| How to Keep Bangs from Getting Oily Posted: 21 Mar 2016 05:00 PM PDT The good news is that oily hair is usually healthier than dry hair, and unlikely to break or get split ends. Of course, oily bangs can't be an annoying, straggly mess. Learn how to stop the buildup of oil to keep your bangs healthy and attractive. - Stop conditioning your bangs. When you wash your hair, shampoo your bangs as usual, but leave the conditioner off them. The main purpose of conditioner is to restore protective oils. If your bangs are already healthy and oily, conditioner just makes them greasy.
- Also avoid putting conditioner on your scalp. Your scalp produces oils, and extra grease there can lead to dandruff.
- Use dry shampoo. If your hair gets oily in between washing, apply dry shampoo to absorb the grease. If using powdered dry shampoo, sprinkle a little onto the oily area, wait 10 minutes, then brush it evenly through your hair. If using a spray, hold it at least 8 inches (20cm) away, spray at the roots, then brush it through your hair. Spray lightly, since the spray can give your hair a weird texture or a greyer color.
- Natural alternatives include corn starch (for light hair), cocoa powder (dark hair), or cinnamon (reddish hair). Note that the last two are scented, and that cinnamon may "burn" a sensitive scalp.
- Many people apply this before they go to bed, so it can soak up oil overnight.
- Wash your bangs in the sink. If only your bangs are oily, wash and shampoo them in the sink without wetting the rest of your hair. This handles the problem without exposing drier parts of your hair to damage from over-washing.
- Reduce your use of styling products. Styling products, especially gels and mousse, are thick and greasy. Even lighter styling products can become oily if left in too long. Try to achieve what you can with a pea-sized amount of the product at a time, and/or keep the product away from your bangs.
- Keep forehead makeup thin. Makeup is oily. The more you wear on your forehead, the more it will rub off onto your bangs.
- Stop touching your bangs. Touching your hair adds a tiny bit of oil from your fingertips. This may seem small, but it adds up over time. If you constantly sweep your bangs back, fasten them with a clip so they stop falling out of place. If you have a habit of twirling your hair or running your hand over your head, learn how to stop.
- Keep your face clean. Wash your face whenever oils build up, so they don't transfer to your bangs. Oil removal wipes are an easy way to do this on the go.
- When you're sweating, remember to wipe off sweat from your forehead and hairline.
- At times when your skin is particularly oily, keep your bangs pinned up or to the side.
- Blow-drying, straightening, and back-combing can all reduce the appearance of oily bangs by forcing them into the desired position. However, these are not direct solutions to your oily hair, and may damage your hair in the long run.
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| How to Grow Sarracenia (North American Pitcher Plants) Posted: 21 Mar 2016 09:00 AM PDT North American pitcher plants are easy to grow once you know what they need. Since they are carnivorous plants, they'll get all the nutrients they need by catching insects. Restrain your urge to coddle them with fertilizer or nutrient-rich soil, and Sarracenia plants will thrive with minimal care. EditGrowing Sarracenia Plants - Prepare the growing medium. Just like most carnivorous plants, Sarracenia grows well in a 50/50 mix of peat moss and coarse sand (use 100% silica sand with no added minerals - this can usually be found at pool supply stores). Perlite is an excellent substitute for sand if you can not find any.
- Peat moss that includes fertilizer can kill your Sarracenia plants, so be very careful which brand you choose! Make sure it doesn't say there is any additives.
- Horticultural or aquatic sands work well - do not use play sand! Again, silica sand is the safest bet.
- Rinse the growing medium with distilled water, reverse osmosis water, or rainwater. This removes potentially toxic minerals, along with nutrients that can attract pests and algae. Try the following rinsing method:[1]
- Place peat moss in a bucket and cover with tap water. Stir with your hand, then squeeze to wring out water. Transfer to second bucket and repeat two or three times with distilled water or rainwater.
- Place sand in a bucket or tray outdoors, to avoid clogging plumbing. Blast sand with hose until submerged, then drain out water. Repeat 10–20 times or until water is mostly clear, then rinse a final time with distilled water or rainwater.
- Provide full sunlight. These plants naturally grow in nutrient poor soil, where few other plants can compete with them for light. Most pitcher plants will even have trouble growing under artificial lights or on a sunny windowsill. Keep them in an outdoor location that receives at least 6 hours of direct sunlight each day. Try the south side of your house if you're in the Northern Hemisphere, or the north side if you're in the Southern Hemisphere.
- Sarracenia Purpurea, Rosea, Psittacina, and some of their hybrids can grow decently well on a sunny windowsill or in a terrarium; however, make sure you know the dormancy needs.full sun. Every few days, move it to an area that receives slightly more sun or put it outside for an hour longer each day.
- Find a low-mineral water source. Most tap water contains too many dissolved minerals and salts, which can build up over time and kill the plant. For best results, use collected rainwater, reverse osmosis water or distilled water.
- Avoid "spring water," which may contain harmful additives.
- If you have a water testing kit, check that your water contains fewer than 100ppm minerals, and no chlorine or heavy metals. If your tap water meets these standards, it might be safe. Reduce risk by rinsing the watering tray periodically.
- Provide plenty of water. All species of Sarracenia respond well to the tray method of watering. Place the pot in a large tray or trough, and pour in water. As a general rule, as long as the water is below the crown of the plant (the base of the stem), they should be fine.
- Some species have specific requirements concerning the amount water. Try to find species-specific information if you suspect water-related problems.
- Apply fertilizer with caution. Fertilizer can just as easily kill your pitcher plants as help them. Light fertilizing for the first two or three years can improve growth, but experiment at your own risk. Try burying just four grains of balanced (14-14-14) slow-release fertilizer ½ cm (0.2 inches) beneath the surface, at the start of the growing season. Or you can get something such as seaweed fertilizer (like Maxsea 16-16-16) and dilute it 1/4 tsp per gallon and put it inside the pitchers... All the way up to the top!
- Feed indoor plants. Outdoor pitcher plants are adept at catching their own meals. Feed indoor plants dehydrated phoenix worms, or meal worms during the growing season. About one worm per trap per month should be enough, but this may vary based on size and species. Bloodworms can also be used.
- Outdoor pitcher plants, especially upright pitchers, may even find too much food, and topple over from the weight of the insects! If this starts to happen, stick a cotton ball in the mouth of the pitcher until it's had time to digest.
EditCaring for Dormant Sarracenia - Understand dormancy. All Sarracenia go through an annual dormancy period. Growth will stop, and some or all of the traps will brown and die. This is triggered by colder temperatures and shorter days. It usually lasts at least 3 months.
- Indoor plants may not go dormant on their own. Trigger dormancy in late autumn by moving them to a cold garage or basement. In some cases, if no other option is available, you can place them in the fridge for the required time.
- Reduce water and food. During this period, the plants require considerably less water. Allow them to partially dry out before topping up the water. Stop feeding completely until the spring. Never add fertilizer to a dormant plant.
- Trim away dead traps in the spring. Before new growth appears in spring, usually in February or March, trim away the dead, brown traps. Apart from aesthetic reasons, this reduces the chance of mold and insects. For upright species, including flava and alata, trim the traps right down to the rhizome, so the rhizome can photosynthesize.
- For best results, look up your individual species or hybrid to check for different pruning requirements.
- Some species have traps that can last up to two years, including psittacina, purperea, rosea, and some of their hybrids. There may be a second die-off in late summer, which also requires trimming.
- Bring them indoors during extreme temperatures. Most Saracenia are pretty forgiving when it comes to temperature, and will usually survive outdoor winters in zones 5-9, even if covered in snow. Consider bringing them indoors if temperature drops below -6.7ºC (+20ºF), or during an early or late frost. Species native to Florida or Gulf of Mexico, including psittacina and rosea, should be taken indoors if the temperature drops below freezing.
- Plants can withstand low temperatures more effectively if protected from wind and kept near the house, rather than on an exposed deck or open area.
- Keep indoor plants dormant by storing them in an unheated garage or shed, with temperatures below 13ºC (55ºF).
- You can grow pitcher plants in a bog garden.
- Winter or EARLY spring is the best time of year to repot your plants and make divisions for trading or gifting.
- Boiling water will make minerals more concentrated, not less.
- Nurseries do occasionally mislabel their plants. If your pitcher plant is having trouble, try to identify the species. The related pitcher plant Darlingtonia californica or "cobra lily" can be mistaken for Sarracenia, but is much more difficult to care for.
EditRelated wikiHows EditSources and Citations Sarracenia Proboards. Flytrap Forums. Terra Forums.
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| How to Build Wine Racks Posted: 21 Mar 2016 01:00 AM PDT When you make your own wine racks, they can be designed to fit within a certain space or customized as a gift for friends and family. This tutorial breaks down a wall-mounted rack that also holds six glasses, and is an easy to intermediate woodworking project. EditCutting and Preparing the Rack - Round up the wood needed to build the rack. While you can always adjust the dimensions to fit your rack, the following tutorial will hold six bottles and six wine glasses. You can use any solid, easily worked wood you like, depending on your style preferences. You will need:
- You need one – 2×4 by 8-foot-long board
- You need two 1×4 by 8-foot-long boards[1]
- Ensure that you have all of the necessary equipment and supplies. If you have a woodworking shop, you likely have almost everything already. Still, check the following list before starting:
- Saw – (miter saw, circular saw, or hand saw)
- Drill
- Orbital sander (220 grit paper)
- Jigsaw
- Air nailer or hammer and nails
- Wood clamp
- 3/8-inch bit and 5/64-inch drill bit
- Carpenters square
- Tape measure
- Use your saw to cut your two 1x4 boards into shape. You can use a circular saw, hand saw, or miter saw. You want to end up with seven total boards, cutting as follows:
- Cut five (5) boards to 30" long a piece.
- One (1) board to 27" long
- Two (2) boards at just 2" long.
- Cut the 2x4 down to three separate pieces. You'll have three separate pieces of 2x4, giving you a total of eleven cut pieces of wood when you're done. After making all of your cuts, briefly use the orbital sander to remove any rough edges. The 2x4 should be cut to:
- Two (2) boards at 11" long.
- One (1) board at 10¼" long.
- Use an old coffee can, or similarly round object, to trace a rounded edge on the end of the three 2x4s. You want a simple curve on one end of each board, on the long flat side. You'll be cutting a rounded triangle off of the top corner of each 2x4.
- Clamp the 2x4 to the workbench, then use a jigsaw to cut along your curved line. Move slowly to cut the curve as purposely as possible. When done, sand down the edges.
- Each 2x4 will have one rounded edge and one squared edge. It looks a little like the front car of a train.
- Measure and mark one of the 30" boards with the following measurements. This is to hold your wine glasses. Just to be safe, center the glasses on the following marks to ensure that your specific glasses fit next to each other. You should make the following 12 marks.
- Measuring from the left edge:
- Mark the wood at 4 inch, 8 ¼ inch, and 12 ¾ inches.
- Measuring from the right edge:
- Mark the wood at 4 inch, 8 ¼ inch, and 12 ¾ inches
- Mark each one of your measurements 2" from the edge. Go to each 4" mark, then measure in from the edge 2". If it helps, use your straightedge to first draw a horizontal line at each measurement, then place the 2" mark on each measurement.
- Using a 3/8-inch bit, drill a hole at each 2" mark. Clamp the board to your workbench before drilling. These holes will be the tops of each notch for holding the wine glasses. Drill down as straight as possible.
- Draw a straight line along each side of the drill holes. You'll basically be making six "H" shapes on the board, but the drilled hole will form the horizontal bridge in the middle. Line up your straight edge along each side of the hole and draw two lines across the width of the board. You'll make 12 lines in total.
- The 2" measurement should be above the drill hole, with extra room below.
- Use the jigsaw to cut up from the edge to your drill hole, following the lines you drew. Do not come from the 2" line, come up from the bottom. If you cut a little wider than your lines, that is fine -- it is better to err on the side of wider than narrower. Your wine glasses will slide into this upside-down, as the bottom will hold up the glass. The stems need to fit into these notches.
- Just cut straight up to the hole you drilled -- the notches of wood should fall right out.
- When done, use the orbital sander again to smooth out the new cuts.
EditAssembling the Rack - Place the 27" board between the two rounded 11" 2x4s. Stand the 2x4s up so that rounded edge points to the ceiling, then fit the 27" between them so that it lays flush between the boards. Then center the 10¼" on the plank in the middle.
- The center is at 15" from either side of the long board.
- Adhere all three 2x4s to the 27" long base. You can use a variety of methods, all of which require wood glue. Use your square to ensure each joint is 90-degrees. Place a generous amount of glue on each joint, clamp them together, and then adhere the wood using whatever method you prefer:
- Nail gun, or hammer and nails. Use at least 2 nails per joint.
- Screws and power drill. Be sure to pre-drill the holes to prevent the wood from splitting.
- Pocket holes and a Kreg jig (1-1/2")
- Attach the three of the 30" 1x4s to form the back of the wine rack. The three curved sections should curve away from the back so that the highest section of the 2x4's is the top and back of the finished rack. Turn the rack over, then liberally apply wood glue to the back of each 2x4 and the bottom panel. Place your three boards evenly on the back, then use a nail gun or hammer and nails to tack all three boards in place.
- Attach another of the 30" boards on the front of the rack, right at the bottom. Turn the rack over, then lay the 1x4 over the front of the rack so that it is flush to the bottom. This board keeps the wine from falling out of the rack.
- Again, use wood glue, line up the board, then tack it in place with the nail gun.
- Glue the entire underside of the two tiny 2" boards. These will for them "feet" of the wineglass. Turn the rack so that you can see the bottom of it. Glue up one side of the small square boards and then place them on the bottom two corners, so that the rack has two "feet" on the bottom right and bottom left. After gluing, use a nail in each corner to bind the feet to the rack.
- The "bottom" corners are the two closest to the back of the rack, where you have the three 30" boards.
- Attach the notched wine glass holder to the two feet. It will be flush with bottom of the wine rack. Simply line up the wine glass holder with the bottom of the rack, then glue and nail it to the feet, There should be 1" of space between the bottom of the rack and the top of the notched glass holder.
- Test a couple of glasses in the holder before attaching anything to make sure they fit.
- Let everything dry, then sand and stain. Give the rack 2-3 hours to dry, just to be safe. Then run your orbital sander over everything to smooth it out and get rid of any excess wood glue. When done, you can finish it any way you like -- painting, finishing, staining, etc.
- Measure the distance between two studs in the wall you're installing the rack on. You'll need to drill some pilot holes into your rack, but you can't if you' don't know how far apart the studs are. Most are 16" apart -- but check your wall with a stud finder as well.
- Drill pilot holes in the center of your rack, placing them the same distance apart as your studs. To find the center, simply measure the middle of the middle board in the back -- it will be 1-¾" from either edge. For a normal wall, drill two holes 16" apart from each other along this middle board.
- Use 3-inch wood screws to attach the rack to the studs in the wall. Follow your pilot holes, and make sure you hit the studs. Your wine rack is done!
EditThings You'll Need - Saw – (miter saw, circular saw, or hand saw)
- Drill
- Orbital sander (220 grit paper)
- Jigsaw
- Air nailer or hammer and nails
- Wood clamp
- 3/8-inch bit and 5/64-inch drill bit
- Carpenters square
- Tape measure
EditRelated wikiHows EditSources and Citations
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