How to Write a Business Profile Posted: 18 Sep 2016 05:00 PM PDT A business profile is like a résumé for your company. It lists basic company details and gives you a chance to highlight your strengths. Just like a résumé, you should write each business profile with a purpose in mind. Use it as an opportunity to briefly state why potential clients should work with you, but give thorough and precise details. EditGetting Down Company Information - Put your basic information first. Readers need to know who they're looking at before you get into the specifics. It will also demonstrate how organized and efficient you are. Make sure to give the company name, the year established, what your company does, who the principle is, all your contact info, and your website. If there are additional basic details relevant to your business, give them here.
- For example, your header could be:
XYZ Semantics, LLC Marketing Consultants | Est. 1975 in Las Vegas, NV 55 Corporation Drive, Las Vegas NV 56556 | ph. (555)555-5555, fax: (555)555-5556 Email: xyzsemantics@email.com | www.xyzsemanticsllc.com - Talk about your company's ideas. If you have a mission statement, put it here. Otherwise, write out your company vision, guiding ethos, and a little about your history. Telling who you are and what drives you gives your company a human element. It also gives you a chance to do some subtle advertising early on.
- This is a place you can afford to be a little vague. Mission statements are legally necessary for some businesses, and may need to be specific. For everyone else, try to state what you do without limiting yourself. You don't want to scare away potential business that thinks you wouldn't consider expanding into adjacent industries. But it is easy to overdo vague language.
- A bad example: "XYZ Semantics is a company driven by the pursuit of its dreams. We want to bring you with us on this journey. Our dedication to solutions and innovation make us the leading marketing consultants west of the Mississippi."
- A good example: "XYZ Semantics is seasoned and talented team of marketing consultants. Since 1975 we have helped our clients grow their business and profits. Though our methods are complex, our goal is simple: we want to help you sell your product to more customers."
- Find out more specific details. Check with your secretarial or human resource staff to find out up-to-date details in several areas. You may not need to use all these, but having them on hand will make it easier when you sit down to craft the profile. Set up a way to streamline this process in the future, as you will want to update this information in your profile regularly.
- Number of employees
- Turnover. Low turnover can indicate stability, but either way it's a good statistic to have on-hand.
- List of all business activities. What are all the areas you work in?
- Unique equipment or specialties. If you are the only company that produces, say, a rare machine part, you need to mention that.
- Certifications
- Imports/exports
- Your methodology and/or what software you use.
- Volume of output you can handle. Prospective clients need to know if you are prepared to meet their needs.
- Delivery stats. How many units do you ship in a given period?
- Major accounts or clients. This is a way to show prospective clients whether or not you are used to doing business with companies like theirs. It's also another chance for subtle advertising.
- Sift through all this information. Since you want to keep the profile short, you can't include every possible detail. Also, not all of them might be strengths. Pick out what might be relevant to include in your profile in various contexts. Keep the other information on hand for future reference, but put the important stuff in one place for easy access.
EditDressing up a Business Profile - Study other business profiles. Look first at competitors and other companies in the same type of business. Note the style and tone of the ones that stand out. If you have a business you really look up to, such as a leading national corporation, look at their profile. What do they do that stands out to you? Incorporate this style into your own.
- Use accurate, up-to-date details. Before you sit down to write the profile, make sure you have the most recent numbers you can find. Prospective clients aren't interested in your performance from five years ago. They want to know how you will deliver now. Get your staff to update you on these details regularly so you have to do less leg work when it comes time to write a new profile.
- Keep it short. Most times, you want people to read your profile as potential customers. Make sure they read all the way through by keeping it short and engaging. Show you respect their time and you don't want to waste it. Short business profiles also indicate that you don't need a lot of flowery language and decorations to show you are the best. Let the numbers speak for themselves.
- For example, don't list every client you've had in the last 15 years. Keep the list short by including only the top 10 or so with high profiles. But make sure the language indicates they are not your only accounts!
- Avoid overly specific jargon as well as general statements. You will inevitably use terms that people in your industry understand, but a fourth grader might not. However, don't let the profile become an advertisement for your vocabulary. At the same time, avoid meaningless, vague statements. Experts in your industry will know fluff when they see it.
- Here are examples of poor wording:
- "Simulated annealing and RPCs have the necessary infrastructure to interface with our overseas servers."
- "Our company optimizes synergy, productivity, and innovation while diminishing losses."
- Here is an example of a targeted statement:
- "We store data safely in our servers at home and in our international offices."
- Use clean formatting. Some companies and individuals let their creativity get away from them by going for excessively showy visual appeal. This doesn't change the information presented, though. Pick a format that has lines and standard fonts to visually organize your profile. This is another way to ensure that the profile is easy to read.
- Mention why your company is best. This is a kind of advertisement for your business, so don't be afraid to talk about your strengths. Although, they should never worry about the accuracy of your business profile. Mention specific numbers or awards to quantify your performance.
- Make it creative but don't exaggerate. Find a nice middle ground between good writing that makes you stand out and showy prose. Write something that sounds nice in two paragraphs, and then edit it down to one.[1]
- For example, don't write: "We are marketing consultants based in Las Vegas, NV. We help businesses in the region sell their products and services. If you sign with us, we will be contractually obligated to advise you ways to increase your business."
- But also don't write: "Semantics, LLC started in 1975, became the uncontested leader in marketing consultation in the United States by 1980. Our unrelenting and fervent attention to detail makes us the only good option for businesses hoping to increase sales. If you work with us, your profits will increase threefold in the first year."
- Opt instead for: "XYZ Semantics was named in Style & Marketing Magazine's 'Top 5 Marketing Consultants of the Southwest' list every year since 2005. Our team was selected from a variety of backgrounds to promote a creative environment. Choosing our services will not be the last good decision you make."
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How to Prevent Kidney Stones in Dogs Posted: 18 Sep 2016 09:00 AM PDT Dogs often get kidney stones when their urine has a high concentration of mineral salts, which come out of the urine. These mineral salts form a stone in the urinary tract or kidneys. Kidney stones may also be caused by urinary tract infections (UTIs), kidney infections, medications, age, diet or because of the breed of dog. They are also known as nephrolithiasis or uroliths which mean calculi or stones in the kidney or urinary tract respectively.[1] By learning more about what may increase your dog's chances of developing kidney stones, you can take steps to help prevent them. EditKeeping Your Dog Hydrated - Make sure that your dog always has access to fresh, clean water. Water helps to dilute your dog's urine, which keeps the minerals in the urine suspended in fluid. Drinking enough water also makes your dog urinate on a regular schedule, which helps to flush the minerals in the urine from your dog's body.[2]
- Change your dog's water every day and clean his bowl a few times a week to minimize bacteria.
- Give your dog the right amount of water every day. The amount of water a dog needs every day is related to its body weight. A dog needs about an ounce of water per pound of body weight per day.[3] For example, an 8 pound dog will need a cup of water per day and an eighty pound dog will need 10 cups of water a day.
- Keep in mind that if your dog is physically active, pregnant, or nursing, then he will need more water.
- Provide extra water in hot weather. Provide your dog with a reliable source of clean, fresh water at all times, especially during hot weather.
- Provide unfrozen water in cold weather. Dogs cannot obtain the amount of water they need from eating snow or ice. In fact, eating snow and ice requires more body energy to melt the snow/ice which makes the dog's body require even more water.
- Add water to your dog's food if he is not drinking enough water. If your dog is a fussy drinker or you don't think he is consuming enough water during the day, you can try adding warm water to your dog's food until it reaches a stew-like consistency. You can also add wet canned foods to your dog to get more water in his system.[4]
- Just make sure that you provide fresh, clean water for your dog, even if you are feeding your dog a wetter food.
- Allow your dog to go potty often. A healthy adult dog must have the opportunity to relieve itself of urine every 6-8 hours.[5]Smaller dogs, puppies, or dogs with medical problems of the urinary tract will need to urinate more often, at least every 4 hours.
- If you are cannot take your dog out as often as he needs to be, you may want to consider installing a doggy door so that your dog can access an enclosed back yard, training your dog to use potty training pads in the house, or hiring a dog walker to walk your dog a few times a day.
- About once per week, observe your dog as it urinates. If the urine is a dilute yellow color, then his urine is normal. If your dog's urine is brown or red and/or if your dog has trouble urinating, then you should contact your dog's veterinarian right away.
EditManaging Your Dog's Nutrition - Choose a high-quality commercial dog food. Look for brands that list meat (not meat by-products) as the top ingredients on the labels or ask your veterinarian for advice. While it is not necessary to put your dog on a special diet to prevent kidney stones, you should still feed your dog a food that meets all of his nutritional needs. These needs will depend on your dog's breed, age, and other factors.[6]
- Talk to your veterinarian if you are not sure how to choose a food for your dog.
- Follow your veterinarian's recommendations for food. If your dog is prone to urinary tract infections or has been diagnosed with kidney stones in the past, then you will need to follow your veterinarian's food recommendations for your dog. Your veterinarian will recommend a special diet (including special treats) to help prevent a reoccurrence of kidney stones.[7]
- Foods that are high in calcium, magnesium, phosphorus and protein can cause kidney stones due to high mineral and protein content in the urine. In dogs susceptible to kidney stone formation, foods that are lower in these nutrients (while still providing adequate amounts) can help to prevent the formation of kidney stones and may even help to dissolve very small stones.
- There are many types of kidney stones. The most common ones are struvites (made up of magnesium-ammonium-phosphorus); calcium oxalate (made up of calcium) and uric acid stones (the type Dalmatians are prone to get.) There can also be mixed types. By analyzing your dog's urine, your veterinarian can determine which type of kidney stone your dog has and which food would be most appropriate for your dog to eat.
- Talk to a pet nutrition expert if you make your dog's food from scratch. If you feed a home-made diet to your dog, speak with a pet nutrition expert to make sure the vitamin and mineral levels in the diet are balanced. A mineral imbalance (especially calcium and phosphorus) can cause kidney problems for your dog.[8]
- Your veterinarian may also be able to advise you on how to meet all of your dog's nutritional needs with a home-made diet.
- Consider urinary tract health supplements. There are supplements that you can give your dog to help with urinary tract health. These include cranberry extracts, which are known to be beneficial for urinary tract health. Cranberries help prevent bacteria in the urine from latching onto the urinary tract lining.[9]
- These supplements are available in pill, capsule, or a chewable form to supplement your dog's regular diet. If your dog has a medical condition, ask your veterinarian before giving any supplement to your dog.
EditUnderstanding Kidney Stones - Recognize the signs and symptoms of kidney stones. In some cases, there are no obvious signs that a dog has a kidney stone. Kidney stones might be found during an x-ray or ultrasound for another condition in the affected dog. In other cases, there are certain clues or signs that might make a veterinarian suspicious that a dog has a kidney stone. These include:[10]
- Blood in the urine
- Frequent urination and increased drinking
- Recurring urinary tract infections
- Loss of appetite
- Vomiting
- Weight loss
- Difficulty urinating
- Lack of energy
- Painful belly
- Understand how kidney stones form. Kidney stones are the result of minerals found in the urine. The kidney is the urine formation organ in the body. In some cases, as the urine forms the minerals which should dissolve in the urine do not dissolve. Instead, they start forming into stones.
- These stones can be microscopic or large enough to fill cavities in the kidney. Regardless of size these are not normal and can potentially damage the kidneys.[11]
- Learn about the effects of kidney stones. Kidney stones can block your dog's urine flow and cause his kidneys to swell if the stone is too large. A blockage may result in serious illness and even death, so it is crucial to contact your veterinarian right away if you suspect that your dog has a kidney stone.[12]
- Kidney stones may also lodge in the bladder or start to form in the bladder itself. This process is more common and some dogs' bladders may fill completely with stones. No matter where a stone forms, it will cause infection and on-going damage to the kidney or bladder.
- Keep in mind that some breeds are more likely to get kidney stones. Certain dog breeds are more susceptible to kidney stones than others. It is good to know if your dog is one of these breeds so that you can check for symptoms more often.[13]
- Lhasa Apsos, Yorkshire Terriers, and Miniature Poodles are more susceptible to kidney stones made of calcium and oxalic acid
- Dalmatians, Yorkshire Terriers, and English Bulldogs. are more susceptible to kidney stones made of uric acid.
- Understand the common treatments for kidney stones. If you think that your dog has a kidney stone, you will need to take him to the veterinarian as soon as possible. Do not wait or the stones may become much worse. Treatments for kidney stones vary depending on the severity of the stones. Treatments may include medication, dietary changes, and even surgery.[14]
- Keep in mind that if your dog requires surgery, then he may need to be hospitalized until he recovers from the surgery.
- Some dogs prefer certain types of drinking bowls. Plastic bowls can sometimes cause a skin reaction and can harbor bacteria. Ceramic or steel bowls are easier to clean completely and are less likely to cause skin reactions.
- Regular exercise, like walks, helps to keep the body functioning in top form—even the kidneys. A daily walk also allows your dog ample time to relieve itself.
- If you do suspect your dog has a urinary tract issue, collect a urine sample in a clean, disposable container and bring it to the veterinarian's office for urinalysis.
- If your dog doesn't urinate during a 12-24 hour period, notify your veterinarian right away!
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How to Play the Violin Posted: 18 Sep 2016 01:00 AM PDT The violin is one of the most rewarding and beautiful instruments to play. The road to learning the violin is a long one, but with patience, discipline, and enthusiasm, these steps will help you start down the road to success with this storied instrument. EditGather Equipment - Purchase a violin. If you're just starting out with the instrument, there's no need to spend an excessive amount of money on a violin, but like most instruments, the quality of the violin generally rises as the price goes up. Expect to spend a few hundred dollars on a decent beginner's violin.
- Buy full size or 4/4, if you're an adult. The violin is a small instrument, but there are specially designed smaller sizes available. These are generally only intended for very young children, so be sure the violin you're buying is full size unless you're very small. You can ask the shop for a recommendation if you aren't sure.
- You can also ask the shop to measure your arm length to see what size violin you need. When holding the violin in the playing position, straighten your left arm and the tops of your fingertips should be near the top the violin scroll. If your arm is way past the top, the violin is too small.
- Buy from a reputable seller. Music stores stake their reputations on selling solid instruments that are free of obvious flaws and damage. As a beginner, you won't be able to coax a very pleasant sound from your instrument for some time, so flaws in privately sold violins might not be apparent to you until it is far too late to complain. Only buy from a store or individual you can trust.
- Check the accessories. Unless you have purchased the instrument only, your violin outfit should come with a violin with four strings, a bow, and a carrying case and most of the time a chin rest and rosin for your bow. In most cases, the person who sells you the violin will be happy to string it for you, which has the added bonus of double-checking to be sure the tuning pegs (the knobs at the scroll, or top, of the violin) are properly fit to the scroll. A hard case is important because violins are such delicate instruments.
- Strings come in three basic varieties: gut, which is expensive and difficult to take care of, but which offers a complex range of sound; steel, which is loud and bright but can sound scratchy, and synthetic, which is smooth, clear, and not as unpredictable as gut. Each type's name refers to the core material around which metal wire is wrapped to create the string. Most beginners should go with synthetic core strings, such as nylon core.
- The bow should be new, or newly re-haired. You can check this by looking at the hair of the bow (the fine, white or off-white fibers) and ensuring that the color is uniform and bright along its entire length. The hair of the bow should be a uniform width from end to end.
- Bows wear down over time. You can get your bow re-haired for a small fee at most music shops.
- Purchase other items. Nearly all violinists use a chin rest, which is a cheap, ergonomic piece of (usually black) plastic that clamps near the base of the violin and allows it to be held securely by your chin. This is usually attached to the violin when the violin is built. Aside from that, be sure you have some rosin (coagulated sap) for your bow, a music stand, and a book of beginner lessons or songs, preferably in a format that will open flat.
- Some violinists, especially beginners, also purchase a shoulder rest, which is a violin-width pad that sits on your shoulder underneath the violin and makes it easier to hold. Many people start with a shoulder rest and eventually remove it after a few years. If the violin seems to dig into your shoulder when you play, consider purchasing one.
- Fiddlers, if they sing while performing, often hold the violin in the crook of an arm while playing, with the butt resting against their shoulder. For them, chin rests and shoulder rests are generally pointless.
EditBasic Technique - Tighten the bow. Once you've set up your music stand and sheet music, open the case and remove the bow. The hair of the bow should be limp. Tighten the bow hair by turning the end screw clockwise until the space between the hair and the stick is big enough to pass a pencil through cleanly from tip to tip.
- The hair shouldn't be too limp, or too tight. The hair should not be parallel to the wooden part of the bow, but with the wooden part curving slightly toward the hair.
- Don't use your pinky finger as a gauge because the oil from your skin will transfer to the hair, which needs to remain oil-free to get the best sound from the strings.
- Rosin the bow. Rosin comes in two types, dark and light; either is fine to use, and neither is expensive. In warmer climates, light is preferred, dark is recommended in more northern areas. If you live in an unpredictable climate, it is advisable to have both. It's usually a rectangle of hard, translucent material in a paper or cardboard casing that's open on two sides. Grip the rosin by the papered sides and gently but vigorously rub it up and down along the length of the bow hair three or four times. The goal is to transfer some of the rosin "dust" onto the hair, making it stickier. You will need to rosin your bow about every time you practice.
- If you don't think the rosin is producing any "dust", take a key, sandpaper, a coin, or any other sharp object, and lightly scratch the rosin. You will see some light streaks if you scratched hard enough.
- Too much rosin will cause the bow to grip too well, producing a scratchy sound. If you over-rosin your bow, it's fine; it'll just take a few hours of playing to bring it back down to the correct level.
- If this is a newly haired bow, it may need more rosin than normal. Draw the flat side of the bow hair across a string to see if it makes a clear sound after three or four strokes of rosin. If it doesn't, add a couple more.
- Tune the violin. Set the bow aside for a moment and take the violin out of the case. The strings, in order from lowest tone to highest, should be tuned to G, D, A, and E. You can usually purchase an electric tuner from $15 to $20 dollars depending on the quality and brand. Major adjustments can be made with the tuning pegs in the scroll of the violin, but if the tone seems only a little bit off, use the tiny metal dials near the bottom, called fine tuners, to make your adjustments instead. Once you're satisfied, return the violin to the open case for a moment. You probably would like to have a professional tune your violin first.
Here's a mnemonic to remember the tuning order from lowest to highest: Good Dogs Always Eat - Rely on a tone whistle to find the correct notes, or simply look sound files up on the Internet.
- Not all violins have fine tuners, but they can be installed by a shop. Some violins may have only one fine tuner, on the E string. Some violinists can make do with just that one fine tuner, while others may prefer to get the rest.
- Grip the bow. Use the balance point to learn to hold the bow and even out the weight. When you think you are ready to grip the bow like a professional, start by gently laying the middle part of your index finger on the grip (the slightly padded part of the stick, usually a few inches above the tightening knob). Place the tip of your pinky on the flat part of the stick near the base, keeping it slightly curved. The ring and middle fingers should rest with their middle parts in line with the tip of your pinky, and their tips on the side of the frog (the black piece that connects the tightening knob to the hair). Your thumb should rest underneath the stick, at the front of the frog, near or on the bow hair.
- It might feel a bit uncomfortable at first, but over time, it will form into a habit.
- Your hand should be relaxed and loose, and somewhat rounded as if holding a small ball. Don't let your palm close or rest on the bow. This reduces the control you have over the movement of the bow, which becomes increasingly important as your skill increases.
- Hold the violin. Stand or sit with a straight back. Pick it up by its neck with your left hand and bring the butt of the instrument up to your neck. Rest the lower back of the violin on your collar bone and hold it in place with your jaw. To learn notes, however, you should hold it guitar style and buy a music book. It helps a whole lot.
- Your jaw, just under the earlobe (not your chin), is supposed to be resting on the chin rest. This helps prevent the instrument from sliding off your shoulder. (This is also why violinists on TV always seem to be looking down and to the right.
- Perfect your hand position. Place your hand under the top part of the neck and support the violin so that the scroll is pointing out away from you. Hold it steady by resting the side of your thumb on the neck, and allow your four fingers to arch over the fingerboard, which is the black plate covering the front of the neck.
- Beware of the "wimpy wrist" where your left wrist is touching the fingerboard. This, too, could turn into a habit if you don't fix it.
- As a beginner, your hand should be as far up the neck as possible while still allowing your pointer finger to come down on the fingerboard. Eventually, you'll learn to slide your hand up and down to reach higher notes quickly.
- Play the strings. Place the flat side of the bow hair approximately halfway between the bridge (the flimsy-looking wooden stand 3/4 of the way down the strings that keeps them tented) and the fingerboard, so that it's directly over the belly (front body) of the violin. Pull the bow along the string as straight as you can, parallel to the bridge, applying a small amount of pressure. A sound should emanate from the violin. Also, tilt the bow hair towards bridge at a 45-degree angle.
- More pressure equals louder sound, but too much pressure makes it scratchy. Light pressure should produce a continuous tone from end to end of the bow; if there are gaps, the bow needs more rosin.
- If you play too close to the bridge, it may also sound scratchy.
- Tilt the bow slightly toward the scroll and your tone will be more focused, producing a more professional sound.
- Practice playing open strings (G,D,A and E in order from top to bottom string). Open strings are simply strings played without fingertips on them. Rest the neck of the violin in the space between the left thumb and first finger. Hold the bow with your wrist, elbow, shoulder and contact point on the string within one plane. Change strings by raising or lowering the elbow to bring the bow to the proper height. Try short strokes of or so in the middle of the bow at first, then try half strokes from the frog to the middle and back again. Work your way up to full-length strokes.
- Short and long strokes are both important techniques for playing the violin, so don't feel as though you're wasting time practicing with short strokes.
- Continue practicing until you can play one string at a time without touching the other strings. It's important to develop control so you don't accidentally play a note you didn't want to play.
- Practice playing other notes. It takes a lot of practice to master the pressure and positioning required to get your fingers to produce clear notes on the fingerboard. Start with your strongest finger, the pointer finger. Using the tip only, press down firmly on the highest string (the E string). You don't need to use as much pressure as you do with guitar strings; a modest but firm amount is enough. Draw the bow across the E string to produce a slightly higher note. If you are holding the violin properly, your finger should naturally come down about half an inch below the nut (the top of the fingerboard), producing an F note.
- Add notes. Once you're able to produce a clear note, try putting the tip of your middle finger down a little ways below the pointer finger on the fingerboard. Keep both fingers down and play another, higher note. Finally, set the ring finger ahead of the middle finger and repeat the process. The pinkie is also used, but takes considerably more practice to master. For now, just worry about the other three fingers.
- Add strings. Try playing four notes (open, pointer, middle, and ring) on all four strings. Pay attention to the amount of pressure you need to produce a clear note on each one.
- Practice scales. A scale is a series of notes that ascend and descend in a pattern of steps (usually 8, sometimes 5) that starts at one note and ends at a higher or lower version of the same note. An easy (and useful) scale for beginners is the D Major scale, which starts on the open D string. From there, place your fingers down in order (as described above) and play each note: D (open), E, F sharp, G (which should be produced by your third, or ring, finger). To complete the scale, play the next highest open string, A, and then repeat the pattern on the A string to play B, C sharp, and finally D with your third finger.
- When properly played, the D Major scale (and in fact, every major scale) should match the sound of the famous "Do, Re, Mi, Fa, So, La, Ti, Do" singing scale. If you don't know what that is, look it up online or watch the musical film "The Sound of Music," which features a memorable and well-known song called "Do Re Mi" that explains it.
- If you can't seem to get the sound right, remember: place the first finger a finger's width from the nut, the second finger a finger's width from the first, and the third finger touching the second. If you prefer, ask your music shop or teacher to tape the finger positions for you with white tape, so you have a visual guide.
- Other scales, such as minor, harmonic, and even pentatonic (5-note) scales exist, but those can be studied, practiced, and internalized later.
- Practice every day. Start with a short time (15 or 20 minutes) and work a little longer every day until you reach an hour, or you can't find any more time to play. Serious violinists often practice for 3 or more hours per day; then again, many violinists at that level get money for playing. Practice as much as you reasonably can, and keep at it. Even sounding good enough to play a few simple songs can take months, but eventually, things will begin to come together.
- Loosen your bow after you're done.
- Clean off rosin buildup on your violin after every practice session. Use a clean, dry, soft cloth on the strings, on and under the fingerboard, and around the bridge. Don't wipe rosin off the hair of the bow.
- It will take years to master the violin so be patient.
- Be cautious about buying a violin online they usually are never very high in quality and may cost more than they are worth to repair.
- Use a metronome to practice if you are having trouble keeping the beat.
- You can also request for finger tapes at your violin store. It will make playing your violin much easier.
- Take lessons at least once a week. Even a short weekly lesson can provide invaluable feedback.
- If you don't have the money to buy a violin, renting is always an option. Rental violins should always come with a bow, case, and strings.
- Get a teacher, and you'll learn much faster. Check for teachers at local universities, community colleges, orchestras, and some high schools. If you don't find the best teacher for you right away, continue to look until you find someone you are comfortable with.
- If you know someone who plays a violin, ask them where they acquired the skill. You could attend the same lesson.
- If you want to just try out the violin or if you are not a full size yet, consider renting a violin. Most music stores allow you to rent an instrument instead of buying one straight away, and some let you pay monthly and can return it anytime.
- Before you start playing be sure you're devoted. Playing any instrument can cost lots of money and time but is extremely rewarding in the end.
- Ask a family member if they know somewhere you can get a violin and ask if they know somewhere you can learn to play. Try to get lessons locally to you if possible.
- You are not going to learn to play in a day it will take a few months to a few years depending on if you are teaching yourself or have a good teacher!
- Before purchasing your violin, make sure you are dedicated to learning so you don't waste your time and money. Remember, the average violin is five hundred dollars (for a good one).
- Never put your violin in your case with your shoulder rest on.
- Set a goal to complete by the end of your practice session.
- Keep your wrist straight when you play. This way you can reach the notes easier.
- Practice slowly, then work up to tempo. As in typing, eventually, your fingers will remember where to go by themselves.
- Use your hands by plucking (Pizzicato) then use your bow.
- Check to see if your bow is sliding on the violin strings. This means either your bow isn't tight enough, or you need rosin.
- NEVER pick up your violin by the strings. It is possible that the strings will break and damage the nut of violin.
- Do not leave your bow tight after playing as it can be damaged and bows can be very expensive.
- Always treat your instrument with great care. Don't drop it, throw it, or expose it to extremes of temperature or humidity. The same goes for your bow.
- If you aren't confident using the tuning pegs, ask someone with more experience (such as a teacher, shopkeeper, or violinist friend) to do peg tuning for you. It's easy to snap violin strings (especially steel core strings) by turning them too far on the pegs, which is both irritating and time-consuming to rectify.
- While the price of a violin generally reflects the tone, it does not always. Don't get scammed trying to spend the most money on a violin because you want the best possible sound. Many beautiful violins can be some of the least expensive.
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