| How to Make a Flower Out of Ribbon Posted: 08 Feb 2022 08:00 AM PST When making ribbon flowers it is important to take care when creating the petals. Choose thread that matches your ribbons to create inconspicuous stitches. Whether creating for clothes, pins, or a diy project, creating flowers out of ribbons is a fun and easy project. [Edit]Creating Grosgrain Ribbon Flowers - Gather your materials. Check the dollar store before you purchase your materials online or an arts and crafts store. Make sure you know exactly how many flowers you will need in order to budget how much material you will need to purchase. Grosgrain is a heavy ribbon with a corded texture that is usually made of rayon or cloth silk. To create grosgrain ribbon flowers you will need[1]:
- 22 inches of ¾ inch wide grosgrain ribbon. Grosgrain ribbon comes in a variety of colours.
- ⅛ inch pearls or beads. The number of beads will vary depending on their diameter.
- Thread to match the colour of the grosgrain ribbon.
- Brooch pin or barrette and hot glue (optional)
- Cut and fold your ribbon to create your flower. Cut 4 pieces of ribbon that each measure 5 ½ inches long. Create a loop with each piece by folding with the ends meeting in the center. The loop will measure 2 ½ inches long while there will be a ¼ inch overlap of ribbon at the center.[2]
- Create the flower petals using pins. Hold each loop in place with a pin and create two crosses by pinning two pieces of ribbon at their center and repeat with the two remaining pieces of ribbon.[3]
- Place the crosses together at a 45 degree angle. Stitch the four pieces of ribbon together with matching coloured thread. The eight loops should look like eight petals once you've stitched the two crosses together.[4]
- Your stitching should resemble a box at the center point at which the two crosses come together. The box makes sure that the loops do not come loose and your flower remains secure.
- Stitch your beads or pearls to create the center of your flower. Ensure that the bead hole won't be visible as you loop the thread through it. Begin at the center and continue outward to create a circle of beads. Stitch another circle around the first. This will use twice as many beads.[5]
- You only need to penetrate the first layer of ribbon as you stitch your beads or pearl.
- The number of beads and pearls will vary depending on the diameter of the beads or pearls but generally you will be using about 5 - 7.
- Stitch the flower onto clothes or use it as a brooch or barrette (optional). If you are using the flower as a brooch or barrette, simply use a glue gun to add a clasping barrette pin to the back of the flower, opposite the pearls or beads.[6]
[Edit]Creating a Rolling Flower - Gather your materials. Choose your prefered colour of ribbon from your arts and craft store or fabric store. You will also need a sewing machine, scissors, a wire and foil paper. Choose wire that is very flexible.[7]
- Create a strong but flexible band using the foil paper wrapped over wire. Fold the foil paper horizontally several times over a piece of wire. Create a band about 1.5 - 2 cms thick. You need the band to be thick enough so that it holds it shape as you spiral out to create your flower.[8]
- Wrap the band in your ribbon. Wrap the band vertically by holding one end of the ribbon at one of the band with your thumb and pulling the length of the ribbon up and around the band. Repeat the process until the entire band is covered and the ribbon overlaps about ⅓ of its width each time you loop it around the band. The band should now look like it is scaled by the ribbon.[9]
- Keep the wrap as tight as you can.
- Remove the paper but leave the wire. Gently slide the paper off the wire and the wrapping by pinching one end of the wrap and wire with one hand and pinching only the foil paper with the other hand. Sew the side you are pinching closed once you have removed the paper completely. Make sure that the ribbon is tight and none of the scales are loose making the wire visible.[10]
- Use the open end of the ribbon as the center of your flower and roll. Keeping the ribbon tight, roll the ribbon as tightly as possible as you keep the open side at the center. Be sure to gently but firmly pull the length of the ribbon each time you create a new layer of the spiral. Pinch the center to keep the spiral tight with each new layer.[11]
- Sew the final end to keep the flower closed. Create a subtle stitch to secure the end of the ribbon onto the rest of the spiraled bloom. You may only stitch the bottom of the final scale or outer layer of the spiral to keep it inconspicuous. Once secure, you may also play with the petals to spread them out along the wire to create the appearance of a more open bloom.[12]
- You may use a hot glue gun instead of stitching to keep the flower together.
[Edit]Creating a Ribbon Rose - Gather your materials. Choose your prefered colour of 1 ½ inch wide wire edge ribbon from an arts and crafts store. You will also need a pencil and needle-nose pliers.[13]
- Create a knot and gather the ribbon. Tie a simple knot at one end of the ribbon. Gather the ribbon so that it becomes ruffled along the wire. Gather the ribbon by pinching one end of the wire and pulling the other end of the wire as you move the material of the ribbon toward where the knot is, which is the pinched end.[14]
- Use your fingers to create more of a ruffle as you keep the material of the ribbon tightly gathered along the wire and fluffed out in a ruffle as you move away from the wire.
- Use the pencil to roll the ribbon. Create a tight center around the pencil as you roll the ribbon around it. Start just after the knot and keep the knot below the roll and alongside the pencil. Once secure, remove the pencil but continue to create the rest of the rose by rolling the rest of the gathered ribbon around the center that you have created with the pencil.[15]
- Tighten and form to your preference. Secure the rose by wrapping the pulled wire around the base of the flower as tightly as you can. You should wrap the wire above the knot. Use needle-nose pliers to grasp the center of your creation as you tighten and secure the layers by twisting the wire. Use your fingers to enliven the petals by flattening and spreading the material of the ribbon to your preference.[16]
- Keep layers tightly wound when creating ribbon roses and rolling flowers.
- Choose thread that matches your ribbon to keep your stitches inconspicuous.
[Edit]Things You'll Need - Ribbon
- Wire edge ribbon
- 22 inches of ¾ inch wide grosgrain ribbon. Grosgrain ribbon comes in a variety of colours.
- ⅛ inch pearls or beads. The number of beads will vary depending on their diameter.
- Thread to match the colour of the grosgrain ribbon.
- Brooch pin or barrette and hot glue (optional)
- Sewing machine
- Scissors
- Wire
- Foil paper
- Pencil
- Needle-nose pliers
[Edit]References [Edit]Quick Summary |
| How to Make Poppadoms Posted: 08 Feb 2022 12:00 AM PST Poppadoms are spicy thin wafers that are typically served as a side dish or snack in traditional Indian fare. They're hearty and crisp, and can be served either warm or cold. Making poppadoms at home is easy and fun for cooks of all ages! [Edit]Ingredients - 2 cups chickpea, garbanzo bean, or Urad flour
- 1 tsp. (5 ml) ground pepper
- 1 tsp. (5 ml) ground cumin
- 1/2 tsp. (2.5 ml) salt
- 1 minced garlic clove
- 1/4 cup (2 oz.) water
- 1/2 tsp. (5 ml) cayenne pepper
- 2 tsp. vegetable oil or ghee
For deep frying: 2 cups oil [Edit]Preparing the Poppadom Dough - Place the flour, ground pepper, cumin, and salt in a bowl.
- Put 2 cups of flour, 1 tsp. of ground pepper, 1 tsp. of ground cumin, and 1/2 tsp. of salt in a large bowl.
- Though Urad flour is the most traditional flour used for making poppadoms, it can be a little difficult to find if you don't have any luck at your local Indian or Asian markets. If you can't find it, you can use garbanzo bean or chickpea flour instead.[1]
- Toss in 1 minced garlic clove and mix well. Use a wooden spoon to thoroughly stir the ingredients together until they are blended. Make sure that the garlic is fairly well distributed throughout the dough. Once you've stirred the dough for at least 30 seconds to a minute, make a little depression in the top of the dough for the water you'll add.
- Pour in the water. Now, pour 1/4 cup (2 oz.) water into the little depression you've made.
- Mix the ingredients together until a firm, dry dough forms. At first, you should use a wooden spoon to stir the ingredients together, if you wish. As the mixture gets a bit more formed, you can start using your hands. Alternately, you can just use your hands to incorporate the water right away.
- Knead the dough for approximately 2-3 minutes or until it is smooth. Now, just use your hands to knead the dough in the bowl until you've made a nice, substantive mixture that you can work with and all of the ingredients are incorporated. The water should help everything stick together.
- Break off one walnut-sized piece of dough at a time and then roll it. Use a roller to roll each piece back and forth until it is nice and thin. You should use a lightly floured, lightly oiled surface for best results, so that the poppadom pieces are easier to cook. Many poppadom recipes call for you to actually shape each piece into a circle, using either a shaper or an old CD or DVD to get the shape you're going for, though it doesn't really matter because the shape won't perfectly stay as it is.
- You can also brush a bit of extra oil or ghee on each piece of dough to make it even easier to cook.
- Sprinkle each thin circle with cayenne pepper. This can add an extra spicy kick to your finished poppadoms later on. You can turn the poppadoms over and even sprinkle them with the spice on both sides if you really want to go for the full effect.
[Edit]Baking Poppadoms - Transfer the thin pieces of dough onto 2 large baking sheets. Now that you've prepared your poppadoms for baking, all you have to do is carefully place them on a baking tray lined with foil. You can even oil it a bit to keep the poppadoms from sticking. Make sure you leave enough room between each piece of dough so they don't stick together when they expand a bit during cooking.
- You may need to fit several baking sheets in the oven at a time, or to bake your poppadoms in several shifts if you only have one sheet.
- Bake the dough in the oven for 15 to 25 minutes at 300ºF (150ºC) or until the wafers are crisp and dry. Keep an eye on your dough after the first 10 minutes or so to make sure it doesn't burn too fast. The finished product should be crisp and dry, but not so dry that it instantly breaks at the touch.
- Allow the poppadoms to cool completely. Set the baking sheet aside and wait for them to cool completely before you fry them.
- If you are not ready to serve your poppadoms, you may store them in an airtight container once they have cooled.
[Edit]Pan Frying Poppadoms - Heat oil in a frying pan over medium heat. Now, you should heat 1/2 tsp. (2.5 ml) of oil in a frying pan and wait a minute for the oil to start bubbling a little bit.
- If you don't want to fry your baked poppadoms and enjoy the crisp and dry baked version, then you can stop before frying them. However, frying your poppadoms after baking them will give you that delightful, authentic taste you may be craving.
- Place 1 or 2 poppadoms into the oil and turn them over when the edges begin to curl. This should only take about 30 seconds to a minute on one side, and even a bit less time on the second side. Use tongs to carefully turn over the poppadoms once they have cooked on the first side.
- Remove the poppadoms before they begin to brown. This will ensure that you don't overcook this tasty treat.
- Place your homemade poppadoms onto paper towels while you continue cooking the rest. Place the fried poppadoms on paper towels to absorb the excess oil while cooking the remainder of the batch.
- Serve. Serve this tasty treat on its own or with your favorite dish. You can enjoy them with hummus, chutney, baba ganoush, or your favorite Indian food.
[Edit]Deep Frying Poppadoms - Heat 2 cups of oil in a deep pan. Give the oil a few minutes to reach a boil. This will get you ready to deep fry the poppadoms.
- Place a piece of dough in the oil and let it fry for about 2 minutes. Now, take the raw poppadom dough you've made and place one piece at a time into the oil. Carefully watch over it as it fries. Of course, you can deep fry more than one poppadom at a time if you're getting really impatient, but this can lead to problems because they may fuse together, or you may lose track of one of them and lead it to burn a bit. The poppadom will begin to "pop" out a bit, and will take on a more full, airy texture.[2]
- Flip it over and cook it for about 30 seconds on the other side. Once it has cooked on one side, use a slotted spoon to flip it over so that it cooks on the other side. It won't need to cook for as long on the second side as on the first, though you should watch to make sure it is cooked evenly on both sides and cook it for a bit longer or for a bit less time on the second side if necessary. The finished product should be a nice rich golden brown color.
- Remove the poppadom from the oil with a slotted spoon. Carefully use a slotted spoon remove the poppadom from the oil. You can hold it over the oil for a few seconds to let the excess oil drip from the bottom of the spoon.
- Place the poppadom on a plate lined with a paper towel. The paper towel will absorb some of the extra oil. You can even flip the poppadom over after a minute or so, so that the oil from both sides is absorbed a bit.
- Deep fry the rest of the poppadoms. Now, continue to deep fry the poppadoms until they are all cooked to your liking. You may want to line multiple plates with paper towels so that more of their oil is absorbed.
- Serve. Enjoy these tasty treats on their own, along with your favorite Indian meal, or even eat them like chips and dip them into a bit of chutney.
[Edit]Sun Baking Poppadoms - Place the dough rounds on rimmed baking sheets. Take the dough you've made and prepare it for sun baking. Make sure the pieces are spaced far enough apart to give them room to expand a bit without touching each other. You'll need to use at least 2 baking sheets to do this.[3]
- Put the sheets in direct sunlight until the rounds are completely dry, for 24-48 hours. To do this successfully, of course, you need to find a warm place with direct sunlight, with a temperature that should be ideally at least 80-85ºF (25-30ºC), if not much warmer. The warmer it is, of course, the more quickly your poppadoms will bake.
- Alternately, you can dry them in the oven at the lowest possible setting, for around 4-6 hours.[4]
- Store the finished product. If you're not ready to serve them, you should store them in an airtight container as soon as you can. They'll be good to go for up to 6 months.
- Serve. If you want to serve your poppadoms, either eat them right away or heat them up directly over an open flame or place them on a gas grill just until they're lightly toasted. You can also place them in your broiler, which should be set on high, until they're lightly toasted.
- Traditionally, poppadoms are spicy, but you can make plain ones by omitting the cayenne pepper in this recipe.
- The flavor of this poppadom recipe can be altered slightly with the addition of herbs, peppercorns, or chiles. You may also substitute other lentil or cereal flours for chickpea flour for different textures.
[Edit]Things You'll Need - Mixing bowl
- Rolling pin
- Oil
- Pastry brush
- 2 large baking sheets
- Frying pan
- Paper towels
[Edit]References
[Edit]Quick Summary |
| How to Turn Off Autocorrect in Word Posted: 07 Feb 2022 04:00 PM PST While the AutoCorrect feature is usually very helpful, it can get frustrating to have words in other languages or coding words changed. This wikiHow article will show you how to turn off AutoCorrect in Word using a Mac or Windows computer. [Edit]Turning Off AutoCorrect in Word with Windows - Open your project in Word. You can open Word from the Start menu or find your Word file in File Explorer, right-click it, and select Open with > Word.
- The changes you are making will apply only to the current project in Word that you have open. If you want to turn off AutoCorrect in later projects, you will need to do this again.
- Click the tab and select . You'll see this in the editing ribbon with Home, Insert, and View.
- Click . It's in the panel on the left side of your screen.
- Click . Once you click Proofing, the right side of the window will change to reflect the current Proofing settings.
- Clicking AutoCorrect Options will open a new window with more options.
- Click the tab. It might be on the second row of tabs.
- Click the box next to "Replace text as you type" to uncheck it . You can close the window and the changes will apply only to the project you're working on.[1]
- You might find spell check distracting as well, and can disable it. Go to File > Options > Proofing > Check spelling as you type > OK. To check your spelling manually, go to Review > Spelling & Grammar.[2]
- If you're using the web version of Word, go to the Review tab and click the arrow next to "Spelling & Grammar," then click AutoCorrections and Replace text as you type.
- For older versions of Word, you might find the AutoCorrect features under "AutoFormat" in the Format tab or in "Word Options" after clicking the "Office" button (it's the large circular button featured in Word 2007).
[Edit]Turning off AutoCorrect in Word with Mac - Open your project in Word. You can open Word from the Dock or find your Word file in Finder, right-click it, and select Open with > Word.
- The changes you are making will apply only to the current project in Word that you have open. If you want to turn off AutoCorrect in later projects, you will need to do this again.
- Hover your mouse over and click . The Word menu is in the menu bar at the top of your screen with the Apple logo. You may need to click Word to prompt the menu to drop-down.
- Click . It's with an "ABC" icon next to a lightning bolt.
- Click the box next to "Replace text as you type" to uncheck it. You can close the window and the changes will apply only to the project you're working on.
[Edit]References [Edit]Quick Summary |
| How to Clean Car Floor Mats Posted: 07 Feb 2022 08:00 AM PST Cleaning your car floor mats, whether they are rubber or made out of upholstery, is one of the quickest ways you can improve the overall look of your car. Your car will smell better too! [Edit]Preparing to Clean Your Car Floor Mats - Remove your floor mats, whether rubber or cloth, from your car, if possible. Open all of your car doors one-by-one, and take your mats out of the car, if they are removable. Do not clean them while they are still inside the car.[1]
- You want to remove the mats so that you won't get water damage in your car's interior. Also, you should not allow oily or foam consistency products to come in contact with the gas, clutch and brake pedals in your car as this could cause your foot to slip off the pedal during driving, which is dangerous.
- Clean the mats outside. You can clean the mats at a gas station or at home in your parking lot or inside your garage. Most car mats are removable. However, occasionally the mats are built into the car. In those cases, you will have to clean them inside the car.
- Vacuum cloth floor mats first. Use a vacuum to ensure that you suction up all of the dust particles and soil specks from your car mats before you try to clean them further.
- Cleaning a damp carpet mat can be difficult. You could use baking soda to absorb some moisture and foul odor by lightly sprinkling it onto the carpet floor mat and then leaving it to sit for about 10-20 minutes, before vacuuming.
- Vacuum the mats on both sides, making sure to thoroughly get crumbs and dust off of them.
- Shake or whack the mats to remove dirt. This will shake out some of the dust that is embedded in the rubber or cloth floor mats. Do this outside.
- Give the mat a couple of whacks against the ground.
- Find a hard surface to strike the mats against. This works for rubber and cloth mats. You might also want to use a scraper to remove hardened materials from the rubber mat before cleaning it.
[Edit]Washing Rubber Car Floor Mats - Choose good quality rubber car floor mats. Car floor mats are often made out of rubber. Especially up north where it can get rainy and snowy, the rubber mats provide good moisture protection for your interior and will dry faster than any other mat would do.
- You should pick rubber mats of good quality or else you will end up getting holes in them, which can make the water go under the mat and onto the floor and your interior floor will start to rot.
- If the interior floor starts to rot, this will create a really bad smell inside your car over time.
- Take a hose. Use a hose to simply wash the mats, but only on the dirty side of the mat. Don't make the mats wet on the downside.
- The hose should help you remove the loosely gathered dirt or food on the rubber floor mats.
- You could use a bucket of water if you don't have a hose, although the pressure from the hose is useful for dislodging loose materials from the mats. You could also go to a car wash and pressure wash them off.
- Apply soap to every mat. Mix laundry soap and baking soda with water. This will fizz and lift out dirt. If you don't have baking soda, just use any kind of liquid soap.
- You could use spray soap or you could apply the soap with a wet rag. It's not hard to get dirt off of rubber floor mats, so usually soap and water is going to do the trick.
- Apply more pressure to your water hose, and wash the mats as good and thoroughly as you can. You could also clean rubber floor mats with baby wipes and hand sanitizer.
- Dry the car mats. The mats should be dry before you put them back into your car, but if you are at a gas station washing them there, you may not be able to wait.
- In that case, place all your mats where they are supposed to be, and put your air conditioning on full heat, and flip the fan switch to full power.
- For the best and fastest drying, put the AC Location switch to feet warming, as this will allow the mats to dry out quickly.
[Edit]Washing Cloth Car Floor Mats - Rub baking soda onto the upholstered car floor mats. Baking soda is good for getting stains out of car floor mats.
- The baking soda will also help neutralize odors from pets and food and other dirt.[2]
- You could also put baking soda with water on the bristles of a stiff scrub brush, and then scrub the floor mats clean.
- Apply soapy water to the car mats. You can add detergent to soapy water, and scrub the floor mats with a stiff brush to make them clean.
- Make a mixture with two tablespoons of washing powder and an equal amount of any shampoo. Then, rub the brush on your car floor mat with that mixture. You can also use this mixture to clean your car bumper which is made up of plastic only. You have many different options for cleaning materials.
- With a small hand brush (stiff bristles) or a deck scrubber brush, gently brush any debris away from the mat. Scrub hard. Wash all the soap off with clean water.
- Try spray cleaner. You could spray a carpet cleaner over the mat and leave for 30 mins. Or you can buy special upholstery cleaner for cars at most auto shops.[3]
- The carpet cleaner should either have evaporated or have been absorbed by the mat. Then, use the hand brush to make sure you work the carpet cleaner into and throughout the mat.
- You could make your own spray by adding one bottle of white vinegar to the same amount of hot water, and then spraying it on the car mats. Scrub with the brush. This method is particularly good at removing salt stains.[4].
- If there is chewing gum on the mats, you can apply peanut butter and some salt, and then scrub the mats to remove the remnants of the chewing gum.
- Use a power washer or steam cleaner. Another option is to use a steam cleaning vacuum on the mats. This should work as well on car floor mats as it does on carpet inside your house.
- If you don't have a power washer at home, you can usually find them at car washes, and you could power wash your floor mats there.
- You can also put car floor mats in your washing machine, using your regular detergent. Apply spray stain remover first. [5]
- Vacuum the floor mats again. This will help suck up some of the water and remove any remaining dirt particles from the mats.
- A wet/dry vac (shop-vac) is recommended because they are designed to remove moisture.[6]Vacuum cleaners with hose attachments also work well because they have suctioning power.
- Take a hoover with 680 watts or more power, so you have more power. Then, take the mat and hoover it clean using a thin hose for better suction.
- Dry the floor mats thoroughly. To dry cloth floor mats, hang them up somewhere or dry them in a dryer. Floor mats get a damp musky smell if not dry.
- You could also spray them with a clean fresh scent. Leave them outside in the sun to dry. This will also help freshen the smell.
- You could also put cloth floor mats in the dryer. Then, use a razor to remove any excess fur hanging off the mat (just razor the whole mat and all the extra fur will disappear)
- Try not to eat food in your car.
[Edit]Warnings - Make sure that you do not vacuum wet mats with a vacuum that is not designed for it.
[Edit]Related wikiHows [Edit]References [Edit]Quick Summary |
| How to Do Curl Ups Posted: 07 Feb 2022 12:00 AM PST Curl ups are a great way to strengthen your core, and you can easily do them at home without any equipment! Below we break down how to do curl ups using the proper form so you can start incorporating them into your workouts. Plus, we've included some more advanced modifications you can try and tips that will help you get the most out of your workouts. [Edit]Beginning Curl Ups - Lie on your back. On a mat, or directly on the ground, lie on your back with your arms crossed over your chest. Bend your knees slightly until your feet are flat on the floor and about a foot away from your buttocks. Have a partner or weight hold down your feet so that you keep consistent form.[1]
- Raise your upper body. Contract your rectus abdominis muscles to raise your upper body off of the ground. Your shoulders should be around 30 degrees off the floor. Your rectus abdominis is the main muscle used in curl-ups. It is the muscle that begins on the lower portion of your ribs, travels down the center of your stomach, and attaches to your pelvis. When contracted, the distance between your ribs and hips shortens, resulting in a curl up.
- Stop when your elbows reach your thighs. Lower your upper body back down, letting gravity help you. When you are going back down, you don't need to keep your abdominals flexed. The entire curl up should take approximately 3 seconds.[2]
- Repeat with pace. Try going for a minute straight. If you have proper form, you should be able to do 20 curl ups without a problem. You should do the same amount in your first 30 seconds as in your last 30 seconds. Often, beginners start out too fast and cannot finish the time with strength which results in bad form.[3]
- With regular practice, a pace of 40-50 per minute is attainable.
[Edit]Advancing to Modifications - Extend your arms. Although the standard curl up only requires you to have your arms crossed over your body, if you are looking to add difficulty and increase muscle activation, you can extend your arms above your head. Lift them as if you are pushing your hands through the ceiling when you do your curl up. This form activates the greatest contraction in the rectus abdominis.[4]
- Straighten your legs. This will help target your lower abdominals and hips. Perform the curl up exactly the same as you would if your knees were bent. If you switch your form, you won't target the correct muscles and could hurt yourself.
- Hold for more time. If you want to make curl ups a bit more difficult, hold your upper body up at the peak of your curl up for an extended amount of time. Just adding 3-5 seconds to each curl up will be give you the difficultly you're after.
[Edit]Getting the Most of Your Curl Up - Eat right. If you're doing a lot of curl ups, your abdominals will be sore. Be sure to help your muscles heal by eating a proper amount of protein. This will help promote muscle growth and aid in recovery.[5]
- Add cardio. If you're doing curl ups to get noticeably more defined abdominals, pair them with cardio for faster results.
- Practice with consistency. Doing curl ups once won't affect your body. If you're looking to get better at them, you need to practice them consistently. Make mini goals to reach a few times during the week and you'll notice that they get easier the more that you do them.
- Doing 10 minutes of abdominal exercises each day will help strengthen your core. Each week, you'll be able to make the exercises more difficult.[6]
[Edit]Warnings - Do not exercise while injured without consulting a physician.
- Do not put your hands behind your head and pull by your neck. This can result in injury.
[Edit]Related wikiHows [Edit]References [Edit]Quick Summary |
| How to Wash White Clothes by Hand Posted: 06 Feb 2022 04:00 PM PST Hand washing your white clothes can help them last longer, especially if they're made out of delicate fabrics. It takes a little more work than using the washing machine, but it's so worth it. Below we'll walk you through the whole process step-by-step, from pre-treating stains to hand washing your whites to drying them when you're finished. [Edit]Treating Stains - Spot treat stains so they don't set into your clothes. Before washing your white clothes, take a moment to thoroughly look them over and check for any stains or discolorations. Treat these spots before you move on to hand washing, otherwise, the stain could become a permanent part of your garment.[1]
- If you're on the go, carry a stain-remover pen with you to treat small spots that show up over the course of the day.
- If you can, treat a stain as soon as possible. Dab at the stain rather than rubbing, and use cold water to try and rinse it away. This will make it less likely that the stain will become permanent.
- Bathe the clothes in bleach to remove stains and brighten your clothes. When working with bleach, wear gloves to keep it off of your skin, work in a well-ventilated area, and keep it out of your eyes. Measure of chlorine or laundry-specific bleach into a bucket, along with of water. Put your clothes into the bucket and let them soak for 15 to 30 minutes. Once they're done soaking, carefully dump out the bleach, gently wring out your clothes, and wash them as usual.[2]
- If you've never bleached this particular item before, test the bleach on an inconspicuous location first to make sure it doesn't ruin the fabric (the inside of a cuff or collar is a great spot to try).
- Set a timer when working with bleach—leaving the clothes in the bleach mixture for too long could ruin the fabric.
- Use hydrogen peroxide for hard-to-remove stains, like wine or grass. Soak a cotton ball (or several) in hydrogen peroxide. Dab the stain until it is completely saturated. Let the hydrogen peroxide do its work for about 30 minutes before rubbing the stain with a wet towel. Rinse the stained area, repeat the stain-removal process if you need to, and then move on to washing it.[3]
- When rubbing the stained area, use very gentle pressure. Too much rubbing can wear out the fabric and could even fray it if it's done too hard.
- Soak the clothing in lemon juice for a safe alternative to bleach. For white clothes that are looking a little dingy, lemon juice can really brighten them up. Fill a clean bucket with of hot water and of lemon juice. Submerge the clothing in the bucket and let it soak for at least 1 hour. Drain the water, gently squeeze the excess out, and then move on to the washing.[4]
- You have to use real lemons for this. The pre-bottled stuff won't work as well.
- This is especially good at getting armpit stains out.[5]
- Treat armpit stains with a paste made of baking soda and water. Make a paste out of 4 tablespoons (60 grams) of baking soda and of warm water. Stir the two ingredients together until they're completely combined. Wet the stained area on your shirt, and then apply a thick layer of paste to it. Gently rub the paste into the fabric, and then let it sit for 30 to 60 minutes. Rinse out the paste and then wash the garment.[6]
- Treat armpit stains every time you wash the garment to keep them from building up and becoming permanent.
[Edit]Washing the Clothes - Check the label for special instructions before you begin. "Dry-clean only" means you shouldn't wash it yourself at home, even if you do it by hand. Check out the water temperature, detergent expectations, and drying instructions so that you're fully prepared to wash your clothes the right way.[7]
- Pay special attention to directions regarding bleach. If an item says "do not bleach," you'll be better off heeding that advice. Bleach can be great and get items bright and clean, but it also can be pretty abrasive and can wear down fibers quickly, making your clothes threadbare before too long.
- Fill a clean tub or sink with water based on the care label instructions. Some clothing items need to be washed in cold water, while others need warm or hot water. Do whatever the label says to care for your clothes as best as possible.[8]
- Make sure your sink or tub is clean before you use it. If needed, give it a quick scrub with warm water and dish detergent. Rinse it out thoroughly so there is no soap residue.
- If the temperature wasn't specified on the label, use cool to lukewarm water.
- Add of mild detergent to the water. of detergent will be enough for 2 to 3 items of clothing, so adjust the amount if you're washing more than that at once. Add the detergent while the water is filling up so that it gets sudsy and is ready for the clothing.[9]
- You can also use a small amount of chlorine bleach with the laundry detergent for whiter and brighter clothes. of chlorine bleach is enough for of water. Wear gloves if you use bleach and work in a well-ventilated area.[10]
- Submerge and swish the clothing through the water to get it sudsy. Once the tub or bucket is full, go ahead and put the clothing into it and start moving it around. Swish it back and forth through the water so the soap has a chance to move through the fabric. Do this for 3 to 4 minutes to ensure the entire piece is clean.
- Never wash your white clothes with dark clothes.
- Drain the water from the tub and refill it with cool water. After you're done washing the clothes, pull the plug and let the sudsy water drain away. Push the wet clothing to the side and refill the tub rather than just running water from the faucet directly through the fabric—this could stretch the material out.
- You don't need to fill the tub back up all the way. Just fill it enough so that the clothing is completely submerged and you have some room to swish it about some more.
- Continue swishing the clothing until all the soap suds are gone. Clear away the suds by moving the clothing about in the cool water. If you need to, drain and refill the tub again until you're sure it has all come clean.[11]
- Having used the appropriate amount of detergent really pays off at this stage. If you didn't measure and used too much, you may be standing at the sink for a while rinsing out the excess suds.
- Smell the clothes if you're not sure all the soap is gone. A strong scent indicates there is still detergent that needs to be rinsed away.}}
[Edit]Drying Hand-Washed Clothes - Squeeze the excess water out of the clothes very gently. Don't wring the clothes or twist them, as that could stretch out the fibers and misshape the clothing. Instead, gather the clothing in your hands and simply press the fabric together, moving it around and reshaping it to access all areas. Continue doing this until the garment is no longer dripping wet.[12]
- If you do wring the fabric, use the amount of force you'd use to open a bottle of water.
- Put the clothing on a dry, clean, lint-free white towel. Lay out a white towel on a waterproof surface, then spread out your while clothing on the towel. Go ahead and unfold or un-bunch the clothing so it lays as flat as possible.[13]
- Towels that have been washed and dried a few times should be primarily lint-free.
- Roll up the towel and press down on the clothing to absorb the water. Either roll the towel up so that the garment is spiraled around the inside of the towel, or fold the towel up into equally-sized sections. Then firmly press down on the towel with your hands. Continue pressing down all over the towel so that you hit every area and soak up as much water as possible.[14]
- Use another towel if the first one gets too wet and can't soak up any more water.
- Dry the clothing in the sun for a natural bleaching effect. Use a clothesline and clothespins if your garment isn't too delicate to be hung. If it looks like it's going to rain or if it's wintertime, you'll be better off using a drying rack indoors.
- If you do line dry your clothes outside, don't forget to bring them in before you go to bed. Early morning dew will make them wet again and could cause them to wrinkle.
- Iron the item if it is wrinkly and put it away once it has dried. Revisit the care label to see if the item can be ironed. If so, and if it needs it, take a few moments to iron it before putting it away so that the wrinkles don't set into the fabric more deeply. Hang up your clothes or put them away in drawers to keep them in good shape for the next time you want to wear them.[15]
- Putting away clothes as soon as they have dried will help keep them from getting wrinkled in the first place.
- To give yourself enough time to wash and dry your white clothes, set time on your calendar to do these tasks 1 to 2 days before you'll need to wear the item again. This way, you'll be sure the clothes will be dry in time.
- When using bleach or lemon juice, consider wearing gloves to protect your hands. The bleach can dry out and burn your skin, especially if you have sensitive skin. Lemon juice can aggravate dry hands.
[Edit]Things You'll Need [Edit]Treating Stains - Hydrogen peroxide
- Cotton balls
- Towel
- Chlorine or laundry-specific bleach
- Lemon juice
- Bucket
- Baking soda
- Small bowl
- Spoon
[Edit]Washing the Clothes - Tub or sink
- Mild detergent
- Chlorine bleach (optional)
[Edit]Drying Hand-Washed Clothes - Lint-free white towel(s)
- Clothesline or drying rack
- Iron and ironing board (optional)
[Edit]References [Edit]Quick Summary |
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