| How to Become a Hotel Receptionist Posted: 31 Mar 2021 01:00 AM PDT The hotel receptionist's role is vital, as they are essentially the face of the organization, being customer-facing and in charge of booking reservations. Gaining office administration experience and maintaining a professional attitude can help you to land a job as a hotel receptionist. Take hospitality courses and learn a new language to impress future employers, and show potential bosses that you will provide excellent customer service by maintaining a network of contacts who can refer to your skills. [Edit]Learning About the Role - Understand the job description. While job duties will vary from hotel to hotel, there are certain responsibilities that all hotel receptionists are required to manage. These include handling reservations and cancellations, processing payments, answering guests' questions, taking messages, and answering the phone.[1]
- This role requires you to be able to stay calm during stressful situations. Practice both your patience and your negotiating skills.
- Prepare to work a variety of shifts. Working as a hotel receptionist will require you to work days, nights, weekends, and sometimes overnight. Be prepared to keep a flexible schedule.[2]
- Get a well-balanced education. A minimum of a high school diploma will be required, and some college courses or a degree in hospitality will also help you to become a hotel receptionist. Learning a second language, especially one used by tourists in the location that you wish to work in, can be advantageous.[3]
- Take English and communications classes that will provide you with the ability to communicate effectively both verbally and in writing.
- Take math and finance classes so that you are prepared to handle payments and money.
- Look for opportunities to take hospitality courses. Many community colleges and online schools offer classes in travel, tourism, and hotel management.
[Edit]Gaining Experience - Obtain experience in office and front desk functions. Work as a receptionist or an office assistant in a professional setting. This will help you learn skills required of a hotel receptionist.[4]
- Getting experience managing a front desk can make you a valuable candidate for hire. Remain on good terms with former employers so that they can provide you with a recommendation.
- Answer phones, greet customers, organize paper and computer files, and get experience managing multiple administrative functions.
- Maintain a network of contacts. Stay in contact with higher-ups and terminate your employment on good terms with your employer so that they can give you a personal reference when you ultimately apply to a hotel receptionist role.
- Sharpen your customer service skills. Working as a clerk in a retail setting, or a call center will give you the customer service experience that you need to become a hotel receptionist.[5]
- Provide answers to questions, resolve complaints, and maintain a cheerful, positive and professional attitude when dealing with customers.
- Learn various types of computer software. Stay up-to-date with technology, since you may need to learn new computer programs quickly. Many hotels will use specific databases and online reservation systems. Master a variety of programs so that you can be prepared for any software scenario.[6]
- Learn how to use the Microsoft Office suite, including Word, Excel, Access and Outlook. Become familiar with creating a spreadsheet of data, as data entry will be a key part of your job.[7]
- Put together a resume that reflects your education and experience. Make sure that you have an objective section, which highlights your goal of becoming a hotel receptionist. Emphasize your strengths and any relevant skills. Use a sample resume to format the document correctly.[8]
- Be sure to proofread your document for spelling errors and be sure to use professional language throughout.
[Edit]Finding a Job - Look for job opportunities. Check online job search websites such as CareerBuilder, Monster and Indeed. You can perform a search using specific keywords such as "hotel receptionist" and choosing the city or state you want to work in.
- Call hotels in your area. Call the front desk and ask whether they are hiring a receptionist. You may instead want to visit in person so that employees will be able to connect your face with your name.[9]
- Drop off your resume at local hotels where you would like to work. Ask to speak to the manager and introduce yourself. This will give you a chance to demonstrate your professional and positive attitude.
- Apply for the job. Once you find a job, send a resume and a cover letter to the hiring manager. Your cover letter should express why you are interested in the receptionist role, and which assets you have that you would bring to the role. If you have previous experience working as an administrative assistant or receptionist, be sure to mention that in the cover letter.[10]
- Keep your cover letter limited to one typed page, as the employer has to read through many applications. Use positive and energetic language to convey your personality throughout.
- Interview for the role. Wear professional clothes, and take note of what their current receptionist wears in order to maintain a consistent look. Hotels value their branding, so if the hotel uses specific colors in their logo and branding, wear those colors to the interview. Be prepared to answer questions about your past experiences and your future goals with the company.
- Following the interview, send an email thanking the interviewer for taking the time to meet with you. Hopefully, you will hear back within a week or two with news that you got the job.
- Learn a foreign language. Being able to communicate with international guests will help you get a job as a hotel receptionist.
- Talk to hotel receptionists about their jobs. A professional will be able to tell you about their daily work, and can give you some advice on how to become a hotel receptionist, and what skills and strengths you will need to develop.
[Edit]Related wikiHows [Edit]References [Edit]Quick Summary |
| How to Pack Boxes for Moving Posted: 30 Mar 2021 05:00 PM PDT While the prospect of moving into a new home is usually exciting, the thought of packing everything you own into boxes probably isn't. Fortunately, with a little organization and lots of boxes, you can get the job done efficiently. Just keep in mind that extra care and protection will be needed for valuable and fragile objects. [Edit]Getting Boxes and Sorting Items - Get various sizes of sturdy moving boxes based on your home's floor area. For the best results, pick new or lightly-used moving boxes—not just run-of-the-mill cardboard boxes—with a sturdy double-wall construction and no rips, tears, or stains. You can buy new moving boxes from a home improvement retailer, moving company, or office supply store. To figure out how many moving boxes of each size—small, medium, large, and extra large—to get, use your current home's floor area (in square feet or square meters).[1]
- If the area of your home is , estimate 15 small boxes, 13 medium boxes, 6 large boxes, and 3 extra large boxes.
- If the area is , estimate 21 small, 19 medium, 10 large, and 6 extra large boxes.
- If the area is , estimate 30 small, 29 medium, 15 large, and 9 extra large boxes.
- If the area is , estimate 35 small, 33 medium, 19 large, and 11 extra large boxes.
- Do not risk having your stuff fall out because you used heavily-worn, flimsy, or damaged boxes. A moving company may refuse to load any boxes that are ripped, torn, or stained.
- Set aside important stuff to pack in a "need right away" box. Collect items from around your home that you'll want to access immediately upon arrival at your new place. Your pile might include a few days' worth of towels, toiletries, clothes, and cleaning supplies, for example.[2]
- Consider this box a type of "overnight bag." Make it one of the last boxes you put on the truck so that you can easily find it and use it when you arrive.
- Divide your stuff into fragile and non-fragile groupings. Some people prefer to work room-by-room, while others like to make a single sorting and packing center. Either way, start by separating breakable (fragile) things from non-fragile items so the breakable stuff can be packed into specific fragile item boxes.[3]
- If you haven't already gone through your stuff and gotten rid of things you don't want to pack up, do so now. Get rid of as much clutter as possible before you start packing.
- Group similar fragile items together and do the same with non-fragile stuff. Working either room-by-room or in a central location, group all your books together, all your stereo equipment together, all your office supplies together, and so on. Other than fragile/non-fragile, there's no clear definition of "similar" here: group things together based on a combination of size, shape, sturdiness, function, and existing or intended location.[4]
- Set aside bigger boxes for lighter objects and smaller boxes for heavier stuff. Resist the urge to fill a large or extra large moving box with books or other heavy things. The boxes will fall apart, be too heavy to move, or both. Instead, set aside your small and medium boxes for heavier items and your large and extra large boxes for lighter stuff.[5]
- New, undamaged moving boxes are rated to hold at least , but it's best to aim for around or less per box.[6]
- Unfold and tape the bottoms of flattened boxes so you can fill them. With a folded box flat in front of you, push in on the creased sides to unfold it into a square. Put the box upside-down so the bottom flaps are up. Fold the 2 smaller flaps over, then fold the 2 larger flaps over the smaller ones. Stretch a long piece of packing tape along the crease where the flaps meet, running the strip of tape at least up the sides of the box as well. Add 2 more strips of tape over the first strip and the crease, but offset them slightly so that one is to the right and one is to the left.
- Press down on the tape to make sure it's firmly in place.
- 3 strips of good quality packing tape should be plenty. If adding even more tape gives you extra peace of mind, do one or both of the following: run 2 strips along the side seams of the box's bottom, creating an H-shape; run 2 strips of tape from corner to corner in an X pattern.
[Edit]Packing Non-Breakable Items - Keep the weight of each box at or below for the best results. Standard cardboard moving boxes of any size can hold or more. However, the heavier a box is, the harder it is to handle and the more likely it is to be dropped. Before you start filling a box, estimate the weight of the stuff you plan to put in it, then make any packing rearrangements as needed.[7]
- While professional movers are typically better at handling heavy boxes, it's still best not to go over about per box.
- Fold or roll clothing, linens, and bedding to pack in designated boxes. You might end up packing much of your clothing and linens in suitcases or duffel bags, or just leaving them in their existing dresser drawers. Sort everything that's going into moving boxes by type or function—bath towels, summer clothes, socks and underwear, etc.—and either fold or roll everything up. Nestle your stuff into the designated boxes without mashing or squashing it too much—especially if there are items you don't want all wrinkled![8]
- To pack items on hangers in boxes, buy special wardrobe boxes that have built-in hanging rails. You can get these anywhere moving boxes are sold.
- While it's tempting to use clothing and linens as padding material, it's best to use functional padding like packing peanuts, bubble wrap, and crumpled packing paper instead.
- If you're worried about your clothes and linens getting dirty or stained, line the insides of the boxes with packing paper, butcher paper, or craft paper.
- Put pillows in vacuum-sealing bags if you need to reduce the amount of space they take up.
- Put small and miscellaneous non-fragile stuff in clear zip-close bags. Instead of just tossing the contents of your desk drawer into a moving box, put your office supplies in labeled bags that you can then pack in the box. Do the same with cords, small tools, and other small items. It's also okay to have a bag or two dedicated to small miscellaneous stuff that really doesn't fit into any category.[9]
- Since you can see what's in them, labeling the bags is optional. Doing so may help you remember what goes with what, though. For example, if you have screws and bolts for mounting your computer monitor, label the bag "monitor hardware."
- Wrap solid non-fragile items individually in paper. It may seem like overkill to wrap sturdy items individually, but it's the best way to protect all of your stuff from breakage, scratches, tears, stains, or other damage. Wrap each item in one or more layers of packing paper, butcher paper, craft paper, tissue paper, or paper towels. Newspaper also works, but keep in mind that the ink can bleed onto clothing, books, or glass.[10]
- It's better to use too much packing paper than not enough![11]
- Line boxes for solid items with a single layer of packing peanuts. Skip this step for clothing, linens, and bedding. For solid but non-fragile stuff, add just enough packing peanuts to cover the bottom of the box. As an alternative to packing peanuts, crumple sheets of paper into balls and line the bottom.[12]
- Buy bags of packing peanuts or paper at an office supply store, post office, or hardware store.
- Put heavier stuff in first and fill in all the gaps as you go. Nestle the biggest and heaviest items intended for that box on top of the packing peanuts, then fit smaller items into any spaces between or around them. Don't forcefully wedge anything into place, though—nestle things in where they fit. Fill remaining voids with handfuls of packing peanuts or crumpled paper as you go, until you're about from the top. Add a layer of packing peanuts or crumpled paper to top off the box.[13]
- For example, place a few recipe books on the bottom, put a kettle and toaster on top of them, and then add bags of fridge magnets and spatulas to finish things off.
- Don't leave any substantial empty voids in the box. Otherwise, the box could cave in when you stack other boxes on top of it.[14]
- Secure the box top with packing tape to prevent it from spilling. Close the smaller flaps of the box top down, then close the larger flaps over them. Run a strip of packing tape over the seam between the closed flaps, making sure the strip runs down the sides of the box at least [15]
- Don't use masking tape to seal the top of the box, and definitely not to seal the bottom! Duct tape is also a poor choice, despite its strength, because it doesn't stick to cardboard as well as does packing tape.
- Label the box on 2 opposite sides after you fill it. Clearly write what the box contains and which room it will go to in your new home. You can write directly on the box with a permanent marker, or use securely-adhered stickers if you want to reuse the box. Write your full name as well, especially if you're using movers.[16]
- For example, you might write "books, living room" or "toys, Maddie's room."
- If the box contains random items, write "misc." or "miscellaneous." For example, "misc. kitchen supplies."
- Draw arrows pointing to the top of the box to indicate which side is up. This will ensure that the heavier objects stay on the bottom.
[Edit]Boxing Up Fragile Objects - Use smaller boxes and keep the weight well under . Smaller boxes are easier to handle and are less likely to be dropped and damaged. Keep the boxes lighter than you would a box of the same size with non-fragile items inside; instead of , reduce the packed weight to around or less if possible.[17]
- When getting moving boxes, consider picking up a few specialty boxes for fragile items that have, for instance, cardboard separators inside them. That said, it's definitely possible to safely pack fragile items in standard moving boxes.
- Line the bottom of the box with packing peanuts or tightly crumpled paper. Instead of adding a single layer of packing peanuts like you would with non-fragile items, make the layer in the bottom of the box at least deep. If you're using paper instead of packing peanuts, crumple it tightly into balls to provide better protection for your stuff.[18]
- As another alternative, line the bottom of the box with multiple layers of bubble wrap until it's at least thick.
- Wrap each fragile item in bubble wrap, packing paper, or its original box. If you have the box—with the interior padding—that the item came in, use it.[19] Otherwise, bubble wrap is better for thin, delicate objects like plates, china, or lamps. Packing paper is better for slightly sturdier objects like picture frames or lamp shades. Wrap each item completely, taping down the edges securely so the wrapping doesn't unravel.[20]
- For items that are hollow in the middle, like glasses, mugs, and vases, stuff a wad of crumpled paper inside.
- Do not use clothing or towels to wrap fragile items. These are not secure enough to prevent breakage.
- Pack flat items vertically and limit stacking in general. Don't, for instance, stack individually-wrapped plates or picture frames in the box. Instead, slide them in vertically and use extra cushioning from packing peanuts or crumpled paper to keep them upright and secure. Items like mugs and glasses should be packed upside-down, but don't stack them one right over the other. Rather, cut sheets of cardboard to make platforms upon which to set each layer of wrapped mugs or glasses, and fill in all gaps with packing material.[21]
- As with non-fragile packing, put heavier items in the box first. A heavier fragile object should never be pressing down directly on a lighter one.
- Fill all gaps and the top of the box with packing material. Use as much as packing material as you need to fill in all of the empty spaces. You do not want fragile items shifting around in the box. Leave at least at the top of the box to fill with packing peanuts, crumpled paper, or bubble wrap.[22]
- The box should be full but not bulging at the edges. Don't overstuff boxes with fragile items.
- Tape the completely-filled box with a strip of packing tape. Fold down the smaller flaps, then the larger flaps. Run a strip of tape over the seam between the flaps and at least down each side of the box.[23]
- If you're not 100% sure you packed the items securely enough, try this test: pick up the box and very gently rock it back and forth like a sleeping baby. If you feel any movement inside the box, you haven't used enough packing material inside!
- Write "fragile" on all 4 sides of the box. Use a broad, dark marker to write this in large letters. Include the contents of the box as well; for instance, "FRAGILE—plates" or "FRAGILE—sofa lamps." Draw arrows onto the box to clearly indicate which side is up.[24]
- When packing the truck, make sure that heavier objects are not placed on top of this box.
- Declutter your home about 3 weeks before your move by getting rid of things you don't need. Finalize your packing plan and start packing right after that so you have lots of time to get the job done. Aim to finish packing the night before moving day.[25]
- Consider putting Styrofoam plates in between breakable dishware for added padding.
- Cover liquid containers (like shampoo or detergent bottles) in bubble or plastic wrap instead of paper, then seal them in zip-close bags.[26]
[Edit]Warnings - If you fill a large box with heavy items, it will be too hard to move and may break apart. Put objects like books, computer parts, or tools in smaller boxes to help move them more efficiently. Large boxes are good for light items like blankets, clothing, or stuffed animals.[27]
- Don't pack furniture and major appliances. These should be wrapped in padded moving blankets. You can get these from a package store or a hardware store. If you hired a mover, they may do this for you.[28]
[Edit]Things You'll Need - Boxes
- Packing peanuts
- Packing paper
- Bubble wrap
- Packing tape
- Masking tape
- Permanent marker
[Edit]References __ |
| How to Have Consistent Handwriting Posted: 30 Mar 2021 09:00 AM PDT Having consistent handwriting, or handwriting that always looks the same, can make your handwritten documents stand out from the pack and be a personal style statement. If you've decided that you want your handwriting to be consistent, check out this handy list of ways you can work on developing it. There are some general guidelines as well as suggestions for how and what to practice. [Edit]Use the same pen. - Try different pens until you find your favorite and keep it on you. Buy or borrow different styles and brands of pens to try. Write a few pages with each of them to get a feel for how each one writes. Pick the pen that feels best to you and make that your signature writing tool![1]
- High-quality doesn't have to mean expensive. There are plenty of great pens out there that won't break the bank.
- For example, you could use a calligraphy pen, a gel pen, or a simple ballpoint pen. It's totally up to you and depends on the consistent style you're going for!
[Edit]Write at different angles. - Move the paper to find the position or angle that's most comfortable to write at. Turn the paper 45 degrees, 90 degrees, and everything in between to try out different positions. Choose whatever angle feels most comfortable to write at and always write with your paper turned that way.[2]
- If having the paper straight in front of you feels best, then by all means stick with doing that! It's just important to know that everyone writes differently, so if something else feels better, that's totally fine.
[Edit]Hold the pen with a relaxed grip. - This helps you write comfortably and not tire out. Grip the pen loosely between your thumb and index finger. Hold it steadily, but don't white-knuckle it! Rest the pen on your middle finger and check yourself if you notice you're gripping it really tightly while you write.[3]
- If you start gripping your pen too tightly as you write, it can change your handwriting or you can wear out and stop writing with the same pressure. A constant relaxed grip is one of the keys to consistent handwriting!
[Edit]Move the pen with your upper arm. - Maintaining a steady hand helps your writing look more uniform. Do your best to keep your forearm, fingers, and wrist still while you write. Instead, use the upper part of your arm and your shoulder to move the pen across the paper while you write, moving the paper up and away from you as you work your way down the page.[4]
- This can be especially helpful if your hand tends to get tired after writing for a while. Changing up the muscles you use to write with can make you tire out less quickly and keep your handwriting more consistent.
[Edit]Sit up straight when you write. - Good posture makes writing more comfortable. Try not to hunch over the page as you write. Maintain a good, straight posture, without being too stiff. Avoid writing in uncomfortable positions that cause you to hunch over, as this can hurt your handwriting's consistency.[5]
- Move anything on the surface you're writing on out of the way, so you can focus on maintaining a comfortable posture.
[Edit]Write every day to practice. - Set aside a few minutes every day to work on improving your writing. It could be in the mornings with coffee or in the evenings after work, school, and other responsibilities. Write whenever you have spare moments throughout the day if you're totally swamped.[6]
- Developing consistent handwriting takes a lot of time, dedication, and patience, but you can do it! It's important to know that even the best of "consistent handwriters" probably aren't as perfect as you think.
- Carry your trusty pen and a notebook with you wherever you go just for practicing your handwriting with.
[Edit]Find creative ways to practice. - Use worksheets, journals, and other writing activities to practice your handwriting. For example, download and print free handwriting worksheets, get a penpal and write letters to them regularly, or start a journal about your adventures. Try incorporating more handwriting into your everyday life by writing letters instead of emails when it's appropriate or by taking notes by hand instead of on your laptop.[7]
- You could also try a drill like writing down words from the dictionary one-by-one or look up creative writing prompts and start a notebook of short stories. Whatever keeps you engaged is great!
[Edit]Focus on control instead of speed. - Writing in a slow, deliberate way helps you develop a uniform style. Be patient and take your time on each letter and word to develop consistency, then gradually increase your speed as you improve.[8]
- The same way you tend to make spelling mistakes and other errors when you write fast, you're bound to make mistakes in your lettering, which hurt your handwriting's consistency.
[Edit]Use lined paper to develop neatness. - Writing between the lines forces you to maintain consistency. Write straight along the bottom line. Use the top line to help you keep the height of letters the same.[9]
- If you don't have line paper to practice, use a ruler to draw lines on a blank piece of paper. Draw the lines lightly in pencil and erase them later if you want consistent handwriting on a blank piece of paper.
- You can also place a piece of lined paper underneath a blank one, so you can see the lines through the blank page, to practice your consistency.
[Edit]Write each letter with the same slant. - Slant is the degree to which your letters lean to one side and can vary between letters. Check if you tend to write letters with a slant to the left or the right. Keep the degree of slant the same for every word. If you don't write with a slant, or you don't want to anymore, focus on keeping each letter straight up and down.[10]
- For instance, if you notice that the crossbar on your letter "t" slants at a certain angle, make sure you're writing your "f" with a crossbar at the same angle.
[Edit]Create letters that are uniform in size. - Letters of a consistent size make the whole document coherent. Write each letter with about the same height and width as the adjacent letters. Keep all words on a page the same size from word to word.[11]
- Naturally, you might write documents in smaller or larger font, depending on the size of the page, the line spacing, and other factors. However, the important thing is keeping the sizing of the letters and the words consistent at whatever scale you're writing at.
[Edit]Space out letters and words evenly. - Even spacing brings everything together nicely on the page. Use the bottoms of your letters to guide your spacing. Try to keep the space between the bottoms of each letter the same. Move your pen over the same distance from the last word every time you're starting a new word.[12]
- Try to keep internal spacing in letters the same, too. For example, keep spacing between the humps and lines in the letters "m," "n," and "h" the same and keep the spaces in the middles of letters like "o" and "a" the same.
[Edit]References |
| How to Trap a Soccer Ball Posted: 30 Mar 2021 01:00 AM PDT Trapping a soccer ball is a way of stopping the ball and gaining control of it quickly. As you gain more experience in soccer, trapping the ball becomes a very necessary skill used to gain an advantage over the other team. By choosing the right type of trap to use and knowing how to be ready for a ground or an air trap, you can impress your teammates and start playing soccer like a pro. [Edit]Learning Different Types of Traps - Use the inside of your foot to stop the ball with an inside trap. The inside trap is the easiest trap to master and also the most common one in soccer. As the ball moves toward you, rotate your foot toward the ball so that the inside of your foot is facing it. Let the ball hit you and move your foot back slightly, cushioning the blow and keeping the ball close to you.[1]
- If the ball is coming at you from an angle, you'll need to be able to adjust your footing on the fly. You should always trap the ball with the foot furthest from it, as this will be easier to rotate to face the ball.
- You shouldn't kick the ball as you go to stop it. The ball should move your foot rather than your foot moving the ball.
- Put your foot on the ball to perfect the step trap. Placing one foot on the ball will stop it completely, allowing you to get your next shot exactly right. As the ball moves toward you, lift up your dominant foot over the ball and let it hit your heel. The ball should bounce forward slightly and stop right in front of you.[2]
- If you bring your foot down on the ball just as it hits your heel, you can stop it completely. This is great for lining up a new shot to send the ball to the other end of the field!
- Getting the timing of the step trap perfect is the most difficult part. Keep an eye on the speed of the ball as it comes toward you to make sure you trap it. As always, practice makes perfect!
- Practice leaning back slightly for a chest trap. A chest trap will stop a ball coming toward your torso and drop it down toward your feet. Stay on your toes so you can move around, and keep your knees slightly bent as the ball comes toward you. Lean back slightly as the ball hits your chest, letting it bounce forward and land near your feet.[3]
- As with any type of trap or drill in soccer, getting the chest trap right will take a lot of practice. Find someone who can throw the ball to you and help you adjust to the movement needed to get the trap perfect.
- Make sure the ball hits you in the chest rather than in the stomach or abdomen.
- Don't push back against the ball as it hits you. A trap should keep the ball where it is rather than pushing it away.
- Lift your dominant leg to catch the ball for a thigh trap. A thigh trap involves bouncing the ball off the middle of your upper leg to gain control of it quickly. As the ball comes toward you, lift one of your legs so your thigh is slightly diagonal. Let the ball hit the middle of your thigh and begin straightening your legs as it falls toward your feet.[4]
- Make sure the ball hits in the softer part of your thigh near the middle. If it hits your knee it will bounce off at an unpredictable angle, and if it hits too high up on your leg you might catch it in your gut instead.
- Your thigh should be at an angle of around 110-degrees from your torso. This will help the ball drop in front of you, rather than bouncing straight up or sending it too far away.
- Stay calm when attempting a head trap. If you can move past your instinct to duck out of the way, trapping the ball with your head can stop more difficult shots. Stay on your toes to move into the path of the ball and let it bounce off of your forehead. The ball should lose momentum against your head and drop down in front of you.[5]
- This is a different move than heading a soccer ball. You should allow the ball to move your head back slightly, rather than pushing against the ball to move it forward. Heading the ball will send it far away rather than giving you better control of it.
[Edit]Trapping a Ground Pass - Move into the path of the ball. Keep your eye on the ball as it moves in your direction to work out where you can intercept it. Stay on the balls of your feet and move quickly so you can get into the balls path when it's coming your way.[6]
- Be ready to adjust your positioning if someone else touches the ball and changes its path. Don't assume you're in the right place to trap the ball until you've touched it.
- Choose between the step trap for more control and the inside trap for more agility. Both the step trap and the inside trap have their pros and cons, so you'll need to be able to quickly chose the right one for the situation you're in. Use the step trap if you have time to gain control of the ball, and go with the inside trap to get control of the ball more quickly.[7]
- If you've practiced both types of ground trap for long enough, you should be able to make this choice almost without thinking. Go with whatever seems best for the moment rather than overthinking what you'll do.
- Trap the ball and keep on moving. Using whichever trap you think is best for the situation, trap the ball to slow it down and bring it under your control. Once you've got it, keep the ball moving by passing it to a teammate or dribble it past the other team.[8]
- Don't worry if you make a mistake or have the ball taken off of you; it just gives you another chance to practice trapping the ball.
[Edit]Trapping an Air Pass - Anticipate where the ball will land and where you need to be. If the ball is flying through the air toward you, you'll need to be able to move quickly to where you think the ball will be. Stay on the balls of your feet and watch the ball as it travels. Focus on the arc of the ball and try to position yourself where you think it will land.[9]
- It can take some practice to be able to work out where you need to be to trap a ball. Don't worry if you don't get it exactly right the first time.
- It's always better to be behind the ball than in front of it when you're trying to trap it. If you're too far back to trap the ball in the air, you may still be able to trap it on the ground.
- Stand with your feet shoulder-width apart and lean back slightly. When you've found the right place to stand to trap the ball, get in a comfortable stance to intercept it. Keep your feet apart so that you can keep your balance. Lean back slightly to keep an eye on the ball as it comes toward you.[10]
- Over time, you should find yourself standing in this position naturally. If you're still learning, move into a stance that you're comfortable with - it's much better to be in the right place and looking at the ball than trying to get your stance exactly right!
- Trap the ball with your head, chest or thigh. Watch the ball as it comes closer to you and judge the height it will be at when you intercept it. Let the ball hit your head, chest, or thigh and move your body back softly to cushion its momentum.[11]
- If the ball seems too high to trap it with your head, take a step or two backward to get into a better position. Similarly, if the ball is too low for a thigh trap, you should either move forward to get a better position or move backward to attempt a ground trap instead.
- It's safer to move forward or backward to trap the ball, rather than trying to duck or jump to catch it. Ducking or jumping will likely make you lose control of the ball and your body.
- It might be difficult to focus on getting the trap exactly right if you're under the pressure of a big game. Try not to overthink it. Let the instincts you built up when practicing kick in to help trap the ball.
- Drop the ball toward your feet and follow its movement. The ball should bounce lightly away from you and fall toward your feet. Keep watching its motion and start moving in the direction that it's going. Once you have control of the ball, you can pass it to someone else or continue dribbling it toward the goal![12]
- Don't expect to be a master of one or all of these traps immediately. Have patience, keep practicing, and you'll be able to do them in no time.
- Try to take the ball out of the equation if you're having trouble getting it right. Practice the movements of your body before you get someone to kick a ball at you.
[Edit]References [Edit]Quick Summary |
