeks, to allow your body time to adjust.[12]
- You may experience bloating and gas at the beginning of your fiber intake. But over time, your body will adjust to the fiber and you should see a reduction in bloating and gas.[13]
- Remember to increase fiber with water at the same time. Increase water anytime you add fiber to your diet to prevent constipation.
- Eat 20 to of fiber a day if you are an adult. The recommended fiber intake for older children, adolescents, and adults is no more than 35 grams of fiber a day.[14]
- Younger children will not be able to eat enough calories to achieve this amount of fiber in their daily diet. But you should introduce whole grains, fresh fruits, and leafy greens to your child's diet so they can build up their tolerance for fiber over time.
- Drink water with every meal. Water helps to push the fiber through your digestive system. Staying hydrated also prevents the fiber from hardening and obstructing your intestine. Dehydration and a build up of fiber in your body can lead to some uncomfortable moments in the bathroom.[15]
- You should also stay hydrated if you drink coffee throughout the day. Caffeine is a diuretic that pulls fluids from your body and makes you urinate. This can lead to dehydration. For every 1 cup of caffeinated fluid you consume, you should drink 2 glasses of decaffeinated fluids. Too much caffeine in your body, coupled with a fiber rich diet, can lead to constipation and gas.[16]
EditUsing Professional Products - Use a product like Beano. Beano is an over-the-counter medication that contains a natural enzyme to prevent bloating and gas caused by fiber intake. Beano works to reduce the amount of gas the fiber you eat releases, cutting down on the amount of gas you release after a meal.[17]
- In several studies, Beano has been shown to be effective at alleviating bloating and gas after a fiber heavy meal.[18]
- Talk to your doctor before you take fiber supplements. Daily use of fiber supplements like Metamucil or Konsyl can be a very effective way to maintain a healthy fiber intake. However, the best way to receive fiber is always through food first. You should check with your doctor before you add fiber supplements to your diet, especially if you are taking other medication that could interact with these supplements.[19]
- Start with a small amount of fiber supplements so your body has time to adjust and you do not get too bloated or gassy. Drink plenty of fluids throughout the day.
- Fiber supplements can decrease your body's ability to absorb certain medications, like aspirin, warfarin (Coumadin) and carbamazepine (Carbatrol, Tegretol). These supplements can also reduce your blood sugar levels. Your doctor may need to adjust your medications or your insulin if you have diabetes and want to take fiber supplements.
- See a doctor if you experience severe abdominal pain, diarrhea, or bloody stools. Bouts of excessive bloating, belching, and gas often resolve on their own, or they will lessen as your body adjusts to your fiber intake. But you should talk to your doctor if your symptoms don't improve or you experience severe abdominal pain, diarrhea, bloody stools, unintended weight loss, or chest pain.[20]
- These symptoms could be signs of an underlying digestive condition or intestinal issue.
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| How to Care for Pillbugs Posted: 23 May 2016 01:00 AM PDT Pillbugs are small, round bugs that live in many parts of the country. Due to the fact they're easy to handle, many people enjoy keeping pillbugs as pets. You can find pillbugs outdoors, usually under rocks or in other moist areas. If you want to keep pillbugs in your home, make sure you know how to create and maintain the proper environment and feed the pill bugs the correct diet. EditCreating an Environment - Use a plastic tub or aquarium for housing. As pillbugs require a damp environment to thrive, you should pick a container that's resistant to water. Go with something made of plastic or glass rather than cardboard.
- You can purchase an aquarium at a pet store if you have a lot of pillbugs.[1]
- If you don't want to spend the money on an aquarium, you can use a plastic tupperware container from your kitchen to house your pillbugs.[2]
- Fill the container with grass and dirt. Once you've secured a container, you can begin creating the proper environment for your pillbugs.
- Fill the bottom of the container with one to one and half inches of moist soil or sand. You can purchase sand or soil from a pet store or greenhouse.[3]
- Pillbugs also enjoy wood bark, leaf litter, and other dead vegetation as part of their habitat.[4]
- Make sure the container is well ventilated. Pillbugs need to live in a ventilated container. Make sure you're able to place small holes on the top of the container, but not too big that pillbugs can escape. Many aquariums come with ventilated lids and you can easily poke holes in the top of a tupperware lid.[5]
EditFeeding and Caring for Pillbugs - Feed pillbugs a healthy diet. Pillbugs eat mostly decomposing vegetables in the wild and should have a similar diet in captivity to keep them healthy.
- Pillbugs can safely be fed fish flakes, which you can purchase at a pet store.[6]
- In addition to fish flakes, feed your pillbugs leftover bits of apples, lettuce, potatoes, and carrots. You can also bring leaf litter in from the wild and feed them to your pillbug.[7]
- While you can feed pillbugs food that has been sitting out for a few days, do not often them moldy food. This can make them sick.[8]
- Keep the container humid. Pillbugs require a humid environment to survive.
- Invest in a humidity thermometer to make sure your pillbugs environment is adequately moist. Pillbugs should not live in an environment of less than 75% humidity. They will not survive without proper humidity.[9]
- Mist the container once a day with a spray bottle. Also, make sure to add water to the soil on a daily basis.[10]
- Replace soil periodically. Waste gases emitted by pillbugs can be strong enough to cause health problems, so soil should be replaced periodically. Make sure you remove all the pillbugs before changing the soil. If your pillbugs have reproduced, babies may be difficult to differentiate from soil. If this is the case, put a piece of wood in the container as babies are likely to congregate there.[11]
- Handle pillbugs with care. Most pillbugs can be handled easily, but you should do so with care.
- Gently pick pillbugs up with your thumb and forefingers when you want to handle them. You can also scoop them up with a spoon.[12]
- Make sure not to drop your pillbugs while handling them, as this can cause them pain. They walk fairly fast and can sometimes fall by mistake.[13]
- Never handle pillbugs while they're shedding.[14]
EditMonitoring the Pillbugs - Do not mix different species. Pillbugs might not be well being mixed with different species. Make sure any bugs you add to your tank are also pillbugs.
- Pillbugs have flattened, round bodies, sharply rounded antennas, and seven pairs of legs. When frightened, they roll into a tiny ball.[15]
- Keep mold out of the enclosure. Due to the dampness of a pillbug's environment, you need to make sure their container is mold free. You can do this by periodically switching the soil, as stated, and removing any uneaten food before it becomes moldy.[16]
- Periodically clean containers. As containers can grow moldy due to soil, periodically switch your pillbugs into a new, temporary container. Clean the container with soap and water and rinse thoroughly. Then, re-add soil, leaves, and water and put the pillbugs back inside.[17]
- Pillbugs can reproduce fast, so do not add too many to the container at once.
- Pillbugs do produce a smell and may attract other bugs to your home.
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